RCCrawler Forums

Brake Weight · 10-04-2016, 04:19 PM

I've always wanted one of these and never got one. I picked up enough to build a Bomber a few months ago and figured I piece together a Wraith finally. Some of it was bought recently, some will get pulled from another project, and a few pieces still to be shipped out.

Used
-Spawn body
-Wraith shocks
-WB driveshafts
-ar60s with universals
-HR aluminum Wraith links I've had for 2 years in a box or build some from stainless rod
-Bomber BFGs, Deadbolt Ripsaws, Yeti Krawlers, or maybe HPI Rockgrabbers (undecided)
-Yeti beadlocks or may glue them to some wide Arrma wheels I got recently for super cheap

New
-tranny
-chassis and skid
-possibly interior

Electronics
-550 Titan, various 540 cans from 17-35t, or something new
-ae-5 esc
-possibly a cheap brushless
-likely just pull the motor and esc from my 380 Yeti
-RadioLink RC4G Tx/Rx
-2s 5000mAh and/or 3s 3000mAh
-I've got a beefy Chinese metal gear servo to try out

smartcomm · 10-09-2016, 01:46 PM

Sounds like a pretty good plan. If they are the hr links with the built in aluminum rod ends i would probably build my own. I had alot of problems with the balls falling out of the hr links

Brake Weight · 10-09-2016, 02:12 PM

They're aluminum links with m3 threaded plastic end links. If they fail I'll make my own. I've got a couple bags of the RPM ends needing a home. I should be able to get started next weekend.

smartcomm · 10-09-2016, 09:03 PM

Yeah the plastic ends are fine. Its the links with aluminum ends that are one piece with the link that cause problems

Brake Weight · 10-16-2016, 08:23 PM

The cage came in a bag of parts trees and not assembled. So I spent about an hour putting it together. Then stripped the axles, shocks, and driveshafts off of a failed project to reuse on this. Installed a cheap Chinese 2100kV sensorless motor and the AE-3 Vanguard ESC. Calibrated and set up the ESC the long way using the Tx and listening to beeps.

2100kV, 13/56 gearing, AE-3 ESC, and a 2s trial run looks promising. The shocks I used were HPI Wheelie Kings and are fairly stiff. But they were within reach at the time and slightly shorter than the Wraith shocks buried in a box somewhere.

Excuse the shop vac hose.

Brake Weight · 10-17-2016, 05:23 PM

Anyone still running the stock Wraith shocks? I've got a set and several springs. I'm guessing that Reds are stock springs.

I've got Red-2.07 lbs/in, Purple-1.43, and Black-1.04. Plus an HR set of 4 pairs.

allanon1965 · 10-17-2016, 08:56 PM

the purples were stock on my wraith...

Brake Weight · 10-17-2016, 10:08 PM

I'm going to take it out tomorrow and see how the Reds do. With a 2s 2200mAh in the rear position it is nearly perfectly balanced F/R.

I put a set of RockGrabbers on it, too. But if the Purples were stock I may put those in the front and the Blacks in the rear.

I haven't decided if I want a basher or crawler yet.

Brake Weight · 10-18-2016, 09:30 AM

I took it out to a dirt pile down the road. What it couldn't do yesterday with stiff suspension it did today with the Red springs. I took my Bomber, too, and it did loads better with Bomber shocks and springs also. Go figure...

I didn't take any action shots but did some poser pics after air hosing the dust off.

Brake Weight · 10-19-2016, 03:09 PM

I'm really enjoying this Wraith. It's got a little go fast and crawling capabilities and my other 'crawlers' don't. Having a little spare time today I attempted to make some body panels.

The first try was using the cover from a small 3 ring notebook found in the sale bin at Wally World. I marked the holes incorrectly and it didn't pull tight. So being the genius I am, I thought a shot from my heat gun may shrink it. Nope. It made it worse. So in anger I heated it until it curled up tight. The idea was there, though.

Next try was using an ANSI approved acrylic face shield. It was much easier to make holes but not as easy to cut out. So I mounted it first, then cut it out, and it came out pretty good. But I got greedy. I heated this one so it would sag around the roof braces to simulate a soft top. The idea was there... I may try to find some canvas to do a real soft top. I screwed up and cut the hood short of it breaking over on the front and sides, too. Plus I don't like the color. The Olive Drab is just too dark for me so I'll be needing to swing by my LHS for something else brighter.

