RCCrawler Forums

Brake Weight · 02-12-2017, 07:58 AM

Nobody crawls around here. It'll be #1 vs #2. That's the only competition I can find back in these woods. The LHS is wall to wall Traxxas. Maybe this new release they have will generate some thing.

WHITE-TRASH · 02-12-2017, 08:06 AM

With 2 rigs maybe you can generate something. I'm building a "rental" sportsman rig to loan out to people interested in that side of the hobby. I've never even been to a comp myself.

Brake Weight · 02-13-2017, 04:52 PM

I picked up the wood bit and cut two tires this afternoon. I'll finish two more for a set, but I'm leaning towards the Rips more every day. I've got a Krawler and a Rip sitting on my bench on those 1" wheels to look at and the Rip just looks more aggressive.

And the Simple Green didn't do anything but make them smell better. I soaked one for about 3 hours, too. The heat from cutting the treads worked better.

Brake Weight · 02-17-2017, 11:07 AM

I couldn't wait for the front Yeti shocks to get here so I put my old Honcho set on.

Brake Weight · 02-23-2017, 03:26 PM

#2 got some Yeti shocks today.

Here's a Wraith, a Yeti front, and an SCX10 side by side. The springs are a Wraith and a Yeti front. 105, 93, & 90mm.

Here's the naked shocks for comparison.

WHITE-TRASH · 02-23-2017, 03:34 PM

What's the story on the ball/stand off on the scx shock?

Brake Weight · 02-23-2017, 04:10 PM

I bought a set of 8 HPI shocks and 4 of them had those. They're the same size and pop in/out just like the plastic Axial balls. I used them to space the shock tops away from the chassis.

WHITE-TRASH · 02-23-2017, 04:16 PM

Hmm off to google, those could prove to be pretty handy. There are traxxas aluminum but those don't like them.

Brake Weight · 02-23-2017, 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WHITE-TRASH

Hmm off to google, those could prove to be pretty handy. There are traxxas aluminum but those don't like them.

Let me help you.

WHITE-TRASH · 02-23-2017, 04:27 PM

Gracias!

Brake Weight · 03-31-2017, 12:55 PM

Hooooo-ooooooooooo

84yoda · 04-01-2017, 11:42 PM

Anyone find the part number for just those HPI ball/stand offs?

Brake Weight · 05-05-2017, 04:45 PM

Found chassis #3 yesterday and paid for it. Looks like it'll be a parts in dive on scx axles and 1.9 tires.

2000UZJ · 05-06-2017, 08:18 AM

Do you mind posting a picture of your front link/bumper setup? I'm building a Rubicon Wraith (same body) and the servo is hitting the body on compression. I'm trying to find a good workaround since I do not want to cut the grill of the body out to clear it. CMS is always an option, but it'd rather not for simplicity

Brake Weight · 05-06-2017, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2000UZJ

Do you mind posting a picture of your front link/bumper setup? I'm building a Rubicon Wraith (same body) and the servo is hitting the body on compression. I'm trying to find a good workaround since I do not want to cut the grill of the body out to clear it. CMS is always an option, but it'd rather not for simplicity

All that is stock aside from the hood mod. The hooks velcros down in the front and it sits maybe 1/8" higher.

Brake Weight · 08-26-2017, 03:46 PM

I was rooting around my cubby hole looking for some Shoe Goo to repair my Tear Into when I happened across 3 cans of camo spray paint. Never found the Shoe Goo but I did find a box with some stock Wraith body panels. Hmmm. Swapped wheels and tires for something more sticky, too.

After painting them I remembered why I put them away was due to the excess holes in the hood. Oh well, Luke and Butch don't care.

Did a hood mod with spares from a Yeti parts tree.

Motorider · 08-27-2017, 06:55 AM

How are you threading your stainless rod to make your own links

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Brake Weight · 08-27-2017, 07:29 AM

I bought a small metric tap/die set for all my RCs. I'll chuck the rod into my cordless drill the put the die into its wrench and run the rod into it as I hold it still with my feet. I'll mark the rod where I want to stop at so that the mark gets cut away with the die. Actually pretty simple to do once you figure out the measurements of it all. Now my DeWalt has had both batteries die I'm going to need another drill. I refuse to pay $80 for a single battery when I can get a new drill and two batteries for $40 more.

Edit: a bench vise would make it easier to do but I just do it from my rolling stool.

Farabomb · 08-27-2017, 08:36 AM

A tap and die set for all the screws on your RC is a good idea. Also I recently found out they make helicoils in 2x.5 and 3x.5 and they work well if you've stripped out the existing threads.

Cordless tool makers are like printer manufacturers. They sell the tools at pretty much a loss and then rape you on the price of consumables like batteries. They figure since you may have more than one tool that takes the battery you will buy the batteries instead of replacing all your tools.

MRCrackhead · 08-27-2017, 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brake Weight

After painting them I remembered why I put them away was due to the excess holes in the hood. Oh well, Luke and Butch don't care.

Mount a matching pair of 50 cal rifles in the extra holes and nobody will be the wiser.

Technically speaking, is it actually "camo" paint, or just 3 cans of paint???? LOL

Thanks for the shock comparison photos. Not to hijack here, but I'm currently trying to make a shock choice for my build. Very helpful.

