Tummy Tuck

[mcnaney4x4]

Originally Posted by RockinTheSummit

Cut bent and welded. I drilled out other side to save weight. Used some 3/4 in aluminum sleeves in between frame rails with long screws, makes everything sollid. I beat on 4s it makes sparks on rocks with sliders. Great mod very low cg side hills like no other

That's bad ass man! It's reassuring to hear that it has held up under 4s power. I'll be staying mine this weekend

[panama]

Originally Posted by phillymade

I'm torn on this mod. I would like to do it but am uncertain. It looks as though it changes the wheel base and possibly interferes with the links. is this fact or am I over thinking this?

No change of wheel base. Just do it. You'll love it.


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[FaustKnight]

Welp I found a solution...throw money at it.





Had EmeryworX make some new lower rails for me. Was a bit of a fight to get them in since they have zero flex, but the result was worth it.

[mcnaney4x4]

Originally Posted by FaustKnight

Welp I found a solution...throw money at it.

http://www.rccrawler.com//www.pinter...ate/extension/

Had EmeryworX make some new lower rails for me. Was a bit of a fight to get them in since they have zero flex, but the result was worth it.

Those are nice! How much were they? And would they make more?

[raul shabinguez]

I saw those rails. $75 is more then I wanted to spend. So I got a little creative tonight. I have no idea if it will work, but what the hell. Rails were already broken.



I shaved down the rails to fit inside some 1/4 brake line. Drilled some new holes and I'll shoegoo tomorrow(thanks for the tip Poprivet). Hopefully it'll hold for awhile.

[FaustKnight]

Originally Posted by mcnaney4x4

Those are nice! How much were they? And would they make more?

$75, contact EmeryWorx via his thread in the chassis section.

Originally Posted by raul shabinguez

I saw those rails. $75 is more then I wanted to spend.

Yeah they were a bit pricey, but pre-drilled and tapped and a really good fit made it worth it to me. Not to mention they're not aluminum (DOM). They fit in well with my plan to slowly build a full metal chassis.

Ran em a bit tonight for a test and I can climb much taller ledges than I could before. Also lowered my cg a bit and stiffened my chassis a LOT.

[FaustKnight]

Originally Posted by raul shabinguez

I shaved down the rails to fit inside some 1/4 brake line. Drilled some new holes and I'll shoegoo tomorrow(thanks for the tip Poprivet). Hopefully it'll hold for awhile.

Taking a new rail, cutting in the middle, then sleeving it with that same line would be a great idea too.

[phillyb]

What about a metal pipe shaved in half, or a plate for the screws to go through? All these are going with scx10 axles right, no ar60s?

[raul shabinguez]

Originally Posted by phillyb

What about a metal pipe shaved in half, or a plate for the screws to go through? All these are going with scx10 axles right, no ar60s?

I've seen some ar60 axled tummy tucked wraiths, but yeah mainly scx10 1.9ers.

[Myndefuk]

I know this thread's a year old, but whatever. Been back and forth for a week or so on whether or not to do this to my 2.2 Wraith. Got a few in the tank tonight and went for it. I wish I knew how to post pics. Anyway, it was pretty easy. I had to ditch the spur gear cover and slide the skid/suspension/axles back about 1/2" to clear my front-mounted battery. I view this as a positive anyway to move the weight of the truck further forward. Also had to clearance the receiver box crossmember (factory spawn location) to clear the servo now that it sits a little further back and had to clearance the front of the skid to clear the driveshaft. Very small amount. Rear was fine. I am very happy with the results. Actually looks more scale. Only tested in the garage so far. Hopefully I get a chance to test tomorrow. The truck will now clear two 2x4s stacked with a 75% droop setup at ride height.

[MaxxCrawl]

Here was my solution for strengthening the chassis after doing a tummy tuck. I used some 1/4" plywood aluminum channel and drilled through it. Works great and almost acts as a rock slider too.

[panama]

When I did my tummy tuck I made sure that I made my screw holes for the plate large enough for the screws to slip through easily then I touched the top of where the screws would go in flatten the edge of the rail just enough so the screws set flat I've had no pinching of that and no breakage and I've had my tummy tuck for a year

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[ACU18]

I'm fairly new to battery RC's in general let alone Wraiths, I'm a converted Nitro runner. I picked up the spawn kit a few weeks ago and I love it. I'm seriously considering doing this mod, but here's my question... is it an ok mod to do running a factory setup with the 2.2s? Second question... would i need any additional parts to make everything work after the mods. My spawn is pretty much a factory kit setup with the Axial 55T motor and a crappy servo that i am looking to upgrade soon. Thanks in advance for the help.

[panama]

Fairly easy. Good with stock setup. No addition as l parts needed.

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[ACU18]

Awesome, thanks for the fast reply. I might copy MaxxCrawl's idea and use some 1/4 inch C channel to give a bit more strength.

[panama]

That was a nice idea. Dual purpose strength and rock sliders

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[mikemcE]

I really thought long and hard, I want my clearance and sliders too.
Wertymade WM03 stinger and sliders together. I can always use nose weight, this will add a bit, but more stiffness from the front to the rails


Hang up and Drive

[ACU18]

I finally got around to doing mine. I posted the pics on my rigs thread.
"Blue" another new guy with a spawn

[Den72]

Recently purchased a Wraith Spawn, and consequently have been drawn to this forum as I have researched tons of tips/tricks and hacks for this platform.

I am interested in doing this mod for clearance but it is not clear to me from just pictures what it is that I need to do.

Can someone please explain to me where to start?

[altd896]

Tummy tuck requires you take your 2 lower frame rails, cut off the bottom hoop & re-drill at least 2 holes back into the rail above it (doesn't need all 4 on each side)

Whilst it will increase clearance, if you don't make some other changes as well it will effect your link geometry, not necessarily for the better.
The tummy tuck also raises the the trans & motor in the chassis, raising the overall Center of Gravity (CoG) making it more inclined to roll over.

The counter to this is softer springs & lower ride height, somewhat negating the clearance gain under the skid in the first place.