Dlux Carbon truss warning.

[GTSLOW]

See below.

[allanon1965]

Pics of damage???

[tapped-out]

Post pictures, maybe you did something wrong or over tightened something during installation. This is the 1st failure I've read about....

[GTSLOW]

Looks like the small aluminum piece had the threads pulled and the front section snapped off.

[tapped-out]

Sounds like maybe you forgot to use lock tight ..

[gsrcivic]

I used and still use these truss there super strong ive ran them on different setups fron 27t brush hh torquemaster to 3300kv and 4000kv pro 4 motors mine held up to all the abuse maybe you didnt have something right or something wasnt tighten down correctly....post pics so we can see what happened

[GTSLOW]

What am I supposed to post a picture of? A stripped hole and a snapped tab? Don't get me wrong I love the things. Wheel get stuck with power applied and that happened to be the weakest link.

[84yoda]

Ive heard of one other person who broke one as well. Dlux does make a bigger/beefier/stronger one. Contact him and maybe he'll set you up with it.

[cboggs]

I'd be curious also to see where it broke as I've never heard or seen of this before. I've ran mine for years in everything from comp crawlers to Ultra4 without issue.

[GTSLOW]

I tried to get a picture with my cell phone and it's blurry. I'll get a better in the morning. Looking at it the aluminum piece that the long screw goes through has the threads pulled out and is oblong now favoring the direction it was pulled. The other aluminum piece has the threads pulled straight out of the back. The small tab from the front carbon piece is still attached with the screw going through it.

[maslin]

"Broken small tab" = "obliterated rear truss"

Got it.

[GTSLOW]

Tab broken, stripped holes, all the same. Regardless it's unusable. Defend what you want, troll what you want. I loved the truss for its adjustment. Maybe it was bad luck, weak threads, fluke? I went over the truck just a few days ago after running Coranado. There was no screws missing or loose. It is what it is.

[altd896]

2 of us down have broken a front but the rear has been fine, we blame a particular U4 track layout we had that had wash across it that became more of a ditch.
West & Down 2.2 U4
I got an off-cut of carbon sheet I had & braced it fine,

When I e-mailed Erik (the polite thing to do) he'd heard of only 2 others & they also were odd/exceptional circumstances to cause the break.
He also said the thicker G10 version was the answer.
Make sure you let him know you've had one fail.

When your the works CAD draftsman & do the driving of the waterjet, you can remedy these problems permanently in 1.6mm stainless.
Low servo mount for SSD front axle, there is only this 1, likely only ever going to be 1 & its mine lol.

[cboggs]

I got to agree on the G10, I've built a few using that G10 truss and I would be shocked if you could break it.

[Erik D_lux]

I am guessing it broke like this one?



If it did, it makes sense. All of the load is put on the one aluminum spacer and to make it worse, not having that bolt threaded in there makes it so it can twist and that will surely break the carbon. I have not seen a G10 truss break like this but I wouldnt be surprised if it did. To fix this issue, I am no longer making a threaded spacer, I am simply supplying a longer screw and a nut. I think this should fix it.

I have seen maybe 15 or so carbon trusses broken and 1 G10. 12-13 of those were from something like the above or a lot of users just didnt use all the screws/braces and left them out (not sure why). The only G10 truss I have seen break was due to the housing breaking first and then the truss broke. I have pictures of a carbon truss that broke ABOVE where he even had his links mounted (truss contacted the chassis).

I am no longer making carbon trusses for the reasons above. They are all going to be G10 from here out. I do have a handful of carbon rears so get them before they are gone. Its a shame because I am getting lots of messages for the front carbon ones but I just cant do it anymore. People break a part, (even if failure has nothing to do with the part) and they want free replacements. Sorry but I just cant successfully run a business like that.

[GTSLOW]

No worries. I've had no issues with the front thus far and like the servo layout. It does look like the above mentioned.

Does the G10 still offer the multiple adjustments for the upper links?

[GTSLOW]

Now looking at it, I almost think if the spacers or small pieces were steel they would hold up fine. Once the threads pull or give on either of the two the carbon has no chance. These low geared brushless cars make loads of torque.

[68_f100]

I am curious what is gained by running one of these over the factory style truss?

[Erik D_lux]

Originally Posted by GTSLOW

Does the G10 still offer the multiple adjustments for the upper links?

Yeah, same exact truss only 2x as thick.

Hopefully Sh0rtbus is ok with me posting these pictures. LOL Check out his thread: Yet Another Yeti Build

Originally Posted by GTSLOW

Now looking at it, I almost think if the spacers or small pieces were steel they would hold up fine. Once the threads pull or give on either of the two the carbon has no chance. These low geared brushless cars make loads of torque.

That bolt should see close to zero side load. If that spacer strips, its not because of the forces of the car. Either way, its a moot point now that I am doing a longer bolt and a nut instead.

Originally Posted by 68_f100

I am curious what is gained by running one of these over the factory style truss?

• Dropped servo for a much better COG
  
• Servo is in a great spot for proper steering link geometry. This means more power and a more consistent feel.
  
• Upper links are adjustable. This is really cool for the Wraith style guys who only have one upper link mount on their chassis. Raising the links at the axle has tested overly positive for us so I think it will be great even if you have adjustability at the chassis. Testing has shown much better sidehilling and climbing just by raising the links at the axle.
  
• Steering links can be made so they are all behind the diff cover at all times. No more huge hang up points.
  
• Servo horn does not extend past the front of the axle tube, no way it can get hit or in the way.
  
• Strengthens the plastic housing to help prevent bending and breaking.

Lastly, I am FAR, FAR from a scale guy but the stock mount or one that mounts the servo on top of the pumpkin usually draws attention straight to the servo and makes it the focal point (YUK!). IMO, you shouldnt even see the servo. Wheels7 does a great job of building a chassis around these trusses.

[Mudsy]

The front truss cracked a bit, because the locknut came loose.

My fix was replacing all buttonhead screws with flathead screws & axial cone washers, then adding a bit of locklite to the locknuts. Works like a charm.