Holmes HObby 3100kv heating up issue

[JDIRCC]

I recently purchased new 3100kv from HH to go back to brushless power on my wraith. I soldered my wire leads and installed my sensor wire. Powered up and reset my MMP to smart sense and all and I test ran. Im only getting like 3-5 mins of runtime before the motor and esc are getting hot. I have run 13.5t novak brushless motors and others before and never had my MMP fan come on or been able to feel the heat through the case. So any suggestions? I am factory diff geared and 32p 56t 14t in the tranny. so I thought my gearing was fine considering it worked fine with other brushless setups. Could it be the wire used for the leads or my wiring connectors used between my esc and motor. I used regular 10ga copper strained wire instead of copper clad but I didn't think that would be an issue. and i use male female blade style connectors in between them.












I also noticed that sometimes I can punch it and it goes full power and sometimes it lags. and also on hill climbs some times it will be full power and sometimes it barely pulls itself. I have tuned my MMP many times before so I don't think its there. But any input will be greatly appreciated. id really like to get this fixed because I have always enjoyed the HH motors and was really hoping to bash and crawl with this one as well.



























Thanks in advance

[ROLANDROCKSHOP]

what battery are you using?


sounds like something is bound up if it heats up that quick..

[JDIRCC]

Sky 4000mah 2s lipo. Could I have the pinion and spur meshed to tight? I didnt think that would cause overheating though. What else do you think would be binding up?

[Calderwood]

You're running zero timing and cheat turned off, correct?

[JDIRCC]

cheat is turned off and ill check the timing but I think its at zero timing. I usually don't change timing.

[JohnRobHolmes]

The TrailMaster BL runs a bit hotter than other brushless motors because of the air gap. It also has a lower resistance for an equivalent KV so the ESCs and batteries will heat up faster if you are constantly punching the throttle. We are changing some things to make the motors run cooler, but hotter ESCs and batteries will be normal because of the performance changes over standard roar spec motors.

Actual heat numbers would be useful to troubleshoot whether its overheating or just running hotter than you are used to. If it is under 160f on the can you are OK.

[JDIRCC]

Ok thanks John. Do you think if it is operating at and under the correct temps (which I assume it is considering it hast shutdown) that my esc will be ok? The MMP have temp shutoff don't they? And appreciate the input. I love yalls products!!

[JDIRCC]

So I pulled it down just to double check myself. I took off my spur cover and noticed a little bit of metal shavings built up and that it was relatively hard to turn the spur and pinion. I pulled the pinion off and checked it out and it looks ok. The RR spur though has clear signs of wear in between the teeth. Maybe I just had it too tight and didn't check myself because I was in a hurry to get it back together. And one thing I noticed, the pinion feels smoother when I flip it opposite of how it should be ran. Since its set in place by set screw, it shouldn't matter how its mounted correct? The pinions and spurs aren't helical correct?

[JDIRCC]

ok so I did a re test and it does ok temp wise but it still has pitchy throttle response and occasionally will just lose all throttle for a sec. And I seem to be eating up 2s batteries. maybe its the battery im using is trying to lose a cell. I put a 3s in it and had no issues at all no over heating no lag. Just a broken locker:-/ too much finger!!!

[Markeje]

I'd day you found the problem!

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[JDIRCC]

Originally Posted by Markeje

I'd day you found the problem!

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Lol. Id say!!! Im just worried that 3s is too much for it. Considering it says ita o ly rated for 2s

[ROLANDROCKSHOP]

with time you will learn to wheel with the 3s battery.

yea its easy to watch the dirt fly..


Tame that throttle finger and your electrics will thank you for a long time.

Brushless setups need that extra juice..

Ive overheated more on 2s batteries than 3s..

[JDIRCC]

I def agree. It did fine for a bit but now if I do any kind of full throttle action at all within in seconds its heated up. Battery wires, esc wires, motor and all get hot. I took off and re did some connections that werent up to par and it still the same. And when it binds up while crawling ot shuts the throttle down like the motor is working too hard. Ive checks and re checked the lash between pinion and spur and it seems fine but is still.very difficult to turn by hand. But if I remove pinion trans spins freely. I noticed this tightness at first when I put this motor in but I though it was normal. Should it be this tight or fairly easy to rotate?

[JDIRCC]

And this all may be normal like John had mentioned above and me just not be use to it. Im just worried about frying my motor and esc. And im alsowanting to get the best performance out of the motor with no little issues.

[ROLANDROCKSHOP]

can you take a screen shot of all your settings via castle link?

[JDIRCC]

Originally Posted by ROLANDROCKSHOP

can you take a screen shot of all your settings via castle link?

I can take some pics on my phone and email or text em to ya? I don't bother with going through the stuff to post pics on here. well at least not yet.

[Calderwood]

Originally Posted by JDIRCC

I can take some pics on my phone and email or text em to ya? I don't bother with going through the stuff to post pics on here. well at least not yet.

Photobucket.com - its not that hard.

[JDIRCC]

[JDIRCC]

sorry for the size. according to the editor that's 600pixel

[dna4engr]

Settings don't look too bad. Only thing I would do different is put the sensor setting to sensored only vs smart sense. Don't know if that will help the temp issues or not.

Have you measured the temperatures at all with a temp gun? The stopping while in the rocks leads me to believe that the esc is thermally shutting down to protect itself.

May want to pm winnerone23 or szczerba as they have both run this motor in different types of rigs.

Next thing you can do in the interim is put a smaller pinion on that motor. Reduce the gearing as the 4:1 ratio at the spur/pinion is pretty darn high. Start as small as you can find to see if the temp issue goes away then step up the ratio until you see it getting warm again.

Holmes theory is always been to gear down and volt up. So a 9-10t pinion with 3s might be perfect.

Dna