SDheavymetal's Wraith

[SDheavymetal]

Now that our club has a "Run what you brung"and I needed a Wraith. The truck was pretty stock. It had a upgraded servo and a 35t motor.

Axial diff gear HD 43/13 front and rear
Castle Castle Creations Mamba Max Pro
Tekin ROC 412 3100kv 4 pole
Vanquish upper and lower links
Vanquish C hub's and knuckles.
Hitec servo 7955tg
Castle BEC
Locked Up RC front and rear spools
Locked Up RC slipper eliminator to get room for the battery lower and back
Grease I use is Diamond Glide Nano Grease pro Nano Grease Pro EXTREME




I ordered Vanquish C hub's and Knuckles. Then ordered Locked up spools and slipper eliminator kit. I also ordered the Axial 43/13 gears.



Installed the extra bearing in the top of the trans. I drilled out the the 3 holes in the stock motor plate so I could use nuts for strength. I installed the slipper eliminator. The pin in the shaft for the eliminator is very tight and well made.

[SDheavymetal]

I wanted to move the battery back and lower. I installed the slipper eliminator so I had room for the battery.

The normal front battery location.



New bracket to move the battery back and down.







It's pretty tight in there I have about 1/8 inch between the slipper eliminator and the new battery tray.

[SDheavymetal]

This is a shot of a battery installed. Note how high the battery sits!



I had to cut the steering wheel column because it hit the battery.

This is how high the stock front battery mod sits. I had to hit the receiver loop so I could install the battery lower.



Now the battery is lower and back farther back.

[COwraith]

Looks good. I like that battery location, does it interfere with the upper links? Hard to tell in the picture.

[SDheavymetal]

The lower links don't hit the battery tray. I will take a picture later.

[SDheavymetal]

Originally Posted by COwraith

Looks good. I like that battery location, does it interfere with the upper links? Hard to tell in the picture.

Front suspension fully compressed.
Vanquish front and rear upper and lower links.



Hope can see it now.

[COwraith]

That clears it up. Thanks. Nice work!

[Heckler]

This is how I did mine, I run a 2400 battery most of the time and it sits really low and tilts forward, works really well.

[SDheavymetal]

Very clean install. Did you under coat it?

[Heckler]

The tray is made from aluminum and coated with bedliner.

Originally Posted by SDheavymetal

Very clean install. Did you under coat it?

[Boover]

Both of those look great!

The bedliner made it look really nice Heckler. Just a really clean looking rig.

[Heckler]

Originally Posted by Boover

Both of those look great!

The bedliner made it look really nice Heckler. Just a really clean looking rig.

Thanks, I like it nice and tidy, it much easier to keep clean too.

[SDheavymetal]

I'm going to test out the Axial dual stage shock pistons. I'm installing them in big bore shock left over from my comp crawler. Here is a picture of the dual stage pistons. You might have some on a Axial shock piston tree. I have wanted to try these for a while. Axial part tree ax80033.



I need to debur the pistons. I used green slime when I assembled them. The shafts on the big bores are larger so I had to drill them out.



I drilled out the big bore caps so they pivot freely on the truck. I also filed the flats on the big bore shock caps for a
little more free movement when the shocks are cycling.



I'm also using Axial black springs AX30223

[SDheavymetal]

It's time to change the rear upper shock mount. I used a 3/32 drill bit first.



I used the front upper shock mount as a template drilled with a 3/32 drill bit.







I opened up the holes with a #32 drill bit. The bolts holes will be nice and tight.





I tried all 5 holes and this I think was the best hole. The truck has more down travel now. It lowered the rear a little bit. Looks like I will have to cut the part will 4 holes off.

[Stangracer68]

your rig is awesome heckler. i noticed someone else using for sale signs for making metal trays. im trying to find something nice and thin so i can do the same to my spawn. very clean bends and awesome result. props heckler.

[SDheavymetal]

I had Losi gold springs on the truck, but now I'm running Axial black springs. Axial #AX30223.

I also moved back the servo about 1/8 of an inch. I picked up about 1/8 more front travel. The servo was hitting the front crossbar. Front suspension travel is almost 1.5 inches of travel.





The rear diff hitting the servo mount.



I filed off the two servo mounting bumps for more rear travel.




I filed off the two servo mounting bumps for more rear travel. Just over 1.5 inches of rear travel.



Full suspension travel a little over 1.5 inches.

[SDheavymetal]

So today I got to do a torture test on the wraith. I ran a 5000mah 2 cell and a 4500mah 3 cell. The truck worked great. I might change the oil front 22.5W down to 10W. A short video a friend took. 3 Wraiths running. I just had one bolt loosen up. All the wheels nuts got a little loose. I think I like the 2 cell better.
here is a short video that Bryce took.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XdcY1h0gBk8

[Heckler]

Hey thanks! I dont want to hijack SDheavymetal's thread so if anyone has any questions just shoot me PM.

Nice job on the rig SDheavymetal, I also made a new servo plate and moved my servo back 1/8" helps a lot with clearance.

Originally Posted by Stangracer68

your rig is awesome heckler. i noticed someone else using for sale signs for making metal trays. im trying to find something nice and thin so i can do the same to my spawn. very clean bends and awesome result. props heckler.

[SDheavymetal]

I was changing around the Castle SCT speed control settings today. This is the info I found. I'm new to Castle and difference between drag brake and bake amount. I have only used Tekin before and only use the drag brake.

DRAG BRAKE- slows the car by applying brake to the motor when the throttle is at neutral. Most brushed motor powered cars act this way when no power is being applied to the motor and the car is coasting. You can set the Castle power system for a certain amount of drag brake strength at neutral throttle to simulate this. A small amount of drag brake is often useful in racing as it allows entry into a corner in a more controlled state than when you have to modulate the more powerful trigger brake. Experiment with different settings on different tracks to be able to tune to the conditions quickly wherever you race. For bashers - a very light amount of drag brake can make the car seem more under control and easier to drive. Because bashing is often on uneven and low-grip surfaces, use very low settings at first to avoid spinning out when it engages.

BRAKE AMOUNT-Castle Creations software allows you to fine tune the brake for specific applications and track conditions. Brake Strength changes brake strength form soft (weak) to hard (strong) braking. To disable all brake functions set ‘Brake Strength’ to Disabled.

If the drag brake is set too high it skids badly at when you left off the throttle. I set my drag brake to 20% and the brake amount to 25%. I have front and rear underdrive gears 13/43. Start up power set to high.

[SDheavymetal]

Well I installed the Axial universal's in January and didn't not even get to drive the Wraith. I break in all my gears by lifting the truck in the air and running it about two minutes. I had installed new gears, spools, and universal's in January. When I lifted the truck up and hit the throttle the truck ran for 20 seconds and in heard a piece of metal hit the ground, it was the a broken universal. I called Axial and they mailed me a new one in the March. I lightly ground down the universal's so they didn't bind at all.





I measured the new universal's. They are the same thickness. I was hoping the made them a little stronger.