Dr.Frank's XR take II CK Fly V1

[Cirederf]

Really great job Dr ! I can't believe how light is he .wow

[Robbob]

WOW!

Nice job Frank!

Its amazing with the rigs being so light if that bias point changes even .125 farther back you can really feel it.

Now we need video

[Dr.Frank]

Originally Posted by TURBOFEST

That is really awesome Frank! Considering where your balance point is now, I can't see you adding more than 2 oz. per side to it. Thats an ultra lightweight XR for sure!!! Nice job!!

Originally Posted by EverettY

Wow now that is the lightest XR I've seen and the coolest to Awesome job!

Originally Posted by Hittman

Nice work on the overall weight. She is a light one for sure

Originally Posted by TheSCorpionKing

SHOWOFF

Damn that is light Great work as always.

I better put my Berg on another diet once the holidayss are done. ONLY half a pound to lose

Originally Posted by Cirederf

Really great job Dr ! I can't believe how light is he .wow

Originally Posted by Robbob

WOW!

Nice job Frank!

Its amazing with the rigs being so light if that bias point changes even .125 farther back you can really feel it.

Now we need video

Thanks guys, video will follow soon

I run a few packs through to see how the fly behaves...

...one thing is for sure, you need a very sensitive trigger finger

I'm running Team Brood 16T CVR amatures in lathed GM EVO4 cans, what should i say, i love this combo a lot

BTW, here's a short MT-4 lever mod instruction:

Step 1:

Drill three 2mm holes inside the right grip and use a sharp carpet knife to cut a small slot.


Step 2:

Remove the green marked screws and open to open the TX.



Step 3:

Use a small screw driver to loose the display cover carefully please!



Step 4:

Remove the trigger and the antenna plug to seperate the to housings.



Step 5:

Remove the trigger unit.



Step 6:

Widen the small slot with a key file to aprox. 2.5x10mm.



Step 7:

Cut of some plastic as shown in the picture.



Step 8:

Put the 3D Joystick potentiometer in the grip and solder the three pins to the three lever potentiometer pins (1 to 1). After soldering you can cut out the lever and remove it (or unsolder before).



Step 9:

Put the two housings together, rescrew them and cut a bit of the rubber grip before you put it back on.



Step 10:

Practice

Greetiings Frank

[EGRESSor]

part number of that joystick thing please

[Dr.Frank]

Originally Posted by EGRESSor

part number of that joystick thing please

Here it is Sir:

3D-Joystick

Greetings Frank

[Dr.Frank]

Ready to rumble:





Max GC:



Ride height:



Min GC:



Still the same weight, so now it's time for serious testing



Greetings Frank

[TURBOFEST]

I'm really diggin your rig Frank!! It looks great with all of your custom touches! I really like your Spring preload adjusters...very tricky

[Dr.Frank]

Originally Posted by TURBOFEST

I'm really diggin your rig Frank!! It looks great with all of your custom touches! I really like your Spring preload adjusters...very tricky

Thanks Jimmy, me like it too

Spring preload adjusters are simple, just beheaded SCX10 shock caps

Greetings Frank

[EverettY]

Originally Posted by Dr.Frank

Spring preload adjusters are simple, just beheaded SCX10 shock caps

Greetings Frank

Cha-Chang.. Genius ... Looks amazing! Your build has been my favorite so far this season. Can't wait to see how it performs

[Dr.Frank]

I redo the knuckle weight holder a bit. Now there is space for 6 weights and i put 57g in each holder (a holder weights 6.5g). I placed the Tungsten weights as followed:



As you can see most of the extra weight is below the axle centerline and into the front.

The weights also moved to the outside:





Enough space between KW and wheel:



The extra weight in the front brings it to 1683g in total:



...that's 3.71 lbs.:



Balance point is there where i want it to be:



Greetings Frank

[GEARSCIENCE]

simply amazing are your lower links 50/50 front to back? hope to see some footage of this truck in action soon

[EverettY]

Originally Posted by GEARSCIENCE

simply amazing are your lower links 50/50 front to back? hope to see some footage of this truck in action soon

His links are 55/45ish setup..

Looks awesome Frank. BTW can you just send a quick response to the last PM I sent ya... I accidentally deleted the one from you and I kinda wanted to have it Thanks!

[Dr.Frank]

Originally Posted by GEARSCIENCE

simply amazing are your lower links 50/50 front to back? hope to see some footage of this truck in action soon

Thanks, front lowers are 132mm and rear lowers are 145mm, so it's 45/55 like Everett said.

Originally Posted by EverettY

His links are 55/45ish setup..

Looks awesome Frank. BTW can you just send a quick response to the last PM I sent ya... I accidentally deleted the one from you and I kinda wanted to have it Thanks!

Thanks, PM's out.

Greeting Frank

[EverettY]

Originally Posted by Dr.Frank

Thanks, front lowers are 132mm and rear lowers are 145mm, so it's 45/55 like Everett said.



Thanks, PM's out.

Greeting Frank

Got it THanks!

[TSK]

If I had 4 hands, i'd give this build 4 thumbs up

[EverettY]

Originally Posted by TheSCorpionKing

If I had 4 hands, i'd give this build 4 thumbs up

HAHA looks like you not only got 4 hands you got 4 heads

[TSK]

Originally Posted by EverettY

HAHA looks like you not only got 4 hands you got 4 heads

2 at the very least

[Hunter15]

What body is that ton the first page? Interested in one.

[Hittman]

Awsome man. I really like the body panels. Looks awsome rtr! With those narrowed pins and solid wheels it looks mean!

[ittybitty]

Originally Posted by Hunter15

What body is that ton the first page? Interested in one.

That'd be a Parma Xciter body...