JWILL's Wraith build

[Jwill]

Well just got my stock used wraith roller in the mail and shortly thereafter spent a bunch of money. Here is a component list of the electronics that will be going in it. There's more but y'all will have to wait also pics will be coming. I will be going for more of a scale build than all out performance.

Motor- Tekin Pro4 4000kv
Esc- Tekin RSX
Servo- Savox SV-1270TG "Monster Torque"
And to control it I will be using my Airtronics MT4.

Started taking it apart in preparation for parts installation.


My shock mounts are the only thing to show up so far.


More parts.



Well I have run into my first problems the hex adapters I ordered are the wrong ones and I forgot to order the drag link.

[PileDriver]

Ooooops! Great start anyway.

[Z0MB13]

Oh it added up quick. I'm close to the end of my *cough* budget build poison spyder wraith.

[Jwill]

Got my beefy top shaft, rr 32p slipper and hot racing steel tranny gears installed. However had a few issues the rr slipper didn't come with a washer to distribute the slipper spring pressure to the outside bearing race. Second the hot racing gear doesn't fit on the beefy top shaft cross pin.

Picked up a set of RRD 110mm scale shocks.



I'm trying to figure out my battery mount I'm kinda leaning towards mounting it in the stock location I would like to put it up front but I'm not sure how best to go about it I don't want my lipo moving around. I wish someone made a mount to put it straight down the middle up front like the rear mount.

[altd896]

Shouldn't really need a washer under the spring, the spring should press directly on the bearing in the centre of the spur.



For front battery mount, grab the stock tray, lop it in half length ways, tip it on it's side, use stock velcro straps in the stock slots to retain battery.
Mine here

[Jwill]

I'm using the stock slipper spring which isn't as large as the one pictured so it rides in the inner race which will lead to failure of the bearing eventually. I like your idea for the battery mount I will look into that. What length brace do you have between the front shock mounts?

[altd896]

I can't claim the battery tray idea, I found it on here

The strut between the towers is 54 or 55mm, it's just a standard axial piece, sorry can't remember the part #. Same length works in rear also, just need to change out coarse thread shock screws for fine thread m3

[_m_urph]

I also did a battery forward using the stock battery tray similar to @altd896. I can fit a 5000 mAh 3S hardcase LiPo in mine. I only used one of the stock battery straps.

[Jwill]

Got my hex adapters and drag link in the mail soooo...... Now just gotta see what breaks and go from there.




Got my "Da Tray" and "Da Cover" installed I'm pretty happy with how it came out.




Installed hd under drive gears in the rear also picked up a dinky link front axle truss. Had to do a little modification to get everything the way I wanted but I'm pretty happy with it so far. I also braced the front and rear using the 7x55 mm axial spacers.



Max travel achieved. However I need to flip the servo and move steering linkage to other side and look a getting custom lower link mounts made.


I flipped the rear axle to reduce chassis role due to torque.

A pic of some wheeling we did today.

[jwall046]

What is under drive gearing?
Nice build too.

[Jwill]

It's where you make the the front and rear axles rotate at different speeds. An example would be the the rear tires make one rotation while the the front tires make 1.5 rotations for the same amount of motor revolutions. Which makes the front pull the truck and gives more steering.

[jwall046]

Awesome!
I need all new gearing too.
Can I ask the gears recommended?

[Jwill]

Here are the gearing set options:
36t-14t Over drive
38t-13t Stock
43t-13t Under drive

I'm running stock front and under drive rear. As a note running these combinations will add extra stress on the drive train but will give better performance for increased front end traction.

[jwall046]

Cool!
I'm building as solid of a vehicle as can for trails and some crawling events.
Thanks for help. I'll review more when ready to buy gears too.

[_m_urph]

Originally Posted by Jwill

I flipped the rear axle to reduce chassis role due to torque.

I've been trying to come up with a way to reduce the chassis roll, too. I was considering a rear sway bar setup. How'd the axle flip work out for you? Any concerns with driveshaft binding at extreme axle angles? I may try this too.

[Jwill]

I am happy with the results, there is no binding that I can tell.

[Jwill]

I received these in the mail today. I replaced the bottom mounting screws and counter sunk them, which I think they should come this way but its not a big deal. I have also installed beef tubes front and rear but it was straight forward so I didn't post a pic. I have some more parts which should be in this week and I will post a pic once they're installed or if I see anything of note. Since my rear axle is flipped the rear skid will not fit so I plan to cut it and weld it back together to make it work (That was a duh moment or I would have requested it to be made that way.)

[_m_urph]

I've been thinking of making some of those out of some scrap steel that I have in the garage.

[jwall046]

Might be dumb. What are they?

[Jwill]

DMG axle skids.