08-31-2010, 12:15 AM | #101 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Pacific Ocean
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08-31-2010, 12:38 AM | #102 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Germany north
Posts: 1,669
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you should drill the plate out to 10mm and use a 10x5 flanged, it´s way stronger but it will work for the long shaft may work for the bearing from the 30556 gear too , but i´m not sure about the distance to the screw |
08-31-2010, 01:16 AM | #103 |
Shelf queen Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Internet
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08-31-2010, 11:43 AM | #104 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Pacific Ocean
Posts: 2,342
| Just ordered the bearings, thanks for the idea. I'm going to go with a 10x5x4 which is thicker than the stock 2.5 too. Hopefully it all fits ok, we'll see.
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08-31-2010, 12:31 PM | #105 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Seattle
Posts: 167
| What size bearings?
I'd like to order some spare/replacement bearings now so I don't end up breaking one and being out of commission for several days while I wait for replacements to arrive. Any chance one of you (dpdsurf ) could list out some of the more error-prone bearings that would be worth having on hand? Any other spare parts worth pre-ordering? This is my first comp crawler so I plan to beat the crap out of it unintentionally. Thanks! |
08-31-2010, 12:36 PM | #106 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Pacific Ocean
Posts: 2,342
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Metal shield is what comes from the factory which makes the most sense. You're not going to get much dirt inside the gear box and they withstand heat better. I just ordered these which is the stock size (5x8x2.5 flanged, 3 ea. per axle); http://www.avidrc.com/product/8/metr...-bearings.html I also ordered these for the shaft (going with ceramic made me feel better, I don't know if it's necessary though)(5x8x2.5, 1 ea. per axle) ; http://www.avidrc.com/product/8/metr...-bearings.html ...and after EGRESSor's sugestion, I just ordered these which will require drilling out the holes in the aluminum motor plate. (5x10x4 flanged, 3 ea. per axle); http://www.avidrc.com/product/8/metr...-bearings.html Last edited by dpdsurf; 08-31-2010 at 12:58 PM. |
08-31-2010, 01:51 PM | #107 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Seattle
Posts: 167
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Thank you, sir!
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09-06-2010, 12:23 PM | #108 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Pacific Ocean
Posts: 2,342
| Almost readyfor Nats
I've been scrambling to get this thing ready for Nats this week. One thing that was nagging me was the lower links with 3mm rod ends. The stock links are good but do not stand the test of time with my abusive driving. I've broken 3 rod ends so far. I have found that 4mm Revo rod ends on lower links are almost bullet proof. The only time I ever broke one is when I was carrying my rig and took a tumble and instinctively I through my rig about 20'. I also have all aluminum upper links now. Over time the stock plastic links got a little too flexy for my liking. For the lower links I am using Lunsford TI rock grinders. The fronts are 125mm with a 30* bend in the front to accommodate the horizontal link mount unique to the front axle. They are bent 30*+ at the main bend. (The rod end that mounts to the axle had to be shaved a little to fit.) Total i2i = 137mm The rears are 130mm bent 45* at the main bend. I also added the 30* lower bend here as well so it ramps up at the motor better. Total i2i = 137mm Wheelbase is exactly 12.5" measured per USRCCA rules. I also made a new electronics tray to get everything as low as possible. I had to grind my electronic tray a little more due to the extreme bend in the rear links pushing them up further. I really like the stance and it's breaking over things it was hanging up on with ease now. Last edited by dpdsurf; 09-06-2010 at 12:40 PM. |
09-06-2010, 01:11 PM | #109 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Farmington, NM
Posts: 1,026
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Nice job on those links man.
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09-06-2010, 08:43 PM | #110 |
Im Brandon Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Colfax, CA
Posts: 8,156
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Looking good Dave! See you at nats |
09-06-2010, 10:37 PM | #111 |
Ex Nor-CalRCRC slave Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: San Mateo, CA.
Posts: 2,242
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What are them thar body mounts? (I gotta get off my ass and get the XR-10 mount kit ready now)
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09-07-2010, 12:46 AM | #112 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2008 Location: Clarkston
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09-07-2010, 12:50 AM | #113 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Pacific Ocean
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09-07-2010, 01:00 AM | #114 |
Ex Nor-CalRCRC slave Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: San Mateo, CA.
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The Ti links look nice, I'm going to experiment with some different bends myself. My "10" is mostly done, just have to make up the elec. tray(sorta like yours, much easier to fab) I'll figure out a few different kinds of mount kits next week. The stock mounts are cool, but just too many little parts to mess with. My bad luck, the little rubber plug for the rear axle was not in my kit |
09-07-2010, 01:07 AM | #115 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Pacific Ocean
Posts: 2,342
| Quote:
The cutting break plug is plastic and there are two of them on one of the plastic parts trees. | |
09-07-2010, 01:26 AM | #116 |
Ex Nor-CalRCRC slave Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: San Mateo, CA.
Posts: 2,242
| Yea, just looked at the manual, my rear axle cases were loose in the bag when I opened my kit, I did not find the parts tree-AX80065. no biggie, just a small piece of tape to cover it. Actually, a number of the larger parts were loose from the trees, I think someone shook the hell out of the box before it went on the boat |
09-07-2010, 01:58 PM | #117 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Pacific Ocean
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Hey everyone just a heads up that I pulled both of the axles apart last night to give them one more inspection before Nats. The rear was in great shape and I reassembled. The front had not been touched since the initial build. It was also working and sounding smooth. But upon inspection to my surprise the same two bearings that gave out in the rear were gone. Hopefully the Avid bearings are of more quality but when I return home I will be adding the 10mm bearings for sure. They look huge next to the 8's. I couldn't find a 10mm drill bit anywhere so I couldn't do the mod in time. EDIT: One more thing, after the bearing gives out on the drive gear shaft it makes it so the new bearing does not easiliy slide over the shaft. I placed the shaft in my drill and took some 600 sand paper to it and then polished it with a green scotch brite pad. Last edited by dpdsurf; 09-07-2010 at 02:05 PM. |
09-07-2010, 02:01 PM | #118 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: California
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