Scott's Wraith Build

[VMGontheRocks]

Recently picked up all the parts to build a wraith (minus wheels and tires) in a trade. Figured I make a little build thread as I put it together.

Body and cage:


May go back to panels as I have those too.

Most of the parts:


I dissembled everything and cleaned it in an ultrasonic cleaner.

Decided I'd start with the links (VP Incision SS links):


These are pretty beefy, but also pretty heavy.

Lower links laid out:


Lower links installed:


Upper links installed (I hope this is how they are supposed to go)


I had a Vp dig unit in my transmission box so I figured I'd throw it in this and give it a shot.

Hopefully there is enough parts here to build one complete transmission:


Interesting thing I noticed:

This is the robinson racing lower gear


This is the lightweight HR lower gear


Robinson gear is half the weight of the "lightweight" HR gear

Went with the HR gear anyways


Transmission assembled, just need to add a motor and servo:


That was all I had time for last night, hope to get the transmission mounted up tonight and make some progress with the axles.

[SCREAMER]

The Robinson gear is hardened aluminum. They do also make a steel version. I've used both with good results.

[VMGontheRocks]

Originally Posted by SCREAMER

The Robinson gear is hardened aluminum. They do also make a steel version. I've used both with good results.

Do you know how much the steel version weighs? I think I only have the aluminum ones.

[SCREAMER]

No idea but it's probably quite a bit heavier than the lightened HR since it's a solid piece design like the aluminum. The part numbers are 1540 for the hardened aluminum and 1552 for the hardened steel. The aluminum version has the bronze hue whereas the steel is more silver colored. That's the easiest way to tell just by looking.

[WHITE-TRASH]

If you're worried about the weight just use the robinson gear. It's plenty strong, I have one in my bouncer running stupid power. I have an HR lightened gear on hand to replace it but so far so good.

[VMGontheRocks]

Originally Posted by SCREAMER

No idea but it's probably quite a bit heavier than the lightened HR since it's a solid piece design like the aluminum. The part numbers are 1540 for the hardened aluminum and 1552 for the hardened steel. The aluminum version has the bronze hue whereas the steel is more silver colored. That's the easiest way to tell just by looking.

or just pick them up and notice the weight difference

Originally Posted by WHITE-TRASH

If you're worried about the weight just use the robinson gear. It's plenty strong, I have one in my bouncer running stupid power. I have an HR lightened gear on hand to replace it but so far so good.

On this truck I'm not too concerned with the weight.

I have the robinson one on all my other trucks. This is the first HR lower gear I've ever had.

[rcmattster1971]

I have a hot question for you guys. BTW nice build so far, I like what I see here. Many nice upgrades. I built one also with the following in the transmission, its a HR housing, with HR hardened steel gears, MIP drive shafts, its got the steel spur from Axial and a steel pinion. I am running a 4600kv motor so kicking out around 100k RPM. Needless to say this thing moves even with the reduction gearing that is in this small tranny. One thing I did notice is that I am getting some serious heat. Not only is the motor and esc getting hot but the gear box was so hot I could barely touch it and even the MIP drive shafts were hot to the touch. Am I doomed for a melt down here by the bearings? or what do you think? Has anyone else who put some power into the upgraded drive train noticed heat like this?

[VMGontheRocks]

Originally Posted by rcmattster1971

I have a hot question for you guys. BTW nice build so far, I like what I see here. Many nice upgrades. I built one also with the following in the transmission, its a HR housing, with HR hardened steel gears, MIP drive shafts, its got the steel spur from Axial and a steel pinion. I am running a 4600kv motor so kicking out around 100k RPM. Needless to say this thing moves even with the reduction gearing that is in this small tranny. One thing I did notice is that I am getting some serious heat. Not only is the motor and esc getting hot but the gear box was so hot I could barely touch it and even the MIP drive shafts were hot to the touch. Am I doomed for a melt down here by the bearings? or what do you think? Has anyone else who put some power into the upgraded drive train noticed heat like this?

Thanks!

What gearing are you running?

Motor could be getting really hot and then heat transfer heats everything else up.

[WHITE-TRASH]

The hr gears are good. I have their 1 piece lower and a couple lightened lowers in use and no issues out of them. If you were ever to want a 1 piece lower I'd definitely go hr vs rr. HR is hard steel that doesn't deform like rr when the screws are cranked down.


Heat in the mip's is probably from them being ran dry. I put a drop of oil on the mip joints every couple of runs on my high power/high speed rigs and they stay tighter longer than them being ran dry.

[rcmattster1971]

Originally Posted by VMGontheRocks

Thanks!

What gearing are you running?

Motor could be getting really hot and then heat transfer heats everything else up.

Same size as stock... just HR steel gears. Spur is 32 pitch 56 tooth like stock gearing, pinion is I think 14 tooth, its small.

