Tips for my 1st build

[jmyer72]

I have seen and intend to utilize the page by page video series when I do my build. I have no doubt that I can do the job. The purpose of this thread is to find out tips from the experienced builders on here that the Axial instruction book won't cover.

I'm building a Spawn kit with the following components....

Tekin 30T Pro motor w/ Axial AE-5 ESC
Hitec HS-5646WP servo
Tactic TTX300 Radio system
Aluminum steering linkage

So what tips can you guys share that will help me make the most out of my build? A few initial questions I already have are....

What's a good method of properly lubricating diff, axle, trans, etc gears?

What's the best product to use?

When it comes time to build the shocks, any tips/tricks? Is the oil provided sufficient or should I use a different weight? (I just want a good setup got crawling/playing around the house. This isn't a SC truck, I don't expect it to corner/handle well) Crawling is much more important than handling.

What about assembling the wheels & tires? I've heard some guys don't use foams. I also understand there are adjustable air holes on the wheels. Any advice on these options?

That's all I can personally think of off hand but I graciously welcome any and all advice outside of the instruction manual when it comes to this build.

Thank you in advance

[mikl]

one thing I can say is to read the instructions carefully. One mistake I made was to get turned around on the axle build-I built the axles backwards because I did not look at the photos carefully enough to see which way Axial was showing them.
I used a good thick grease for the axle, ring and pinion gears. Nothing too special, just some good grease.
Never built the stock shocks so I don't know anything about them.
I am pretty sure you will need foams in the tires. When I built my Axial beadlocks, i had one vent hole open. Seems to work well.
My biggest issue was where to put all the electronics. I built mine with the battery forward and put the ESC under the hood. Moved the receiver box to the passenger seat, kind of looks like a cooler for camping.

[SCREAMER]

Make sure you use quality METRIC hex wrenches/drivers

The shock oil is fine for the stock shocks, see if you can pick up some green slime for installing the shafts. This will help with the shaft install and seal up the O rings and may keep the shocks from leaking but probably not. Stock shocks are known to leak unless modified with different O rings. Someone may chime in with the part number but I don't know it because I've never ran the stockers.

Definitely run foams and since you are crawling you want a quicker reaction so I'd go all three holes open.

I'd also recommend doing the battery forward mod while you are building. This makes a significant improvement in crawling and specifically climbing ability.

Any quality grease for the transmission and differentials is good. I use Bel Ray waterproof grease for motorcycles because it's what I already had.

I very highly recommend installing all machined steel gears in the transmission as well since you are building the kit. Hot racing and Axials own three gear kit are great options and it's easier to do it now while everything is clean and disassembled than tearing everything apart and doing it later. The stock plastic gears are known to strip. It's not a question of if it will happen but when.

Read all the stickies at the top of this forum, tons of great info that taught me a lot. Take your time and good luck!

[jmyer72]

Originally Posted by SCREAMER

Make sure you use quality METRIC hex wrenches/drivers

The shock oil is fine for the stock shocks, see if you can pick up some green slime for installing the shafts. This will help with the shaft install and seal up the O rings and may keep the shocks from leaking but probably not. Stock shocks are known to leak unless modified with different O rings. Someone may chime in with the part number but I don't know it because I've never ran the stockers.

Definitely run foams and since you are crawling you want a quicker reaction so I'd go all three holes open.

I'd also recommend doing the battery forward mod while you are building. This makes a significant improvement in crawling and specifically climbing ability.

Any quality grease for the transmission and differentials is good. I use Bel Ray waterproof grease for motorcycles because it's what I already had.

I very highly recommend installing all machined steel gears in the transmission as well since you are building the kit. Hot racing and Axials own three gear kit are great options and it's easier to do it now while everything is clean and disassembled than tearing everything apart and doing it later. The stock plastic gears are known to strip. It's not a question of if it will happen but when.

Read all the stickies at the top of this forum, tons of great info that taught me a lot. Take your time and good luck!

Thanks for all those very helpful tips!!

I was thinking about the battery mod too. I'll need to lookup some threads on that. I've heard there are kits you can buy but I've also been told it can be done basically for free.

I think I'm gonna go with the Lucas Red "N" Tacky for assembly grease.

Is it necessary or recommended to Loctite anything?

[SCREAMER]

Here are some things I always locktite. The bottom diff outputs in the trans, if I'm not using a one piece output. The 4 bolts holding the ring gear to the carrier. The 2 motor mount bolts. The three bolts that thread into the motor plate. When you switch to 12 mm hexes and get away from those pin drive hubs you'll want to locktite the set screw on the 12mm hex. Clamping hexes are the way to go though. I like ProLines clamping hexes and of course Vanquish hexes are the nicest IMO.

[YJ4Rox]

the kit comes with some blue thread locking liquid but a small stick or bottle of real locktite brand medium strength is handy.

I also recommend the metal trans gears. the idler will blow the teeth off in short order. Depending on your budget I would also recommend picking up some metal spools for the diffs if you plan on bouncing or bashing. The fit and finish on the Lockedup FI spools i installed is top notch. If you are primarily into crawling I would also say pick up a 10 or 11tooth pinion as the stock 12/56 is fairly high, great for donuts and fast stuff but for tech crawling its a tad high. Just my personal preference though.

I packed my diffs with green grease. I use it on my 1:1 jeep, my dirtbikes, etc.


The front mount battery is easy to do. I cut my hood off and velcro it on (using the battery tie downs) for easy battery access otherwise you have to pull the body off.

I mounted my receiver box in the rear, I needed some servo extensions so keep that in mind when you pick mounting locations.

The instructions are easy to follow and the kit goes together quickly. Get some good quality metric hex drivers. Skip the cheap stuff as the 1.5mm and 2mm will round off quickly. If you have the cheap ones just file/grind the ends down to remove the rounded portion.

[PileDriver]

I would suggest taking your time threading the hardware into the plastic pieces. Some plastic pieces on these kits strip easier than others, the one I strip more than others is the transmission case so I went with a metal case. When I built my kit I bough machined thread hardware from a vendor on here to eliminate those "grabber" screws. Werty made has some pretty awesome front battery plates.

[Helicrawler]

I built my Wraith Spawn a couple months ago. First kit I've built since a Tamiya Grasshopper 30 years ago.

No major problems here, but I think I managed to screw up the wheels. Two of them don't run true, and I think it's because I warped the faces by over tightening the wheel hub adapters. The fine threads on the screws just keep biting, so it's hard to feel when they're snug and I found it easy to over tighten them.

Oh, and I also snapped one of the shock caps: the picture in the manual is a little misleading, so I filled the shocks with the shaft fully extended and then put the cap on. Couldn't figure out why it wouldn't compress, and stupidly kept pushing on it until it finally broke. D'oh! Anyway, you want to compress the shaft fully, then put on the cap.