New to the Wraith Scene....So Questions

[Jbtamu1011]

Hey yall,

I just recently purchased a Spawn Wraith. Loving the platform and capability!! I used to have a SCX10 back in 2014 but got rid of it. So the Wraith is my first vehicle back into the hobby.

I'm already changing the style of it up and doing mods, which is so much fun! And that leads me to some questions. I've italized and colored the questions.

Axles:
- I don't see many aftermarket axles for sale on RPP or Amain. All out of stock. I see parts like the
tubes, link brackets, etc. Is it really necessary to upgrade the stock axles? I know that would add more
weight down low but I have heavy links already and getting VP wheels.
- I do have the VP Stage 1 upgrades on the way as well. I've heard that's a good upgrade right away for
strength.
- Anything I need to be on the lookout for with these?

Electronics/Battery
- Running stock ESC/Motor with 3S Lipo. Plenty of grunt and speed for it. I
think I'll keep it as brushed for now even when this motor is toast.
Probably step up to a Holmes Hobby. Any 540 recommendations?
- Battery upgrade is moving it to the front. Bought a Protek shorty pack
that's 3S and 4100mah.
- Ecopower WP120T Servo. It freezes up on me some. I think because it
needs more juice and the stock ESC isn't cutting it. I just got my BEC
though. It's a HeyOk No Brainer. Hope it works well
- Placement of the electronics is a bit dumb founding since I'm moving the
battery forward. What's some good options for different sealed electronic
boxes?

Body/Cage
- I did the free fastback mod, just gotta clean up the areas I cut.
- Looking to update interior so I can put my drive figure in.
- Do I need to put a post or something else between the shock mounts to
strengthen it since I won't have the battery tray?
- Need to cut the hood so I can get the battery so I don't have to take the body off. Hoping some body
posts I bought will work. I think they were actually made for a plane or helicopter.

Tires/Wheels
- Stock tires are great, but not scale enough for me. I will use these as backup.
- Ordered some RC4WD Goodyear Wrangler MT/R's. Love the look in real life and love the scale look.
- Ordered some VP Method 101 wheels with .475 hubs.
- Anything I need to be on the lookout for with these?

Suspension
- Running stock shocks with stock springs that came out of the box.
- Upgraded all links and tie rods to Incisions

That's all I can think of that I've done and all the questions as of now. I'll post some pictures when I get some time.

[moondaddy]

Just a few quick answers. You don't need to upgrade the stock housings but would highly recommend beef tubes axle tubes. Either brass, steel, or aluminum just get them. My spawn has tumbled about 60ft down a steep hill and only killed my servo output. Would have thrashed both housings if it wasn't for the beef tubes.

Skip the electronics box and just get conformal coating. A bottle will last you quite a long time and saves you some space.

Wheel tire combo will be fine but be warned if you decide to go with a dual stage foam like crawler innovations you will have to shave down the closed cell inner foam to get the tires to mount on narrow wheels.

You could run a brace between rear upper shock mounts but I don't think it's necessary.

Few tips would be look for or make an electronics plate/battery holder for under the hood. Flip rear upper shock mount and lower shock/link mounts. Mount front shocks in rear most hole and rears in front hole. Will sacrifice a little belly clearance but give much more stability. Lastly if you haven't already drop down to a 10 tooth pinion, your motor will thank you.

Sent from my LM-Q720 using Tapatalk

[Voodoobrew]

Everyone likes the hobbywing 1080 esc for the price and features over stock. And it has the juice to power all but the biggest servos.

Wraith axles are called "ar60" so search for that, upgrades are mostly unnecessary, but if the dogbones break get universals.

Underdrive in the rear can help you turn sharper.

__________________________
Handy gearing spreadsheet

[Jbtamu1011]

Originally Posted by moondaddy

Just a few quick answers. You don't need to upgrade the stock housings but would highly recommend beef tubes axle tubes. Either brass, steel, or aluminum just get them. My spawn has tumbled about 60ft down a steep hill and only killed my servo output. Would have thrashed both housings if it wasn't for the beef tubes.

Those just slide in the housing right?

Originally Posted by moondaddy

Skip the electronics box and just get conformal coating. A bottle will last you quite a long time and saves you some space.

I'll look into that.

Originally Posted by moondaddy

Few tips would be look for or make an electronics plate/battery holder for under the hood. Flip rear upper shock mount and lower shock/link mounts. Mount front shocks in rear most hole and rears in front hole. Will sacrifice a little belly clearance but give much more stability. Lastly if you haven't already drop down to a 10 tooth pinion, your motor will thank you.

Sent from my LM-Q720 using Tapatalk

I just got a BP Custom battery tray for the holder and place to put ESC.
I am a bit confused on the switching of the shock mounts and shocks. Is this a common mod?

[Jbtamu1011]

Originally Posted by Voodoobrew

Everyone likes the hobbywing 1080 esc for the price and features over stock. And it has the juice to power all but the biggest servos.

Wraith axles are called "ar60" so search for that, upgrades are mostly unnecessary, but if the dogbones break get universals.

Underdrive in the rear can help you turn sharper.

__________________________
Handy gearing spreadsheet

Thanks, voodoo. I've been eyeing the 1080 and see that ESC named in things I watch or see.

How do you do underdrive? I'm so out of the loop. Are there topics on that in the forum?

[nightcrawler48]

The stock gears for the AR60 axles are a 38T crown gear and a 13T pinion gear. The optional gears to underdrive the rear axle are a 43T crown gear and 13T pinion gear. The alternative is to overdrive the front axle with a 36T crown gear and a 14T pinion gear. Some of the comp guys I know will do both, overdrive front and underdrive rear. If you're on a surface with lots of grip, the overdrive/underdrive combo can be a little hard on drivetrain components.

