Vanquish scale knuckle & steering issue What am I doing wrong? The servo horn binds on the steering link. The rod ends are rotated so the link slightly binds on the diff cover at full lock. Basically as low as I can get it. That's the stock servo horn in the pic. The chubs are rotated all the way back in the stock position. Looking at some pics of other installs it seems I have a lot less clearance between the servo horn and link than other people. Do I need a shorter servo horn? Am I missing something else? http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/...psscqxacv1.jpg |
Re: Vanquish scale knuckle & steering issue The long link should be on the bottom of the knuckle's. |
Re: Vanquish scale knuckle & steering issue Use the blue servo arm that came with the servo. I moved my servo back about 1/8 of an inch. That would give you the clearance you need. You will also get more front travel. |
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http://cdn6.bigcommerce.com/s-1pjnuj...0.1280.jpg?c=2 I think it depends a bit on what servo arm you have, some stick a fair bit forward of the servo than others. I had a similar problem with the normal VP knuckles, I solved by accident trying to stop the servo from hitting the bumper with a set of RcBros servo posts & new servo plate, I made mine but the DCW plate will do the same Web Store this all moved the servo & arm back a few mm & stopped the tie rod interfering with the servo arm. You do need to roll the servo over though to stop the arm hitting the diff cover, just run the drag link to the left instead of the right. http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps54de88b7.jpg |
Re: Vanquish scale knuckle & steering issue THe dcw dewanger plate. I'm sure you could drill holes farther back on your stock plate if you don't want to wait. Haven't looked into it myself. |
Re: Vanquish scale knuckle & steering issue Axial clamping horn with bottom hole removed. Ground the bolt flush at the back, and ground the horn flat as well. Also made my own dewanger plate, to the extreme. I don't think you can move the servo back any further, while keeping it on top of the axle. http://s8.postimg.org/4cxnfy13p/IMG_20150126_210134.jpg http://s8.postimg.org/q9k6gbead/IMG_20150126_205933.jpg http://s8.postimg.org/p8jxr6xat/IMG_20150126_205833.jpg |
Re: Vanquish scale knuckle & steering issue Thanks for the replys and pics! At this point i think my main issue is the servo horn is too long. The hole spacing is 20MM, I believe I need a 16MM combined with moving the servo back. after my post last night I rotated the chubs forward and got it to clear a little better, would this have a real crappy effect on higher speed handling? |
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Re: Vanquish scale knuckle & steering issue I run mine with the tie rod on the bottom side of the knuckle, and the drag link in the top side. Plenty of clearance. |
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I don't know that a dewanger is needed, a shorter servo horn would probably cover it, also going to an aluminum an aluminum horn would be a good thing. With the flex of the plastic knuckles removed, and the power of a 7950, the stock plastic horn is not long for this world anyway. |
Re: Vanquish scale knuckle & steering issue Ah i didn't realize the knuckle was not stock! |
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Re: Vanquish scale knuckle & steering issue like stated by the vp guy on here already just clock the c-hubs forward a lil. |
Re: Vanquish scale knuckle & steering issue Put the tie rod on the bottom and you will be going through rod ends frequently, your servo horn is too long. |
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Ahhh I see, thats where I've been going wrong. I was thinking not smashing the tie rod into stuff was a good thing. This is cool, I can take all my high steer knuckles off & put the stockers all back on, then I can sell them to all these suckers that think front end clearance is cool. :roll: |
Re: Vanquish scale knuckle & steering issue Or you could take a minute or two and consider the fact we don't all drive through the exact same terrain as you. |
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