Vanquish steering part number question

[Farabomb]

I see there are 2 different steering links listed. There is one that just says tierod (VPS03110) and one that says ackerman (VPS03111).

I have the scale chubs and knuckles, stock axle with beeftubes What one should I get and does anyone really know the difference?

I would think there is a length issue but I want to make sure I get the right ones. I don't like the small diameter thread in the STRC linkage I have now and don't like that I have to use spacers to get 0 toe on the front.

Since there is only one drag link I shouldn't have an issue there, correct?

[PSW]

I have scale chubs knuckles and use the VPS03110. No problems with the standard VP tie rod.

I don't know much about the ackerman so someone else will have info on that.

[mrhobby100]

I am way to lazy right now to right up an explanation. So I copied a really simple definition. Google there is a kid who does a good video.

Ackermann steering geometry is a geometric arrangement of linkages in the steering of a car or other vehicle designed to solve the problem of wheels on the inside and outside of a turn needing to trace out circles of different radius.

for crawling just use the regular steering links if your gonna get into some racing and more high speed stuff than you would want to go ackerman. but I don' think the scale hubs and knuckles are setup for ackerman steering geometry so I wouldn't use the ackerman link. You need a mix of ackerman links and ackerman geometry knuckles. like on the older wraith knuckles you buy an ackerman arm for the knuckle to replace the standard one along with the ackerman link.

[Farabomb]

I understand the Ackerman principle. What I didn't know is if it was a good idea for crawling. Thank you for the explanation, it might help others looking for info.

I am a little worried about the linkage. When I installed the scale chubs and knuckles I have to put the kingpin at 90 deg. to the centerline, not clocked like it was stock. With the Vanquish linkage it looks like I have to clock it to clear the pumpkin but then it will interfere with the servo arm. Not a huge issue right now as I'm running the stock plastic arm. A simple hole and grinding should take care of the problem if it becomes an issue. I have a hitech 4955TG for when the stocker gives up the ghost and I have the axial aluminum arm for that.

In a related question, does clocking the chubs help with steering? I noticed the stocker struggling in some spots in the short run I had last night. With the hubs clocked the steering center ends up in front of the tire, instead of directly under it when it's 90 deg. What is preferable? I guess it really doesn't matter if I have to clock it to clear the pumkin but I was just wondering.

In theory I could go back and forth as I have 2 different steering linkages but I'd have to stock up on endlinks as I feel I will be pulling them out with the smaller thread on the STRC unit.

[Farabomb]

Oh, and think you Mrhobby, I believe you pointed me in the direction of the scale knuckles. Though I did have issues with the threads on the chubs right out of the package I sorted it but still have to be very careful whenever I have to put them back together. I wonder if helicoil makes inserts that small. They did rub with the stock wheel hubs but since Vanquish ones are on the list the axial extended ones were a cheap bandaid. I really want to get rid of those silly pins soon though.

[mrhobby100]

No problem. I love the scale knuckles and chubs. Great design. My son and i both run them on ohr rigs. Vp makes their stuff with real tight tolerances so what i do is thread the screws thru the hole without any accesorie bolted to it to clean the threads first of any lil metal pieces. Also anytime you put a screw back into a vp part it could strip. I usually do a lil back spin on the screw it will make a lil click and then its seated straight on the threads then screw it in. If their is any resistance stop. Most vp parts will thread a screw very smooth if its seated right any tension meams cross threading in stuff this small. But hey if something happens it can be replaced alot easier than a 1:1. I dont know if a helicoil would work on the chub or not.

Also if your having to unscrew the link that mounts to the servo . Get a jato rod end and tightne it all the way and tighten the other end with the revo rod end and it will line up perfect.

I am running servo on axle and i had to get a short aluminum double clamping servo arm and the grind it down not to bind with the steering link below it.

[Farabomb]

Well the LHS didn't have just the steering link, just the kit and I already have the upper and lower links. They also won't be carrying vanquish because of the margins so I couldn't order it. I'm building up a RPP wish list so when I need something else I'll get it there.

Right after I had the issue I stopped and did exactly as you said. I did make a thread chaser out of a old screw to clean up the slightly buggered one but it still needs TLC on reinstall. Still a great product and will happily purchase more from them. A new charger (hitec x4) is on the list before anything else. The MRC989's lack of a storage mode is bothering me. Not that I don't run the trucks everyday right now but by race season I know I'll have to park them for a little bit.