The stock shocks will drive you crazy after a while. Leak like a sieve. At one time the go to shocks for replacement were the Traxxas Big Bores, 4962. Haven't seen too much discussion on these lately and they've almost doubled in price in the last year or so. Other manufacturers have stepped up and lots of other alternatives these days. Can't say too much as I haven't changed from my Traxxas and still liking them.

[odomandr]

Harley posted a wraith upgrade series that was a great read. I think it is stickied

[nightcrawler48]

I just noticed you're running a 3s battery. At some point, probably sooner than later, you will strip the plastic transmission gears so might be an idea to have some metal replacement gears on hand. Robinson Racing is one of the best. #1551 for the idler gear and #1552 for the bottom gear. You may see some replacement gear kits that have all 3 gears. The top gear is already metal and I've never had a problem with using the Axial top gear and the Robinson racing idler and bottom gears so save a bit and only buy the 2 gears.

[Jbtamu1011]

Originally Posted by nightcrawler48

I just noticed you're running a 3s battery. At some point, probably sooner than later, you will strip the plastic transmission gears so might be an idea to have some metal replacement gears on hand. Robinson Racing is one of the best. #1551 for the idler gear and #1552 for the bottom gear. You may see some replacement gear kits that have all 3 gears. The top gear is already metal and I've never had a problem with using the Axial top gear and the Robinson racing idler and bottom gears so save a bit and only buy the 2 gears.

Thanks for the heads up!! I'm putting together a cart on RPP with some of these items mentioned. I'll add that.

[Jbtamu1011]

I might add these tires to my options depending on terrain. I've seen them on 1:1 rock bouncers and they look mean.

https://www.ottsix.com/product-page/...s-not-included

[Myndefuk]

If you're going to keep it brushed, I would highly recommend the Traxxas 21t Titan motor. I run mine on 3s with a 14t pinion. No problems.

[Jbtamu1011]

Originally Posted by Myndefuk

If you're going to keep it brushed, I would highly recommend the Traxxas 21t Titan motor. I run mine on 3s with a 14t pinion. No problems.

I'm gonna run the stocks stuff until it can't

Then, I'm gonna stay brushed but I want a little less speed than the 20t that's in it and have more crawling ability. That Titan is a 550 motor, which I want to stay with the 540 size.

[nightcrawler48]

Sounds like 3s lipo does make for a little more speed than you're wanting for slow crawling. You can slow it down without initially changing the motor. Stock transmission spur gear should be 56T and motor pinion should be 12T. Cheap and easy change would be a 9T, 10T, or 11T motor pinion. The Spawn is 32P gears. I did use the 9T at one time but it wasn't very smooth. 10T worked better. I've had good luck with Robinson Racing pinions. Motor shaft is 3mm diameter.

I might be mistaken but I thought there was some mods required to run a 550 motor but now I can't find any info on that. Maybe someone running a 550 can let us know what's required, if anything.

[Steve g]

Just a little trimming of the link mount is needed, the longer 550 motor hits it. Or you could riase the transmission a little, i chose to trim the mount myself.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

[Myndefuk]

Yep. Clearanced the link mount slightly. Fits fine. Like I said, I run a 14t pinion and it crawls well and can still bash around ok. Motor barely gets warm. The 540 motors I ran seemed to get real hot with even lower gearing.

[Jbtamu1011]

Which of the Holmes brushed 550 motors would you suggest? Torquemaster Expert 550 21t or Crawlmaster Sport 550 12t? Like I said, not really looking for bashing speed. Somewhere in the ballpark of just outpacing me while walking yet still will have enough wheel speed and torque to crawl over stuff. I've read the thread about motor and gearing that is stickied. Kind of relevant and kind of needs updating. I just got more confused after reading it all.

[Jbtamu1011]

So i just burnt through the stock tactic servo. I also have a EcoPower WP120T that has enough torque but locks up. It always seems both servos turned perfectly in one direction and the other direction was weak or didn't turn the wheels at all. Both servos acted like this. My trim was in the middle and end points set accordingly. I do have another servo coming in the mail, a holmes hobby. I do have a BEC and stock ESC, tactic transmitter and receiver.

Im sure the knuckles and rods are not in a bind.

Is it a transmitter and receiver issue? Or do I just have 2 bad servos?

Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

[Myndefuk]

Here’s my advice: Titan 21T 550, AE5 or HW1080, and PowerHD 23kg servo. These parts are cheap, tough, and I’ve beat the hell out of them. Yes, you can spend way more on better components, but these are the best budget electronics I’ve found.

[Jbtamu1011]

Originally Posted by Myndefuk

Here’s my advice: Titan 21T 550, AE5 or HW1080, and PowerHD 23kg servo. These parts are cheap, tough, and I’ve beat the hell out of them. Yes, you can spend way more on better components, but these are the best budget electronics I’ve found.

Well, I definitely have the hw1080 on my wish list.

I just don't have a clue why both servos wouldn't turn one way as well as the other. No matter if I buy the cheapest or the most expensive, I don't want it to die either.

Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

[Fricker08]

Hey just making sure, it does turn all the way one way but not the other? I had an issue where it would barely turn either way. Tried multiple servos and what not. Turns out my radio was in the bag and something adjusted the steering d/r or steering dual rate knob. Which is next to the steering and throttle trim knobs. A good way to test the servo is hook it into the throttle channel on the receiver and see if the gas and brake makes the thing turn more than with the wheel if that makes sense.