Wraith based Rock Bouncer

[Steve g]

Any videos up yet? Probably gonna get roasted for saying this, but I put 80/90w gear oil in my wraith shocks and I love how it handles now. But it's not nearly as powerful as yours. Doubt it'll go much more then 10mph

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

[Brake Weight]

It’s not all about the wheel speed. Although it helps sometimes...often.

[mewalsh100]

Originally Posted by Steve g

Any videos up yet? Probably gonna get roasted for saying this, but I put 80/90w gear oil in my wraith shocks and I love how it handles now. But it's not nearly as powerful as yours. Doubt it'll go much more then 10mph

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

Not yet. I've been side-tracked for the past few days with a bunch of work stuff. I'll get to it. As far as the oil, i'm all for experimenting. As long as you like how it's performing that's what counts.

[mewalsh100]

Originally Posted by Brake Weight

It’s not all about the wheel speed. Although it helps sometimes...often.

I do like me some wheel speed. It's just kind of that extra resource that you have in the arsenal when ya need it!

[mewalsh100]

So, here are some updates on the carnage so far. Blown right front CVD. Stripped the stock lockers in front and rear, 3 more broken rod ends on the Yeti aluminum trailing arms. Other than that.......

Going to order up some Incision lockers today, new set of CVDs, and I think I'm going to just go back to the plastic, one piece Yeti trailing arms for now.

I did also put some new RSD 100mm shocks on the rig, and it's much more stable now. We'll see how they perform as far as the travel in the rocks. If they don't work out, I may go back to the Kings and play around with droop kits to get the ride height where I want which I think will help stability (lower CG) while maintaining gobs of travel.

[jstein87]

Originally Posted by Crawler Cads

I can't answer your question, but can I ask why you want to use trailing arms in the first place? Is there a performance improvement going this route or is just cosmetic?
I ask because I'm redoing my son's Wraith into more of a rock racer than crawler and if I'm missing something obvious I'd like to know about it!
Thanks.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Moving the shock and spring to the trailing arm v the axle adds leverage to the spring. Moving it up on the trailing arm from the axle should make it feel softer, due to the leverage. One of the main advantages of running a shock on a trailing arm is you can get more wheel travel for a given amount of shock travel. 4" of shock travel mounted on the wheel may only be 4" total of wheel travel. Move the shock up the arm and 4" of shock travel becomes a function of the amount of arc movement (all links travel in an arc). When mounted up on the trailing arm you'll end up with more wheel travel than you have shock travel. Probably the reason you see this setup is used on go fast rigs like RZR's and trophy trucks. TC's newest rock bouncer uses this set up as well.

[mewalsh100]

Finally got this pig back on the trail/rocks. Installed the new Incision lockers, 43/13 gearing in both pumpkins. (Was previously 38/13 in both). I chose not to go with Under and Over in this rig. My thought process being that it already turns pretty darn well, and with the 4100kv monster sitting in it, the gear down on both ends would help with start up. I was definitely correct on that. There is a marked increase in the smoothness at low speed start up versus previous. I also threw the Plastic OE Yeti trailing arms back on. As I mentioned in my previous post, even the slightest tumbles and end-overs saw me breaking the rod ends right off the aluminum units. Had the exact same issue with the aluminum units on my Baja Rey. The plastic units are actually quite stiff, and I figure for the cost, I can replace them whenever they start getting blown out.

I also got the G-Made RSD shocks installed at all 4 corners. I'm liking the shorter travel and the stance is good. Shake down run also went well. My only beef would be the rebound on these right now. Waaaaaay too fast / bouncy. I used the oil they sent with them, and it seemed real thin, but I figured I'd give it a go. I definitely need to play around with oil weight to get them where I want them. If I had to make a guess, I'd say the oil they ship with these is about 20W. I'm going to jump up to 50W and see what I think.

Finally, I played around with throttle curve and other set-ups in Castle Link. I'm sure this helped with both start up and punch as well. Still need to dial in brake force and drag brake, but getting close. BTW- Even with the gear down, she's still fast as a scolded monkey on meth!

As always, I'll post updates as I go. Have not been able to spend much time on here lately though as work has been crazy and way too many projects at home.

[PoorManRC]

Hey Mike, just taking a moment to check in...
She's looking GOOD!!! One tough looking Bouncer!!

One thing... Since those Trailing Arms are not only subject to torsional and lateral Loads, AND because a Trailing Arm is by design, a lever for the Spring Action.... You're probably going to break MORE of those Ends!

You might want to consider spending the big bux on a pair of Vanquish Yeti or Rock Rey Lower Arms. You ARE throwing some serious Power at her!!

OK, back to my box!

[mewalsh100]

Tried as I might, I could not get the RSD shocks to work worth a chit on this thing! Different weight oils, different pre-loads, different positions on the chassis. Bottom line was, the rebound was just too damn fast no matter what I tried. Like freak'n pogo sticks on all 4 corners.