02-12-2017, 07:58 AM	#21
Brake Weight I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South Posts: 3,444	Re: #2 Nobody crawls around here. It'll be #1 vs #2. That's the only competition I can find back in these woods. The LHS is wall to wall Traxxas. Maybe this new release they have will generate some thing.

02-12-2017, 08:06 AM	#22
WHITE-TRASH I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Tri-cities, WA Posts: 4,831	Re: #2 With 2 rigs maybe you can generate something. I'm building a "rental" sportsman rig to loan out to people interested in that side of the hobby. I've never even been to a comp myself.

02-13-2017, 04:52 PM	#23
Brake Weight I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South Posts: 3,444	#2 I picked up the wood bit and cut two tires this afternoon. I'll finish two more for a set, but I'm leaning towards the Rips more every day. I've got a Krawler and a Rip sitting on my bench on those 1" wheels to look at and the Rip just looks more aggressive. And the Simple Green didn't do anything but make them smell better. I soaked one for about 3 hours, too. The heat from cutting the treads worked better.

02-17-2017, 11:07 AM	#24
Brake Weight I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South Posts: 3,444	#2 I couldn't wait for the front Yeti shocks to get here so I put my old Honcho set on.

02-23-2017, 03:26 PM	#25
Brake Weight I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South Posts: 3,444	Re: #2 #2 got some Yeti shocks today. Here's a Wraith, a Yeti front, and an SCX10 side by side. The springs are a Wraith and a Yeti front. 105, 93, & 90mm. Here's the naked shocks for comparison.

02-23-2017, 03:34 PM	#26
WHITE-TRASH I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Tri-cities, WA Posts: 4,831	Re: #2 What's the story on the ball/stand off on the scx shock?

02-23-2017, 04:10 PM	#27
Brake Weight I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South Posts: 3,444	Re: #2 I bought a set of 8 HPI shocks and 4 of them had those. They're the same size and pop in/out just like the plastic Axial balls. I used them to space the shock tops away from the chassis.

02-23-2017, 04:16 PM	#28
WHITE-TRASH I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Tri-cities, WA Posts: 4,831	Re: #2 Hmm off to google, those could prove to be pretty handy. There are traxxas aluminum but those don't like them.

02-23-2017, 04:27 PM	#30
WHITE-TRASH I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Tri-cities, WA Posts: 4,831	Re: #2 Gracias!

03-31-2017, 12:55 PM	#31
Brake Weight I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South Posts: 3,444	Re: #2 Hooooo-ooooooooooo

04-01-2017, 11:42 PM	#32
84yoda I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Roseville, Ca Posts: 2,506	Re: #2 Anyone find the part number for just those HPI ball/stand offs?

05-05-2017, 04:45 PM	#33
Brake Weight I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South Posts: 3,444	#2 Found chassis #3 yesterday and paid for it. Looks like it'll be a parts in dive on scx axles and 1.9 tires.

05-06-2017, 08:18 AM	#34
2000UZJ Newbie Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Atlanta Posts: 36	Re: #2 Do you mind posting a picture of your front link/bumper setup? I'm building a Rubicon Wraith (same body) and the servo is hitting the body on compression. I'm trying to find a good workaround since I do not want to cut the grill of the body out to clear it. CMS is always an option, but it'd rather not for simplicity

08-26-2017, 03:46 PM	#36
Brake Weight I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South Posts: 3,444	#2 I was rooting around my cubby hole looking for some Shoe Goo to repair my Tear Into when I happened across 3 cans of camo spray paint. Never found the Shoe Goo but I did find a box with some stock Wraith body panels. Hmmm. Swapped wheels and tires for something more sticky, too. After painting them I remembered why I put them away was due to the excess holes in the hood. Oh well, Luke and Butch don't care. Did a hood mod with spares from a Yeti parts tree. Last edited by Brake Weight; 08-26-2017 at 04:15 PM.

08-27-2017, 06:55 AM	#37
Motorider Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Paola, ks Posts: 925	Re: #2 How are you threading your stainless rod to make your own links Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

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08-27-2017, 07:29 AM	#38
Brake Weight I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Deep South Posts: 3,444	#2 I bought a small metric tap/die set for all my RCs. I'll chuck the rod into my cordless drill the put the die into its wrench and run the rod into it as I hold it still with my feet. I'll mark the rod where I want to stop at so that the mark gets cut away with the die. Actually pretty simple to do once you figure out the measurements of it all. Now my DeWalt has had both batteries die I'm going to need another drill. I refuse to pay $80 for a single battery when I can get a new drill and two batteries for $40 more. Edit: a bench vise would make it easier to do but I just do it from my rolling stool. Last edited by Brake Weight; 08-27-2017 at 07:31 AM.

08-27-2017, 08:36 AM	#39
Farabomb Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: NNJ in the sticks Posts: 210	Re: #2 A tap and die set for all the screws on your RC is a good idea. Also I recently found out they make helicoils in 2x.5 and 3x.5 and they work well if you've stripped out the existing threads. Cordless tool makers are like printer manufacturers. They sell the tools at pretty much a loss and then rape you on the price of consumables like batteries. They figure since you may have more than one tool that takes the battery you will buy the batteries instead of replacing all your tools.

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