TacoCrawler · 10-20-2016, 12:23 AM

Brake Weight · 10-20-2016, 09:45 AM

I've seen this done. I like mine more balanced front to rear than front heavy, though.

Brake Weight · 10-20-2016, 03:14 PM

I found a template for shorty side panels and thought I'd give it a try. They're a good fit but I'd like some that wrap around. I don't think I can successfully make a proper hood so I'll just break down and order a set of clear panels.

I did give it another try with the more flexible vinyl from a notebook.

I think I found a suitable material for future panels, too. I was passing an end cap at a big box store this morning and saw some seasonal plastic type place mats for a dining table. They weren't too heavy, thick yet flexible, and cheap.

Brake Weight · 10-21-2016, 01:23 PM

I took a stab at the hood last night and came close. I went ahead and ordered the body panel set AX04027 this morning.

Brake Weight · 10-23-2016, 04:03 PM

I swapped the 100mm Wraith shocks out for a spare set of 90mm SCX shocks. I like the ride height a lot better but it caused my servo to not line up to pass inside the chassis. The Wraith shocks would bottom out before reaching this point. So I had to add 3 jam nuts and new m3 allthread to the links to push the axle far enough to pass. Then I had to extend the front bumper to allow the servo horn to pass.

So I did some searching and was considering some Big Bores when I stumbled across the staggered length Yeti 380 shocks: 130mm and 95mm. I'll find two sets and use the shorter front shocks on the Wraith and the longer rear shocks on my R1 hybrid crawler.

The longer shocks would let me mount them back at the normal spot instead of down low and should give me more stroke.

Brake Weight · 10-26-2016, 09:57 AM

My body came in a few days ago and I had an epiphany. I have a few more pieces of face shield and I will attempt to vacuum mold a hood and roof this afternoon. I've seen small bodies done DIY style pulled from die cast models. They used a thin lexan for those to get the bends and details. This is thick acrylic and won't have all the details of the original. I bought some plaster of Paris and poured some into the uncut panels last night. They're almost dry now and I need a skirt to attach around the acrylic to help suck it to the mold as I heat it.

Brake Weight · 10-26-2016, 02:49 PM

I didn't take any pics of actually doing it, just the finished hood. To be as thick as it is I think it worked out decent for a first try.

Absolutely not the greatest but I'll take it for a first try. I've got enough left to hand cut the side panels. I'll see what my Lowes and Home Depot have to offer for maybe trying for another one.

I spent about 10 minutes at the paint racks at my LHS and couldn't decide what to use. I'm going to rattle can bedliner a scrap piece and see how well it sticks and takes abuse.

Brake Weight · 10-26-2016, 02:55 PM

As for my short, front Yeti shocks all around. I'm going to buy some cheap GPM aluminum off of fleaBay and try them out. They listed them at 3.3", or 84mm. So I'd guess about 80mm eye to eye. A little shorter than I want, but at the price point I'll experiment.

Brake Weight · 10-28-2016, 05:40 PM

I painted the made body yesterday. The details and crisp lines just aren't there but the shape is there. A female mold would do best.

Oh, well...here it is anyway.

Brake Weight · 10-31-2016, 12:42 PM

I swapped the shock oil out last night for some more viscous and it worked wonders for rebound bouncing.

So I took it to a rock/dirt pile. It performed great.

But took a tumble from the tip when I got greedy. Heated and shaped acrylic apparently shatters. Oh well.

10-04-2016, 04:19 PM	#1
Brake Weight I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South Posts: 3,444	#1 I've always wanted one of these and never got one. I picked up enough to build a Bomber a few months ago and figured I piece together a Wraith finally. Some of it was bought recently, some will get pulled from another project, and a few pieces still to be shipped out. Used -Spawn body -Wraith shocks -WB driveshafts -ar60s with universals -HR aluminum Wraith links I've had for 2 years in a box or build some from stainless rod -Bomber BFGs, Deadbolt Ripsaws, Yeti Krawlers, or maybe HPI Rockgrabbers (undecided) -Yeti beadlocks or may glue them to some wide Arrma wheels I got recently for super cheap New -tranny -chassis and skid -possibly interior Electronics -550 Titan, various 540 cans from 17-35t, or something new -ae-5 esc -possibly a cheap brushless -likely just pull the motor and esc from my 380 Yeti -RadioLink RC4G Tx/Rx -2s 5000mAh and/or 3s 3000mAh -I've got a beefy Chinese metal gear servo to try out

