stubs secret agent

[stubs179]

I have been running a bully for a while and i feel the performance was just lacking. So i switched to an XR-10 last week. I wasn't going to do a build thread but at the Nv shootout for a spot at nationals quite a few people seamed interested in it. So i figure why not? It worked great as i pulled off a 1st!

I just put it together last week and only had two chances to test it. It worked F-ing amazing I am at 4lb 14oz. I keep thinking it is to light but it just keeps amazing me with what it does. I have seen no negative affects of being this light so i dont think i will be adding weight. Plus with the rep of these axles i think the lighter the better?


Specs...........

-XR axles fronts in both ends
-RC4WD case's and motor plates
-HR gears
-VP knuckles
-Droid chassis
-scx10 shocks w/ MRC springs
-TH-7950
-cc bec
-2 fxr's
-ckrc twister motors
-16 ga. wire
-VP slw v2 wheels
-f400 foam w/ rovers

Because i am running a front axle in the rear i am running the 1st version of the droid chassis. It is much shorter than the production version. It works great because the shocks have to mount much higher. I am just running the shock towers off the stock kit flipped upside down.


I hate the steering link! Figuring something else out is one of my top priorities.

[TSK]

I must be sleeping, cause I viewed my first droid buildtoday in the berg section, and now i see this. So you are running no wheel weight at all?

[shelby]

I hated the straight link too.

You could put longer ends on the stock steering link to fit the VP knuckles.

Or, you could contact fairchild and ask him if you could buy one his beefed up SS links that fit VP knuckles. (like stock just beefier)

[HARDKNOCKZ]

I axed the stock steering link 1st thing. There's a few guys here that make bitchin titanium & ss links that eliminate the thru axle setup but I just sleeved a piece of 4mm allthread with some aluminum tubing & contoured it to the axle. The sleeve is like the ol BIC pen trick on the AX10 & LCC links. Kinda rolls with the rock should a little lip get ahold of it.

[stubs179]

Originally Posted by TheSCorpionKing

I must be sleeping, cause I viewed my first droid buildtoday in the berg section, and now i see this. So you are running no wheel weight at all?

I am running 4oz in each wheel. With the 850mAh batt on the axles it seems to be enough.

[stubs179]

Originally Posted by shelby

I hated the straight link too.

You could put longer ends on the stock steering link to fit the VP knuckles.

Or, you could contact fairchild and ask him if you could buy one his beefed up SS links that fit VP knuckles. (like stock just beefier)

Originally Posted by HARDKNOCKZ

I axed the stock steering link 1st thing. There's a few guys here that make bitchin titanium & ss links that eliminate the thru axle setup but I just sleeved a piece of 4mm allthread with some aluminum tubing & contoured it to the axle. The sleeve is like the ol BIC pen trick on the AX10 & LCC links. Kinda rolls with the rock should a little lip get ahold of it.

I don't like the steering situation all together. I am thinking on a way to get a link to snake up over the motor between the links and shocks?

[TANK]

what a pile...

[stubs179]

Originally Posted by TANK

what a pile...

Aww, come on? It not the trucks fault, its my piss poor driving that made it look like a pile

And thanks again for the lock-outs!

[shelby]

Hey Stubs, I was looking through the picture archive and saw a guy who re did his steering like this:

It's not the best pic, but it gives an idea. Since you wanted to re do your steering.

[/QUOTE]

[stubs179]

I went to my brothers shop last night and we cut some new chassis plates on the water jet. They are out of .063 Aluminum. I just copied the droid that a have been running but now it is one piece. The pair of chassis plates weight .66 oz and the ones i took off weighted 1.56 oz.

The bottom plate is a V3 Droid plate. The top two are my new plates.

[slowride1]

looks great man

[TSK]

What's your belly clearance?

[stubs179]

Thanks!

The bellys at 3 3/8" fully extended.

[slowride1]

i understand what u have done here an in all the holes u need to run your setup u was runnin but i was really diggin the adjustabilty in the shocks setup on the old chasis but the build dose lookgood an im sure it works

[stubs179]

The way the shock holes were there we not much room for adjustment and it was just a bunch of extra weight. I will be driving it tomorrow so we will see if an extra once out of the chassis helps.

[oneeye]

That looks really nice keep us posted on how it works for ya

[stubs179]

I took it to the river today, i am not exaggerating but i could not get it to tip over on a side-hill. It would slide off the rock before it would flip. I don't see how 1 oz out of the chassis can make that much difference so i will not know for sure how good it side-hills until i can get out to the moonrock for some serious traction.


Has anyone running a super thin chassis noticed that if you twist it up really good the plates will flex to a point where they will stay a little off until it is flexed the opposite direction? It might have done it before with the chassis plates i was running but i never ran it without the body to see.

[slowngreen]

Looks great dude, I LOVE seeing something different.

[stubs179]

I have been very fortunate in being able to test some amazing new wheels from D_Lux. He basically reinvented the wheel! They are super light and now I have to add weight back to the wheels. I have the 1" version. I had to go to 725 hubs in the front and 850's in the back. It is narrower than my SLW's with 425's in the front and 600's in the back.

[DRCrawlGood]

Hmm didn't Sven make wheels like that awhile back?