Clocked C-hubs and tie rod

[LooseMoose1978]

Ok, I've searched about 457,000 different things and can't find the info I'm looking for. I recently upgraded my chubs and knuckles to the axial stage 1 kit. I want to be able to get some more steering out of it too. What is the advantage to clocking the chubs? And is the only option to clock them in the full reverse setting? See pic below. I am planning on going to a tie-rod set up instead of the stock steering and don't want to purchase the wrong tie-rod. And is the high leverage steering arm compatible with the stock xr wheels?



Flame away if need be but I will appreciate any help given.

[jeepster73]

Copied this from Perkolator
i'm fairly certain that pic is without c-hubs being clocked since the mounting is centered with everything else on the axle - so the caster would be 0* inclination/vertical.

since the 8* steering setup includes king pin inclination, the wheel's camber changes as the wheels turn, thus changing the tire scrub while steering. this has nothing to do with the pinion angle of the axle. IIRC, 8* setup will not clear stock wheels w/stock wheel hex - you'll need either aftermarket wheels with different offset or wider wheel hexes.

if you increase your pinion angle by clocking your axle forward, you've now changed the c-hubs into negative caster angle = wheels steering more into the ground no matter what steering knuckle setup you have. the only way to correct this is to clock the c-hubs in the opposite direction you've just clocked your axle - so the caster is set closer to vertical, like it was originally.

a *similar* setup to the 8* knuckles, would be to have a regular steering setup with the c-hubs clocked back into a positive caster angle - which will also result in camber angle changing as your wheels turn. easiest achieved with either clockable c-hubs or with beef tubes inside axle.

some benefits to having your camber change as your wheels turn: steering tends to want to go back to straight after a turn, less tire scrub, wheels don't fight one another as much, added camber helps steer tire into the object you're trying to climb over = better traction, camber at full steering can help clearance tires from hitting shocks.

this is the best explanation i can personally give since it's a difficult thing to explain without seeing a video or comparison pics of the different setups.

[Wicked Monkey]

That pic is fully clocked back. The benefit is increased steering. At that position, you want the straight tie rod.

Sent from my SPH-D710BST using Tapatalk 2

[LooseMoose1978]

jeepster, thanks for the physics lesson! Do you know if there any diagrams to go along with that?

Wicked Monkey, thanks for the reply. That is what I thought and am going to go with. I wanted to verify before I went ahead and bought the wrong tie-rod.

[jeepster73]

Originally Posted by LooseMoose1978

jeepster, thanks for the physics lesson! Do you know if there any diagrams to go along with that?

Wicked Monkey, thanks for the reply. That is what I thought and am going to go with. I wanted to verify before I went ahead and bought the wrong tie-rod.

This might help you out...

http://www.truckaddons.com/Catalog/s...nformation.htm

[LooseMoose1978]

Thanks jeepster, that was helpful to be able to see some of the concepts I see people on here talking about.

[KBrog]

I elongated the screw slots in the C's to clock the C's back more than stock so I could run longer upper links to clock the motor up for more clearance.

And no, the VP knuckles willnot work with stock wheels unless you narrow them.

[Colgout]

I filed the chub to allow me to clock one more slot, and I use Chaotic bent tie rod. Look at their website, and PM him, he will get what you need.

You can also grind down the area at the double shear arm to allow you a bit more steering. With that you will also need to grind down the unit joint to allow smooth operation and move the servo more central so the tire scrub less when you have full left turn.

[Calderwood]

Open up the slots so you can run one extra click of caster. Then cut off your lower double shear arm and run the rod ends on top of the upper arm.

[LooseMoose1978]

Thanks for all of the replies, good advice coming in!

Kbrog, I don't have VP knuckles, I got the Axial Stage 1 aluminum kit (chubs, knuckles, lockouts). I installed them last night and they seem to fit with the stock wheels. I haven't had a chance to run it yet but they don't seem to be in the way of anything. But I did try the high leverage steering arm and it seemed to not clear the back edge of the wheel. Do I need to run a narrower wheel with the high leverage arm?

[Calderwood]

Originally Posted by LooseMoose1978

Do I need to run a narrower wheel with the high leverage arm?

Yes, or one with more offset, wider hub, etc.

[LooseMoose1978]

Originally Posted by nigels_world

Yes, or one with more offset, wider hub, etc.

Thanks nigel!

[sethstiles]

I'm looking to improve the steering on my Losi mini crawler rtr version. I have been advised to clock some aluminum c-hubs. What does that mean and how do I do it? Thanks.

[snapon boy]

Losi sells 30 degree knuckles

149 r/c worx/scalerfab/team brood.