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Old 11-07-2010, 06:21 AM   #61
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Here's a good tip for bullet proof steering

Everyone has probably already changed their rod ends to 4mm revos, and that's what I used here too (Tra5347).

The steering drag link is 1/4" steel round stock, bent, drilled, and tapped to 4mm (Local Hardware Store)

My measurement after bends is 147.5mm - bare link end to end (Not eye to eye)

Measures 180mm eye to eye w/ bends and revo ends w/ V.P. Knuckles & Chubs (Same length for straight as well)

The servo link is made from a 4mm lunsford ti turnbuckle and traxxas jato rod ends (tra5525)

Link doesn't drag and barely hangs as you can see in pic. And I chose steel because it's not soft like aluminum and will slide over rocks easily






Last edited by Rig Rocker; 11-23-2010 at 10:55 AM.
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Old 11-16-2010, 05:36 PM   #62
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Arrow Axial set-up sheets

Scott, Brandon and myself just posted our XR10 set-up sheets on Axial's website on the instructions page.

My set-up:
http://www.axialracing.com/ftp/pdfs/...psheet_web.pdf

Scott's set-up:
http://www.axialracing.com/ftp/pdfs/...psheet_web.pdf

Brandon's set-up:
http://www.axialracing.com/ftp/pdfs/...psheet_web.pdf
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:44 PM   #63
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For those who are using Losi springs they are loose on the Axial cups. The Losi spring cups will work just great
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Old 11-24-2010, 06:02 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by losiking1 View Post
For those who are using Losi springs they are loose on the Axial cups. The Losi spring cups will work just great
Good tip, I had the same "problem" but I just use my pliers to make last coil little smaller. It helped also.

Small cut of shrink tube over cup and spring keep your cups safe. They tend to loose sometime.
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Old 11-24-2010, 07:00 PM   #65
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Also if you have really small zip-ties, you can zip-tie the spring to the lower retainer.
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Old 11-26-2010, 10:58 PM   #66
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EDIT. This ended up not working. Delete

Last edited by Chris_The_Battery_Man; 11-28-2010 at 12:29 AM.
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Old 11-28-2010, 09:34 PM   #67
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What's this knuckle mod I hear people talking about to get more steering?(How you do it)
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Old 11-28-2010, 10:02 PM   #68
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Quote:
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What's this knuckle mod I hear people talking about to get more steering?(How you do it)
go to the bathroom and stand infront of the mirror and punch your self in the face
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Old 11-28-2010, 10:03 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepersCreepers View Post
go to the bathroom and stand infront of the mirror and punch your self in the face
Wait this ended up not working , please don't try
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Old 11-28-2010, 10:13 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepersCreepers View Post
go to the bathroom and stand infront of the mirror and punch your self in the face
If there is no knuckle mod than just say there isn't. No need to act like a jackass...
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Old 11-29-2010, 03:59 PM   #71
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Oh, but there is.TONS of steering with stock parts!
Dont punk yourself in the face. Do what is in the thread above.
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Old 12-14-2010, 11:54 PM   #72
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If you clock the front inner C's back all the way (most amount of caster possible), you get the most amount of steering with stock components without the tires stuffing into the links/shocks. My Rovers barely rub the links now after clocking the C's back and that's full steering lock to lock with stock wheels.
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Old 12-23-2010, 12:43 AM   #73
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Default Need help with the Electronics

Hi,

This is Imran here from Mumbai, India.
I have just recently puchased a XR10 and am still in the building process.
My setup is FX-R X 2 with tekin 55t motors.
I am facing extreme difficulty in getting the electronics in place. Would be grateful if someone could post zoomed in pics of their radio tray just to elaborate and help me how the wiring is to be placed and concealed.

Thanks

Imran
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Old 12-25-2010, 10:30 PM   #74
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i found that you should shim the front/rear upper links on the Axle side... i fear that tightening it down too much will have some drawbacks.
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Old 12-25-2010, 11:20 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xplosifly View Post
Hi,

This is Imran here from Mumbai, India.
I have just recently puchased a XR10 and am still in the building process.
My setup is FX-R X 2 with tekin 55t motors.
I am facing extreme difficulty in getting the electronics in place. Would be grateful if someone could post zoomed in pics of their radio tray just to elaborate and help me how the wiring is to be placed and concealed.

Thanks

Imran
hello Imran,

the Tekin FXR should fit cleanly, with the Dual ESC mount for the electrics plate... as for wiring i just see people try to do it their own way.. either messy, or clean. whatever works
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Old 12-26-2010, 03:04 PM   #76
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Thought Id post this for anyone running Dirty Harry's up front but wishing their track width was narrower. I switched out my hex' to some CKRC's and lost over a 1/4".

http://www.ckrccrawlers.com/ckrc-alu...t2-p-2539.html


Last edited by slowngreen; 08-21-2011 at 11:38 PM.
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Old 01-18-2011, 01:09 PM   #77
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Clipless xr-10 body mount:
the clipless options.

Materials needed:
time: about 5min, + time to go to osh or local hardware
money: about $8-9 depends on location and tax
hands or needle nose pliers

3 nylon screws, 5/16 X (your option in length) im using 1 inch for a really low body
6 nylon nuts, 5/16

i found out the 5/16 fits really snug with the axial stock body mount option, i used that and got the 5/16, it screws in too. with the 2 nuts per 1 screw, use the 1 screw to hold the body in position and the other to actually hold onto the body
So i went to osh to pick up the screws and nuts:


Screws with Serial number:


Nuts with Serial Number:


After finished:
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Old 01-18-2011, 03:46 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xplosifly View Post
Hi,

This is Imran here from Mumbai, India.
I have just recently puchased a XR10 and am still in the building process.
My setup is FX-R X 2 with tekin 55t motors.
I am facing extreme difficulty in getting the electronics in place. Would be grateful if someone could post zoomed in pics of their radio tray just to elaborate and help me how the wiring is to be placed and concealed.

Thanks

Imran
this how i did mine.



i mounted them on a custom electronics tray i made out of fiberglass and epoxy blend. i used the stock axial esc mount then mounted it to the tray. hope this helps. good luck
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Old 01-30-2011, 08:11 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRCCRAWLER1.9 View Post
Clipless xr-10 body mount:
the clipless options.

Materials needed:
time: about 5min, + time to go to osh or local hardware
money: about $8-9 depends on location and tax
hands or needle nose pliers

3 nylon screws, 5/16 X (your option in length) im using 1 inch for a really low body
6 nylon nuts, 5/16

i found out the 5/16 fits really snug with the axial stock body mount option, i used that and got the 5/16, it screws in too. with the 2 nuts per 1 screw, use the 1 screw to hold the body in position and the other to actually hold onto the body
So i went to osh to pick up the screws and nuts:


Screws with Serial number:


Nuts with Serial Number:


After finished:
another idea is to look in the rubber washer section of a hard rubber tapper washer that is 1 size to small that will allow the threads to bite into the rubber.
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Old 01-31-2011, 05:02 PM   #80
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Zip ties from shock cup to spring won't do any good. The spring has an open end and will work it's way out of the zip tie.
You need to close the opening in the spring cup. If your cup don't have slots or holes in them, make some. Then run the zip tie from one hole to the other to close the opening in the cup and you won't lose the cup unless the zip tie breaks.
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