10-09-2016, 01:46 PM	#2
smartcomm Newbie Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: sl,ut Posts: 12	Re: Parting together a Wraith Sounds like a pretty good plan. If they are the hr links with the built in aluminum rod ends i would probably build my own. I had alot of problems with the balls falling out of the hr links

10-09-2016, 02:12 PM	#3
Brake Weight I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South Posts: 3,444	Re: Parting together a Wraith They're aluminum links with m3 threaded plastic end links. If they fail I'll make my own. I've got a couple bags of the RPM ends needing a home. I should be able to get started next weekend.

10-09-2016, 09:03 PM	#4
smartcomm Newbie Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: sl,ut Posts: 12	Re: Parting together a Wraith Yeah the plastic ends are fine. Its the links with aluminum ends that are one piece with the link that cause problems

10-16-2016, 08:23 PM	#5
Brake Weight I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South Posts: 3,444	Re: Parting together a Wraith The cage came in a bag of parts trees and not assembled. So I spent about an hour putting it together. Then stripped the axles, shocks, and driveshafts off of a failed project to reuse on this. Installed a cheap Chinese 2100kV sensorless motor and the AE-3 Vanguard ESC. Calibrated and set up the ESC the long way using the Tx and listening to beeps. 2100kV, 13/56 gearing, AE-3 ESC, and a 2s trial run looks promising. The shocks I used were HPI Wheelie Kings and are fairly stiff. But they were within reach at the time and slightly shorter than the Wraith shocks buried in a box somewhere. Excuse the shop vac hose.

10-17-2016, 05:23 PM	#6
Brake Weight I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South Posts: 3,444	Re: Parting together a Wraith Anyone still running the stock Wraith shocks? I've got a set and several springs. I'm guessing that Reds are stock springs. I've got Red-2.07 lbs/in, Purple-1.43, and Black-1.04. Plus an HR set of 4 pairs.

10-17-2016, 08:56 PM	#7
allanon1965 I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: NW Indiana Posts: 3,196	Re: Parting together a Wraith the purples were stock on my wraith...

10-17-2016, 10:08 PM	#8
Brake Weight I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South Posts: 3,444	Parting together a Wraith I'm going to take it out tomorrow and see how the Reds do. With a 2s 2200mAh in the rear position it is nearly perfectly balanced F/R. I put a set of RockGrabbers on it, too. But if the Purples were stock I may put those in the front and the Blacks in the rear. I haven't decided if I want a basher or crawler yet. Last edited by Brake Weight; 10-17-2016 at 11:08 PM.

10-18-2016, 09:30 AM	#9
Brake Weight I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South Posts: 3,444	Re: Parting together a Wraith I took it out to a dirt pile down the road. What it couldn't do yesterday with stiff suspension it did today with the Red springs. I took my Bomber, too, and it did loads better with Bomber shocks and springs also. Go figure... I didn't take any action shots but did some poser pics after air hosing the dust off.

10-19-2016, 03:09 PM	#10
Brake Weight I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South Posts: 3,444	Re: Parting together a Wraith I'm really enjoying this Wraith. It's got a little go fast and crawling capabilities and my other 'crawlers' don't. Having a little spare time today I attempted to make some body panels. The first try was using the cover from a small 3 ring notebook found in the sale bin at Wally World. I marked the holes incorrectly and it didn't pull tight. So being the genius I am, I thought a shot from my heat gun may shrink it. Nope. It made it worse. So in anger I heated it until it curled up tight. The idea was there, though. Next try was using an ANSI approved acrylic face shield. It was much easier to make holes but not as easy to cut out. So I mounted it first, then cut it out, and it came out pretty good. But I got greedy. I heated this one so it would sag around the roof braces to simulate a soft top. The idea was there... I may try to find some canvas to do a real soft top. I screwed up and cut the hood short of it breaking over on the front and sides, too. Plus I don't like the color. The Olive Drab is just too dark for me so I'll be needing to swing by my LHS for something else brighter.

