Is a BNIB unopened Wraith supposed to be missing spare parts?

[Sarra]

I just bought a Wraith RTR from my local hobby shop. Right out of the box, I noticed that there were missing parts, the steering is horribly out of adjustment, and there are some really odd issues cropping up that I wasn't expecting.

For one, the insulation on the connectors hooking the motor to the ESC have been cut, and the connectors themselves are quite loose in eachother. So loose, that when the rig flips over, and I turn it back upright, there is no electrical connection between the ESC and the motor until I fiddle with the connectors.

I can actually see parts missing from the spare parts bags, and they're sealed. This thing came with a servo horn missing from the spare parts bag.

So, I'm starting to wonder, was this rig run before me, and someone put it back in the box, or do the assembly techs use parts off the spare parts trees to assemble it? This wouldn't make sense to me, as there are 4 of the front light covers on the rig, and 4 spares in the package, none missing.

This is my first real RC rig, and I'm fairly disappointed with it. I'm having to fix stuff that it looks like someone else has messed with already.

I can provide pictures of the unopened, sealed spare parts bags with missing replacement parts if needs be.

[3stage]

Those are the remainder parts from what they used to build the car.. that is normal. Note the different spline count servo horns included (see # stamped on horn), the 25 spline would be installed on the car, the rest (23 & 24 spline) would be in the bag.

Use the controls on the transmitter to center the steering and adjust the servo throw range. Keep the throw range to a safe limit.

The connectors between the motor and ESC are always trouble and of poor quality! Replace with a Deans connector. Do the same for the battery connection! Use Deans connectors.

Those are all 'normal' issues that need to be sorted out with the RTR cars. It's how they try to keep the price down on them. Don't look at it as negatives, it just encourages you to spend time working and upgrading the rig.. which is a huge part of the joy in owning an RC!

Also note, that plastic servo horn WILL strip out on you very soon. Purchase an aluminium clamping type horn (25 spline). Axial and a few other companies sell them. Go easy on the motor for the first few runs to break in the brushes, many owners tend to burn out their motors quickly. I have 6 months on my original motor and it is still running strong.

Feel free to ask if you have any other questions.

[3stage]

Keep reading through this forum, there is sooooo much information here on these RCs, look at what others have built and you will see the potential they all have. I own a Wraith RTR as well and love it! Spent many nights tinkering with it also.. would recommend a nice precision tool kit for them as a starter.

Amazon.com: Sourcingbay 45 in 1 Precision Screwdriver Tools Set for Rc Pc Mobile Car: Automotive

[Sarra]

Ah, okay.

The original was trashed because the steering throw was off. I purchased and installed an aluminum replacement today, and re-trimmed the steering.

I tore down my car to the chassis, leaving the electronics installed. I found one of the screws that holds the battery trey in was completely stripped. I had to drill it out.

I have a background of fixing cars. Mostly Subaru and BMW's. So, this isn't overly complicated for me, I'm just taking my time.

I did do a temporary fix for the connectors between the motor and the ESC. I pinched the female connectors gently with a pair of pliers, just enough to remove the gap in them, and plugged them back in. They are quite snug now, and my no power issue is fixed, at least for now.

I'm looking at relocating the battery to under the hood, but I want to retain the original 4 front lights, so I'm going to plan out the wiring for those before going further. The hood is on, the rest of the body is currently off.

Thanks for telling me about the spare parts. That makes me feel a lot better.

I went up to a rather challenging area today, lots of boulders, steep hills, and an open dirt parking lot. I did a lot of crawling, some cookies, and broke the roof. So, it was pretty much a mix of trail running, crawling, and bashing, all in one small area. Now I'm torn on how to build this, do I want to go crawler, trail runner, or basher?

Maybe I'll get another raise at work, then I can just buy two more trucks.

[3stage]

^ and that's how the addiction begins!! lol

Some small advice is to enjoy it in stock form for a while, then upgrade piece by piece.. that was you get to appreciate the benefits (or downsides) each upgrade will bring. I say build a 'do it all' vehicle! That's basically what I'm aiming for with my rig.. It may not be the best at each, but at least I could enjoy it all..

[Sarra]

I flipped the lower shock mounts, and the rear upper mounts. I worked today, otherwise I would have picked up a cable to extend my wiring so I could relocate my ESC and radio.

I did relocate the power switch to the hood. Black switch on a black hood = fairly stealthy. Not worried about damaging it, or turning it off during a roll. I can replace the switch if it gets damaged, and if it gets turned off, I can just turn it back on.

I do like the lower CG. Doesn't roll as easily when bashing. Tomorrow, going to go up and crawl/trail some more, then in the afternoon, I'll move the radio/esc, and put the battery up under the hood. I may pick up new connectors for the motor... We'll see.

[CapnSwagga]

After putting the battery under the hood you will notice a huge diffrence

Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk

[3stage]

^ agreed, battery under hood makes a big difference! Not sure if you are aware, never leave the ESC plugged into the battery, even when switched off, it will continue to draw power and will damage your battery. The switch could be cut off, wires bridged and insulated. It really isn't required to be honest. Most experienced guys throw it away..

[Sarra]

I got a 5k mAh (why aren't they just 5 amp batteries? 5,000 milliamps is 5 amps... Just saying) NiMH. I'd have gone lipo, but honestly my LHS was sold out of them (in fact, they had a grand total of one battery left, the one I got!) and they're a bit expensive for me.

I am considering buying some connectors and wiring two batteries up in parallel.

I removed the interior, and most of the body (the hood is still on it, otherwise it's naked for now). The battery is currently temporarily secured to the bottom of the interior of the truck, right behind the motor/trans. Just moving it there, I noticed a huge difference, and even more when I moved the suspension mounts to lower it.