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11-10-2010, 11:06 PM | #1 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2007 Location: home
Posts: 369
| Chaotic Crawlers XR10 Single Steering Tierod!!
So I picked up a little something from Chaotic Crawlers today. Ever since I built my XR I wanted a single tierod to get rid of the slop and flimsiness of the 3 piece unit. Once I saw these it was love at first sight. I got 2 full tierods to test out. The first is a length designed for the Vanquish Knuckles and the other is shorter and designed to work with stock or the HR knuckles. I chose the longer link since I just love my Vanquish Knuckles. Instantly I knew this thing was going to hold up to anything. It will be made from solid stainless rod drilled and tapped for 4mm hardware and then included strong 4mm revo rod ends. Quickly I realized I would need to remove the factory steering slide area. I took a razor blade and then a file and removed the upper area all without even taking the axle apart or even removing it from the rig The tierod bolted up easily and fit great. With the tierod running straight it would be hard to clock the axles too far forward without it needing to be bent slightly. Since I prefer my knuckles clocked all the way back so keeping it straight worked out great. The clearance from below is still great. The tierod sits up close to the motor and is up and out of the way of most all rocks. This tierod seems to give a pretty straight alignment. In the past I have run and/or tested with the idea of toe out. With this tierod I could easily trim a rod end 1-2mm and gain that toe out (for future testing) The steering was still extremely well. With this set up I have my EPA's set at a full 150 both directions. It comes close to hitting on the servo horn but still clears. Last edited by nonstopboost; 11-11-2010 at 12:40 AM. |
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11-11-2010, 12:05 AM | #2 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Sumter
Posts: 6,141
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what size rod is it?
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11-11-2010, 12:10 AM | #3 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Rocklin
Posts: 374
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Looks like 1/4" rod. Looks clean! Can we get a pic looking at if from the front to see if it hangs below the axle housing!
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11-11-2010, 12:18 AM | #4 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2007 Location: home
Posts: 369
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I started taking pictures of the front to see the rod. But it just looked like a picture of the front end. I had to get pretty low in this picture to show the tierod. The picture is basically from the table looking up! | |
11-11-2010, 12:27 AM | #5 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: dallas
Posts: 866
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The tie rod looks like its made from aluminum K&S 1/4 x .049 tube #3061
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11-11-2010, 12:32 AM | #6 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: 801
Posts: 2,941
| The ones in the pictures are prototypes and are in fact aluminum. We wanted to test fit the length before we went ahead and cut the Stainless Tierods. But rest assured once they release all steering tierods will be stainless
Last edited by Chaotic Crawlers; 11-11-2010 at 12:42 AM. |
11-11-2010, 05:23 AM | #7 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: .
Posts: 7,967
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When will these be available and whats the price? I want one now! |
11-11-2010, 06:46 AM | #8 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: GrandRapids, MILITIAGAN
Posts: 3,197
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Will you be making a bent version? If not its cool I'll probably make my own out of Ti.
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11-11-2010, 07:18 AM | #9 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Chico
Posts: 281
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How is the clearance to the motor can when the wheels are straight? My 3/16" tierod will barely fit a "5 hour" motor skid (thinnest one I could find), there is no way I could get a 1/4" rod and a skid to fit. But I also run 13t pinions, so maybe people running a 14t pinion have a hair more room to work with. Just something to be aware of. |
11-11-2010, 08:16 AM | #10 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 596
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since its a solid rod you could always take the ol dremel to it for a tiny bit more clearance if needed. | |
11-11-2010, 08:18 AM | #11 |
RCC Addict Join Date: May 2006 Location: enid
Posts: 1,250
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I vote it has a bout a 10 degree bend on each end for motor clearance issues. I'm running a straight one but it could use a bend on each end so i dont have to clock my c's fully one way as i have to now |
11-11-2010, 09:04 AM | #12 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: 6512 Elevation
Posts: 884
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11-11-2010, 09:52 AM | #13 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: 801
Posts: 2,941
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We are making more prototypes tonight. Ultimately I Want the rod to be straight, but if in the end they need to be bent we will do it. I prefer my knuckles in the center position, so that's what we are aiming for. The new prototype will be more like a Lunsford link. We will keep you posted on progress. Once we have one that fits the way we like, they should only be a week out at the most. |
11-11-2010, 09:58 AM | #14 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: GrandRapids, MILITIAGAN
Posts: 3,197
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How much are they going to be shipped?
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11-11-2010, 10:03 AM | #15 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: 801
Posts: 2,941
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We won't know until we get the link how we need it to be. |
11-11-2010, 10:04 AM | #16 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Scumrise, Flooriduh
Posts: 5,181
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11-11-2010, 10:19 AM | #17 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: GrandRapids, MILITIAGAN
Posts: 3,197
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11-11-2010, 01:25 PM | #18 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Etowah
Posts: 668
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Just wondering why stainless? 316L is nearly as soft as alum and guals real easy, why not drill rod that could be tempered and slide over obsticles easier? |
11-11-2010, 01:31 PM | #19 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: 801
Posts: 2,941
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I've never had any of my stainless links gawl. We used stainless for strength. Titanium is way too expensive for such a small vendor like us. We talked about delrin, but it's always a gamble with delrin when it comes to strength. |
11-11-2010, 01:41 PM | #20 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: 801
Posts: 2,941
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