10-20-2016, 12:23 AM	#11
TacoCrawler I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 3,099	Re: Parting together a Wraith

10-20-2016, 09:45 AM	#12
Brake Weight I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South Posts: 3,444	Re: Parting together a Wraith I've seen this done. I like mine more balanced front to rear than front heavy, though.

10-20-2016, 03:14 PM	#13
Brake Weight I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South Posts: 3,444	Re: Parting together a Wraith I found a template for shorty side panels and thought I'd give it a try. They're a good fit but I'd like some that wrap around. I don't think I can successfully make a proper hood so I'll just break down and order a set of clear panels. I did give it another try with the more flexible vinyl from a notebook. I think I found a suitable material for future panels, too. I was passing an end cap at a big box store this morning and saw some seasonal plastic type place mats for a dining table. They weren't too heavy, thick yet flexible, and cheap.

10-21-2016, 01:23 PM	#14
Brake Weight I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South Posts: 3,444	Re: Parting together a Wraith I took a stab at the hood last night and came close. I went ahead and ordered the body panel set AX04027 this morning.

10-23-2016, 04:03 PM	#15
Brake Weight I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South Posts: 3,444	Re: Parting together a Wraith I swapped the 100mm Wraith shocks out for a spare set of 90mm SCX shocks. I like the ride height a lot better but it caused my servo to not line up to pass inside the chassis. The Wraith shocks would bottom out before reaching this point. So I had to add 3 jam nuts and new m3 allthread to the links to push the axle far enough to pass. Then I had to extend the front bumper to allow the servo horn to pass. So I did some searching and was considering some Big Bores when I stumbled across the staggered length Yeti 380 shocks: 130mm and 95mm. I'll find two sets and use the shorter front shocks on the Wraith and the longer rear shocks on my R1 hybrid crawler. The longer shocks would let me mount them back at the normal spot instead of down low and should give me more stroke.

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10-26-2016, 09:57 AM	#16
Brake Weight I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South Posts: 3,444	Re: Parting together a Wraith My body came in a few days ago and I had an epiphany. I have a few more pieces of face shield and I will attempt to vacuum mold a hood and roof this afternoon. I've seen small bodies done DIY style pulled from die cast models. They used a thin lexan for those to get the bends and details. This is thick acrylic and won't have all the details of the original. I bought some plaster of Paris and poured some into the uncut panels last night. They're almost dry now and I need a skirt to attach around the acrylic to help suck it to the mold as I heat it.

10-26-2016, 02:49 PM	#17
Brake Weight I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South Posts: 3,444	Parting together a Wraith I didn't take any pics of actually doing it, just the finished hood. To be as thick as it is I think it worked out decent for a first try. Absolutely not the greatest but I'll take it for a first try. I've got enough left to hand cut the side panels. I'll see what my Lowes and Home Depot have to offer for maybe trying for another one. I spent about 10 minutes at the paint racks at my LHS and couldn't decide what to use. I'm going to rattle can bedliner a scrap piece and see how well it sticks and takes abuse. Last edited by Brake Weight; 12-14-2016 at 07:20 AM.

10-26-2016, 02:55 PM	#18
Brake Weight I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South Posts: 3,444	Re: Parting together a Wraith As for my short, front Yeti shocks all around. I'm going to buy some cheap GPM aluminum off of fleaBay and try them out. They listed them at 3.3", or 84mm. So I'd guess about 80mm eye to eye. A little shorter than I want, but at the price point I'll experiment.

10-28-2016, 05:40 PM	#19
Brake Weight I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South Posts: 3,444	Re: Parting together a Wraith I painted the made body yesterday. The details and crisp lines just aren't there but the shape is there. A female mold would do best. Oh, well...here it is anyway.

10-31-2016, 12:42 PM	#20
Brake Weight I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South Posts: 3,444	Re: Parting together a Wraith I swapped the shock oil out last night for some more viscous and it worked wonders for rebound bouncing. So I took it to a rock/dirt pile. It performed great. But took a tumble from the tip when I got greedy. Heated and shaped acrylic apparently shatters. Oh well.

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