Anyway, I ordered up some love for the 1.9 truggy (new shocks). So, I swiped the Traxxas Ultras off of it, and on to the Rock Bouncer they went. NIGHT and DAY difference! Stable at speed, now pogo'ing, good rebound, just 100% better! They look way more at home on this big ol beast too then they ever did on the truggy. They worked real well on it, but had zero scale factor for that rig.

I'm still getting some cogging on low speed start up, but that's down to the 4100kv 540-L Puller Pro! It's better with the 43/13 I threw in both the front and rear, but could stand some improvement. I'm down to the smallest pinion I can put on the motor though. May have to try and find a larger spur gear.

[mewalsh100]

Also did a little chassis surgery tonight. The rear cage had a lower section that was not structural at all. With the Yeti trailing arms being longer, the rear axle pumpkin would come up and smack that part of the frame when both shocks were trying to compress. It made a rather heinous clanging noise when it did too and it was driving me nuts. It was ok under flex situations, but off jumps and drops when both shocks took a load evenly it would make that awful racket.

So, I chopped that little section out, and then I took the other section and put a bend on it to kick it up in the back. Problem solved, and it kinda gives it a little bit of a fast back look to boot!

[ussprinceton2004]

is this a Southern thing?

[Jim85IROC]

How are your stock trailing arms holding up? My Bomber has way less power than your vehicle, and my Bomber is a Kit so I've got the metal reinforcements on the trailing arms, but I still managed to get the arms to fatigue and flex like crazy between the front of the reinforcements and the ball end. On your vehicle those things must be pretzeling.

[dondraper25]

I use all straight links with my Wraith. I don’t get on here much any more. If you’re interested in seeing trailing arm suspensions on my rigs. I’m on Instagram and Facebook under the moniker nick.rccommand


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mewalsh100]

Originally Posted by Jim85IROC

How are your stock trailing arms holding up? My Bomber has way less power than your vehicle, and my Bomber is a Kit so I've got the metal reinforcements on the trailing arms, but I still managed to get the arms to fatigue and flex like crazy between the front of the reinforcements and the ball end. On your vehicle those things must be pretzeling.

They're actually holding up really well. I initially installed the SSD aluminum units. But, as I mentioned earlier in the post, the slightest tumble or end over would see the rod ends snapping off. So, back to the one piece plastics. There durable enough, and cheap to replace as they get fatigued / sloppy.

[mewalsh100]

Originally Posted by ussprinceton2004

is this a Southern thing?

In the 1:1 world, I would say yes. At least that's where the origins of these types of rigs started in my understanding.

[mikemcE]

Originally Posted by ussprinceton2004

is this a Southern thing?

MEH........ not really. I’m waaaaay south, But all we have here is swamps and flat sand. If you go north into Georgia, Tenn, Virginia, they have mountains, hollers, and red clay. But I never saw these in Wisconsin


Hang up and Drive

[mewalsh100]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

MEH........ not really. I’m waaaaay south, But all we have here is swamps and flat sand. If you go north into Georgia, Tenn, Virginia, they have mountains, hollers, and red clay. But I never saw these in Wisconsin


Hang up and Drive

Yeah, but anything is “South” from Ohio!

[mikemcE]

Yep, but I’m so far south, we aren’t even rednecks. Florida Crackers....
Google the why on crackers, good read!


Hang up and Drive

[mewalsh100]

Welp, after countless repairs from the insane torque and power, and also never being able to fully eliminate the cogging on start up, I've decided to pull the 4100kv Puller Pro R out of the Rockbouncer. The latest carnage was twisted axles on the front CVD's and the rear axles. Think twizzlers and you get the idea. Going in I knew this thing was going to eat a few parts, but geesh! I think I may throw the motor in the Losi Baja Rey and see how I like it on the go-fast rig.

Having said all that, I'm going to pull the trigger on another HH Brushless motor as I have them in all my rigs and love them. Kicking around what kv rating I want to go to though. Running the 3500kv PullerPro in my Wraith, and I love that. Running the 3300kv Stubby in the Truggy, and also loving that.

The bouncer is sporting the same Spur / Pinion combo as the Wraith - 32p 56/10. However, the bouncer is also running 43/13 in both axles, whereas the Wraith is running 38/13 front and 43/13 rear. I'm thinking with the even lower final ratios in the Bouncer, I could definitely use a 3500kv in it, but a part of me wants to check out the lower 2700kv unit.

Any thoughts guys?

[Crawler Cads]

I have a Castle 1410-3800 in my Bomber with 64/10 pinion spur, stock diffs.
Runs like a dream on 3s, good low down and I never get to top speed (due to skill more than environment!).
Had a really good forest blast the other day and didn't get hot at all which was a really pleasant surprise
Have you tried a wider pinion spur ratio to see if you can keep that motor in? Might save you some $$

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk