having issues building shocks (1st time kit builder)

[IPT]

hey guys I'm building the Wraith kit but RC stuff is pretty new to me in general. The only thing I've done with a shock is swapped a shock cap and that's about it.

I know there is not supposed to be any air in the oil (bubbles). If I fill it almost all the way with oil the shock shaft doesn't depress all the way (and once the oil is worked through does it mater if you fill with the piston pushed all the way in or pulled back all the way?). If I take some out it seems sluggish and doesn't rebound all the way out. I used the three hole piston if it matters.

I've tried to seat the cap insert (the white bubble like piece) well into the cap but many times I open the shock to rebuild and it is free in the upper tube. I tried just laying it on the body and screwing the cap on same thing happens. I've moved the shaft up and down to be sure all the air is out but sometimes it still makes some noise as I plunge it once it's all together.

I guess the real issue I do not know what a "normal" properly built shock is supposes to act like. Any input on building, tips, links, or anything else would be very much appreciated.

[djjiz]

I only let the shaft rebound .5 to .75 inches. Other than that you sound like you're on the right track

[tlee13]

I actually just built my wraith last night and had the same problem with the stock shocks not rebounding. I was told by a few guys that the stock shocks suck and get new ones.
im going to take my car to my lhs since my buddy works there and see if he can figure it out. Ill let you know if you dont fix it by then.

[Odd-M]

I tried for hours and hours with the same problem and gave them up. Never got them to work and from what I understand they will probably leak badly. They suck bigtime! Bought a set of Bigbores which was a JOY to bleed and mount up compared to this. Just fill up, install bladder in cap, compress some with cap screwed a few turns on to get the last air out, tighten cap and you are ready to go.
My SCX has the bladderless design, other than that the same design. These are suposed to have some air in them. Anyway they also leak badly, even standing ln the shelf before I wver used them. And they have a lot of play between shaft, piston and body. By far the worst shocks I've ever seen. I know someone actually like them, but I do wonder if those persons have ever tried anything else.

[IPT]

Hm, well I may use these temporarily. My B Day is coming up and the wife keeps asking what I want. I might get an 8 pack of the Traxxas Big Bores. I can use 4 on the Wraith and the other 4on my Stampede. Let me know how you make out tlee13.

[Odd-M]

I run standard kit springs with Slash rear Bigbores. Springs fit the shocks and seems to suit the weight well.

[tlee13]

So far not good, buddy doesnt work today and i dont have his number. Sucks. But i have put 2 full battery packs through my truck and ive notice its starting to lean and crawl like it actually has working suspension. Maybe they just need to be broke in. Idk man. Im using these shocks till payday, maybe by then they will be working or i can get my buddy to fix them when hes working. Sorry i couldnt be more helpful.

[djjiz]

What's the point of running so much rebound? I've always used the spring to do that job and the shock to control the movement.

[Odd-M]

If they are too stiff they will become better with time, as the oil leak out and you eventually will have something that actually works for a brief moment. When no dampening at all simply repeat process, fill em up and wait for the magic moment. Great!

Spending $50 on a set of new shocks that actually work properly without issiues is probably THE best upgrade I've done to date. If you are on a tight budget look at the cheaper Traxxas Ultra. At $16 a pair they will greatly improve your rig.

[IPT]

anyone know which Traxxas big bore model # to get? Looks like for my Stampede I need different lengths front and rear so the 8 pack won't work. The Wraith is the same length for all of them.

[Calderwood]

Green slime + correctly built kit shock = zero issues.

[Odd-M]

I'm not the most experienced, but I've built or rebuilt some shocks prior to these from Axial. The leakage might be better with Green Slime on the O-rings, but I'm certain mine where built correct according to the manual. The problem is to get the bladder to seat properly and find the correct amount of oil. Too much and they will be to stiff, too little and the shaft/piston wouldn't extend and the bladder would be succed back inside the shock body when i pulled it back. I tried all possible ways of bleeding them, draining a little drop of oil out of them each time, but never got them working. In my opinion they're just a nightmare.

Slash and Stampede: 2660 front and 2662 rear.