[rcmattster1971]

Originally Posted by WHITE-TRASH

The hr gears are good. I have their 1 piece lower and a couple lightened lowers in use and no issues out of them. If you were ever to want a 1 piece lower I'd definitely go hr vs rr. HR is hard steel that doesn't deform like rr when the screws are cranked down.


Heat in the mip's is probably from them being ran dry. I put a drop of oil on the mip joints every couple of runs on my high power/high speed rigs and they stay tighter longer than them being ran dry.

I try not to run anything that will attract dirt like oil on the joints of the MIP driveshafts. I am using powdered graphite on the connections for lubrication. The gears have white lithium grease on them in the gear box. I am not worried about the gears distorting, I am worried about the temperature injuring the bearings. I was just curious if anyone else experienced this in a Wraith that they had set up to run fast.

[VMGontheRocks]

Originally Posted by rcmattster1971

Same size as stock... just HR steel gears. Spur is 32 pitch 56 tooth like stock gearing, pinion is I think 14 tooth, its small.

I would gear it down considerably and see if everything is still getting hot.

I don't have any experience with running a wraith fast, so I'm not much help in that regard.

[VMGontheRocks]

Got a little done during my lunch break today.

Front axle assembly, grabbed an over drive gear set I pulled from a truck a few months ago and some locker that I have no idea who makes it. Maybe VP:


Grabbed the knuckles, c-hubs and universals:

Not the biggest fan of these knuckles but they will work.

More or less assembled:

Just need to grease and shave/install the diff cover.

[VMGontheRocks]

Diff cover shaved and installed. Not my best job, didn't use the right dremel attachment, but it will do:

Blurry pic alert, fail.

Axle full assembled with a Hitec 5995 servo;


Time to get started on the rear axle:

Just using the stock R&P and locker in the rear for now until I get some under gears.

Bearing caps and diff cover:


Kind of skipped some steps here, but rear axle fully assembled:


First time ever building a rear wraith axle (only ever built front ones), didn't realize you had to remove a screw from the link mounts to get the rear axle shaft to slide all the way in.

Time to move onto the cage. Using a wertymade battery mount/winch mount. This is the stub nose version, at one point many months ago I had planned on building a 1.9 wraith.
Installed a Hitec 645 winch I had laying around. Smoked the motor in my KMS style winch a few weeks ago so until I build another one of those I'll be using this.




Grabbed the skid, trans and links and installed it to the cage:


Looks like I need to add two more screws:


And installed:

added the two more screws as well.

Started to monkeying around with shocks but then decided to call it a night.

Plan for tonight is finish building the shock. Still undecided if I will be using 3.5" big bores or 4" big bores.

Then get it to a roller status and maybe start laying out the electronics.

[VMGontheRocks]

Decided to go with the 3.5" big bores:

TRA 2660
LOSB1117 Springs Medium Front, Firm Rear.
Dlux preload spring cups

Mounted:


Rear axle on:


Full articulation on both sides, don't quite get full compression but close enough.

[VMGontheRocks]

Ran into my first couple of issues:


Winch spool hits upper link, well so much for trying to use the stub nose wertymade plate...


Decided to just take out the winch for the time being.

Got the front shocks and front axle on:


Then I ran into the dreaded servo arm hitting the cage. Luckily I had one of these:


And installed:


Test fitting a 2200 3s pack, plenty of room:


Grabbed some wheels and tires off the shelf:


2.2 SLWs V1s
CI Double Duece Foams, 5.5 Soft fronts, 5.5 med rears
Custom 2.2 pitbull rock beast tires (uses 1.9 tread on 2.2 rok lox sidewalls) built by JoeyF

Just have to add drive lines and wire it up:


And obligatory will it stand on it's side shot:

[Bryan-S]

Where did you get that battery tray?

[VMGontheRocks]

Originally Posted by Bryan-S

Where did you get that battery tray?

It's a Wertymade plate.

I got it from RPP:
Wertymade Wraith forward mount battery tray Stub Nose w/Servo winch mount

Though unless you're running scx10 axles, I'd recommend running this plate instead:
Wertymade Wraith forward mount battery tray w/Servo winch mount

[Kabels4130]

What motor esc combo are you planning on running? The werty plate winch setup is a cool winch option. Going to keep that in mind.

[VMGontheRocks]

Originally Posted by Kabels4130

What motor esc combo are you planning on running? The werty plate winch setup is a cool winch option. Going to keep that in mind.

I kind of slacked off on this build thread.

But I'm using a Holmes Hobbies BRXL and some mystery 35t I got in a lot a while back.

I loaned it out to a guys daughter a few weeks ago and she enjoyed it and it seemed to do pretty well for a wraith.

I'm not sure how much longer I'll keep it like this though, I've got a Toyzuki set up sitting on my work bench that I'm eventually going to throw the wraith axles under.