Clearance and bumper questions....

[KBR97]

What are you guys doing about clearance as far as the servo, drag link, front bumper, front chassis? If i push the front suspension down all the way the chassis hits the top of the servo case before the shocks bottom out. Seems like the bottom of the bumper also hits the drag link a little.

I'm thinking about making a small stubby bumper (typical jeep stubby) to mount to the lower bumper posts and then removing the uppers. This way when I put my new jeep hood on I'll have full view of the grill, and no hacking. Anybody have a similar bumper? I tried searching for a vendor that sells something like that but all the bumpers seem to have some sort of integrated hoop.

[JDIRCC]

I noticed the same problem at first. i chopped my bumper back a decent bit and chassis mount the servo with panhard kit from vanquish. if you bottom it out it still makes contact but I'm running 120mm integy shocks as of now on mine with a droop kit and mine only hits if i take a big droop off or jump.

[ZippoMan]

I just added 4 spacers which extended the bumper out! I had the exact issue even with my servo mounted back with the skinnier mounts. The bottom of the bumper would hit my servo arm before I spaced it.

[bilinvic]

Originally Posted by ZippoMan

I just added 4 spacers which extended the bumper out! I had the exact issue even with my servo mounted back with the skinnier mounts. The bottom of the bumper would hit my servo arm before I spaced it.

Great idea, I will be doing the same. Thanxs.

[wraithchild]

Went with the Dinky rc servo mount,,

[Odd-M]

There's two different servo mounts suplied with the kit. You'll have to use the thicker one for it to clear the bumper.

[KBR97]

Thanks for the ideas, I'll look into all of of them.

[Markeje]

I run the VP Chassis mount and Panhard with Gmade 103's. I still bottom out at the drag link and axle truss before the suspension is completely compresses. I wish I knew a way around this.
It's not that I don't have good performance or plenty of travel. It's just principal!

[ZippoMan]

Originally Posted by Odd-M

There's two different servo mounts suplied with the kit. You'll have to use the thicker one for it to clear the bumper.

In my case the thicker and thinner did not allow clearance. The skinnier mounts set the servo back farther but still not enough. Hence the spacers to push the front bumper out about 3mm maybe 4mm. I didn't measure the spacers. They were just a bunch that came in the kit.......probably for shock mounting but good enough for bumper extensions. Use longer screws if you have to when adding spacers.

[bilinvic]

The spacer certainly made a difference in full suspension travel with out the bumper hitting the servo arm bolt now. I bored out one end of each of the four spacers to fit the over the male protrusions so make somewhat of a seamless transition and maintain some integrity. I used longer SS Hex head bolts to snug them back up.

Thanxs again ZippoMan.

[Trembley]

Exactly what I am trying to do....did you use a dremel or hand held drill. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

[big daddy smokes]

The WERTY made bumper doesn't have that bottom brace, gives you all kinds of room for the servo to move.

[68_f100]

Originally Posted by Markeje

I run the VP Chassis mount and Panhard with Gmade 103's. I still bottom out at the drag link and axle truss before the suspension is completely compresses. I wish I knew a way around this.
It's not that I don't have good performance or plenty of travel. It's just principal!

Same here. Not much can be done with this setup. Maybe a servo mount that raised the servo in the chassis.

[meatmonkey]

I made a new servo mounting plate to tuck the servo back until there is less than a mm clearance between the back of the horn, and the front of the truss. You have to flip the servo over so the horn will clear the diff cover. This also helps lessen the operating angle of the drag link which theoretically increases mechanical efficiency.

I couldn't bring myself to lessen the 90+* approach angle by spacing the bumper out, even though that would be much easier.

[bilinvic]

Originally Posted by meatmonkey

I made a new servo mounting plate to tuck the servo back until there is less than a mm clearance between the back of the horn, and the front of the truss. You have to flip the servo over so the horn will clear the diff cover. This also helps lessen the operating angle of the drag link which theoretically increases mechanical efficiency.

I couldn't bring myself to lessen the 90+* approach angle by spacing the bumper out, even though that would be much easier.

Any pics?

[maslin]

Move it back till it won't go back any more. Had to smooth out the horn and shorten up the bolt.

[Digital]

Thanks for the idea Bilinvic, works perfectly

[meatmonkey]

Sorry, no pics. Maslin's pics show the basic idea of moving the servo back to clear the bumper. He gets away without flipping the servo because his servo horn is shorter and thinner profile than the robitronics I am running.