My Wrait Kit

[Axial Rose]

Rule #1: For anyone who has the Wraith kit, please go here (LINK) and study the photos and descriptions because the so-called printed "instructions" that come with the kit totally suck.

[Axial Rose]

I could use a little help building my Wraith kit

On page 17, step 10, the directions indicate making two drive shafts, each using one part #5 (male shaft, medium length) and one part #1 (female shaft, long)

This does not go along with the photo (posted below) on the Axial web page (link) which apparently shows assembly of the drive shaft using different length parts.

Or, am I looking at the photo wrong and both male and both female drive shafts are the same length?

What's the correct way to build the drive shafts?

Also - with the female shafts at the axles and the male shafts closer to the motor transmission, is there really a need to have the "female sleeve mod?"

Thank you

[Axial Rose]

Based on (the really good) videos by Fast Eddie, I think I have created the two drive shafts correctly.

I'm fairly certain I screwed up the installation of the C Hub Carriers &/or the Steering Knuckles.

Honestly, I can't see the instructions very well - the shaded images, even with bright light, are difficult for me to read. Compared to the Tamiya 801xt I just built, the Wraith instructions leave much to be desired.

Thanks

[Nix951980]

On the rear shaft use the longest male and female parts, the rear drive line is longer then the front.

[Axial Rose]

Originally Posted by Nix951980

On the rear shaft use the longest male and female parts, the rear drive line is longer then the front.

Will do - thank you!

This seems like an important build step - is this detail included in either Axial's directions or anywhere else?

Thanks again,

AR

[Nix951980]

Yeah, I had the same problem, I didn't have a kit but I did convert 2 Ridgecrest to Wraith's, on the ridgecrest the drive lines are the same length, thankfully the parts tree came with the right parts for the conversion.

[Axial Rose]

Even though I was complaining about their instructions, I think it's fair to mention that I do enjoy seeing the engineering and design considerations which make up this kit - overall, it's very impressive.

I'm not going to let a few minor annoyances blot out the big picture which shows a pretty awesome little machine.

I'm looking forward to finishing this build and getting on the rocks again soon.

[Axial Rose]

If this chassis works, I'm going to have to reduce the width by ~3/4" overall

Thinkin about just building it stock and running it like that for a while first

I pretty much suck at custom stuff

The photo below shows a temporary fitting - more fasteners will be added

[3stage]

Lol, epic pic!

[Axial Rose]

Dang - I love buildin

[Nix951980]

Sweet! lookin good.

[Axial Rose]

The color is florescent orange - and it's bright, bright orange - the photos don't show the actual color

I have a ton more work to do - I just wanna get it rolling

And for the record, I really hate painting and trimming a body - jus sayin

[DTB1]

Looking good. For the drive shafts I used 2 of the shorter female ends and cut the attachment point off of the 1 male end. The I drove a 1/4" brass rod into the hollow male section. What you end up with is a very strong drive shaft that doesn't cost much. Total parts are 4 female short sections and 2 male long-medium sections.

[Axial Rose]

I sold this machine about a month ago - big mistake

So I bought another kit today - will post build of Wraith #2 in a week or two

My next one will be setup a little better for crawling - using an 87/14 spur/pinion with 35T motor and . . . had to go back to the Super Swampers and Hitec HS-7954SH for steering.

Going with yellow and black this time - that florescent orange hurt my eyes.

[Axial Rose]

Isn't the cover backwards in this illustration?

[Axial Rose]

. . . Wraith #2 . . .

Axles done

Is thread lock really important where the axles fit into the diff lock?

I did put thread lock in there because the instructions say to do it but I really don't see the need for it - as far as I can tell, the ends of the axles shouldn't move around with or without thread lock

I bought two crawlers last week and I just couldn't do the RTR version for either one:

• I enjoy building and knowing it's put together correctly
• The kit comes with better quality components
• By adding the motor, esc, and servo of my choice I'm avoiding low quality components and the lousy performance that often comes with them
• I can make them whatever color I want
• Building them forces me to know them much better so when maintenance, repairs, or upgrades are involved, I'm more likely to know what's going on

[Axial Rose]

. . . finished shocks . . .

[DTB1]

Looking good, I see that you have you link mounts setup for a higher ride height. What do you plan to use this wraith h for?

I didn't thread lock my axles in.

[Axial Rose]

Originally Posted by DTB1

Looking good, I see that you have you link mounts setup for a higher ride height. What do you plan to use this wraith h for?

I didn't thread lock my axles in.

I want this one to be a dedicated crawler so I reckon I should go ahead and flip these link/shock mounts upside down right?

[DTB1]

I would flip them over from what they are in the pictures. I personally would rather have a lower cog and scape the bottom as flip over. Also it will give you a slightly longer wheel base which helps for the hills.