For a Wraith you could use both, depending on which ride height you want. Stock height would be 2662. To lower it some, very common, go with 2660. I decided to run 2662 with a droop kit to lower it.
Axial Wraith | Custom Shock Droop Kit | Scale RC Truck Parts Store! [WR-01 SDK] - $15.00

[lespaul02]

I'd you go with the traxxas shocks go with the ultras they have a bigger body than the big bores and they are cheaper to buy


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[IPT]

Originally Posted by Odd-M

I'm certain mine where built correct according to the manual. The problem is to get the bladder to seat properly and find the correct amount of oil. Too much and they will be to stiff, too little and the shaft/piston wouldn't extend and the bladder would be sucked back inside the shock body when i pulled it back. I tried all possible ways of bleeding them, draining a little drop of oil out of them each time, but never got them working. In my opinion they're just a nightmare. [/URL]

Yup, exactly the issue I had.

Originally Posted by Odd-M

Slash and Stampede: 2660 front and 2662 rear. For a Wraith you could use both, depending on which ride height you want. Stock height would be 2662. To lower it some, very common, go with 2660. I decided to run 2662 with a droop kit to lower it.
Axial Wraith | Custom Shock Droop Kit | Scale RC Truck Parts Store! [WR-01 SDK] - $15.00

Thanks for that info! Helps a lot.

Originally Posted by lespaul02

I'd you go with the traxxas shocks go with the ultras they have a bigger body than the big bores and they are cheaper to buy
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Really, are you sure? All the Stampede guys seem to upgrade from the Ultras it comes with (pretty sure) to the Big Bores. Maybe the Big bore is just better for serious bashing as that is what they (and I) do mostly with the Stampede. (edit: did some reading and it looks like the lure of the Big Bore is it's all aluminum construction and Ti shafts. I found a set of the Ultras off a Slash online $15 for all 4. Once I upgrade my Stampede to Big Bores I'll have 4 each of the long and short ones to experiment with.

Guess what I could do is buy the Big Bores for my Stampede then just poach the Ultras from it for my Wraith! Then I'll only need to buy two Ultras for my Wraith.

[Hatersauce]

Originally Posted by tlee13

I actually just built my wraith last night and had the same problem with the stock shocks not rebounding. I was told by a few guys that the stock shocks suck and get new ones.
im going to take my car to my lhs since my buddy works there and see if he can figure it out. Ill let you know if you dont fix it by then.

I did read somewhere to make sure you cleaned the Burrs off the three holed thingy(can't think of the name). Sometimes that can cause some sticktion.

[IPT]

Originally Posted by Hatersauce

I did read somewhere to make sure you cleaned the Burrs off the three holed thingy(can't think of the name). Sometimes that can cause some sticktion.

In deed. I had to sand them down a bit to get them to glide freely before I even thought about adding oil. Without oil they slid up and down in the shock body fine. It was really about the rebound and getting the correct amount of oil. Seems like me and several others were unable to find that happy medium. Either it was too much pressure and wouldn't even come close to full compression or too sift with poor rebound and the shock cap (soft inner part) kept getting sucked into the body.

[tlee13]

I fixed mine foday, if you flip the shock body upside down youll find the threads inside for the shaft carrier. I filled 30wt shock oil to the first thread line, scred the carrier in maybe 2i turns and bled the shock from there. With the shock shaft completely decompressed i tigbted the carrier all the way with a 10mmrustler box wrench. Then proceeded to put the spring on and botton spring holder. Repeated process with the other 3. They all work perfectly fine now.

[IPT]

so you're saying that but not fully screwing in the bottom piece when you compress the shock the extra oil will be displaced leaving you with the correct amount? When I get back to my build in about a week I'll give it a try.

[tlee13]

Originally Posted by IPT

so you're saying that but not fully screwing in the bottom piece when you compress the shock the extra oil will be displaced leaving you with the correct amount? When I get back to my build in about a week I'll give it a try.

Yes, screw shock cap hand tight. Then the bottom shock carrier 2 turns. Decompress shock shaft then tighten with 10mm box wrench. After tightening shaft should compress 3-4mm out then clean up install spring and spring bottom and repeat for the other shocks.

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[lespaul02]

The only benefits the big bores have are the coated shafts and the aluminum body and caps. If you need new caps or body's STRC makes adjustable aluminum body's and caps.


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