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Old 02-07-2014, 01:01 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowride1 View Post
in the last pic u havere it isn't bad lol
if them are cc links than yes there is a extra bend in them rite at the skid

if u think the skid is going to hang up the heat it alittle an bend it up some . I can say I never got hung on that part of the skid

an for the love of god turn that cab around so it looks like a hot rod an not a pope mobile
Pope Mobile. That's funny cause I'm Baptist. I would have made a heck of a Catholic though. I liked to drink, cuss, and smoke. I quit drinking and I use the money I spent on rc now. I'm working on quitting smoking, so I figure they'll let me back in now. Haha. (I'm still gonna f@*#ing gonna cuss though).

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Old 02-07-2014, 01:05 PM   #42
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Default Re: 10 year Tribute Build

here you can see my setup that I ran at natts
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Old 02-11-2014, 05:53 PM   #43
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Got my steering link worked out. Didn't have any revo rod ends, but did some digging in my Tmaxx stash and found some that work. Gotta put some washers on my servo screws. Once again, don't laugh at my servo. It's actually held up in my old rig. It's a high voltage and I have my bec set @ 6.4v. There is NO comparison between this rig and my old Ax. I've got tons more steering now. Nice.

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Old 02-11-2014, 06:37 PM   #44
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Found some washers. No more worries about servo ears.

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Old 02-12-2014, 10:30 PM   #45
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Well, here's another exciting episode. Was double checking my mesh and the sight glass broke. Was very brittle. Glad it did it on the bench instead of on the rocks. It would have been a Bummer to have to dis-assemble the trans to make sure nothing got inside. I've got some 1mil lexan sheets. Gonna make a template and try that as a replacement . Hoping it's stiff enough.I know I'm not using the same plastic as the originals. It broke shockingly easy.
on a rocky note, we have a brief warming trend on the way. I spread a 50lb bag of salt on my practice course here on the farm today. I've got a foot of snow on it, but I have plenty more salt. I just need a little shakedown run. Any time is gonna be a good learning experience.
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Old 02-14-2014, 08:06 PM   #46
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So much for the snow melting. Got 3 more inches last night. Warming trend forecasted.
On to what I'm working on. (as if anybody cares. Hello?? Is this thing on? Hello, hello. Lol). Made one replacement sight glass. Not real happy with my cutting skills. I have a nice pair of curved lexan scissors, but I'm evidently not certified to use them. I've got a plan on how to make an exact duplicate.
Here's my first attempt. Studying up on two screw mod for rear axle next. Not sure if I'm doing that or going with a front axle in back. Since its just me, I may do front axle in rear for rear steer in the future. I've had it before on my AX for fun. Really does open you up for different lines.

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Old 02-19-2014, 10:07 PM   #47
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1st time on the rocks today. It was AWESOME! My AX10 was built up and performed excellent, but this thing is a whole other level. MOA and dual esc is simply amazing. It performed as good as I'd dreamed it would.
I've got some tuning to do on the esc's. It has waayy too much punch in reverse. I've fiddled with Rx, but think I need to do some tweaking with Castle Link. Other thing is, when I'm in reverse the rear spins way faster than the front. I have my #4 switch for rear wheel speed. It's set for 10% increments. In forward, the rear spins where it's set. When I go into reverse, the rear still spins fast. If I turn down rear speed in reverse then go forward, the wheel speed is slow from reverse setting. Make any sense? I know this is just a simple problem for you experienced guys, but it has me spun.
The only other thing I was uncomfortable with is the suspension. Seems to be "hoppy" from rock to rock. I'm used to my slow, heavy Ax, this is going to require me to adjust my driving style. I'm considering going thinner on oil to make it more fluid. It still is cold here, so I may wait for warmer weather and see if it's a temp thing. Whenever I tear into shocks, I'm gonna go with the 3 o-rings and slime as mentioned from Winnerone23 in another thread.
On my practice pile here at the house. Wasn't anything it couldn't do. Got through stuff my Ax would never do. STOKED!!

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Old 02-20-2014, 12:13 AM   #48
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Default Re: 10 year Tribute Build

Try setting to zero and re calibrating. Do your motors have an advanced timing? If yes they could be swapped so the forward direction is faster. If not switch the wires soldered on motor.
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Old 02-20-2014, 07:41 AM   #49
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Damn Jeeper, good work man. I couldn't be happier for you. I've been following this since day one, and the fact that it's a tribute build is even cooler. I have just a few more things to gather up and I'll be doing my new build. That way folks can point fingers at me and giggle for awhile.

Good work sir!!
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Old 02-20-2014, 09:53 AM   #50
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Very nice Glen!

As I was reading ur post, I thought maybe you put the motors on backwards, front on back, back on front.. but are they a matched set of motors or just 2 motors you got? As stated above, if they are just 2 motors you got, the timing on ur motor could be set wrong. 6° forward but its reverse so its slow in forward and faster in reverse.. Time for a matched set of motors! ;) get the full experience... lol..

As for ur "hop" what weight oil are you running? How much do you have ur shock collars turned down on the springs? Loosen them up some so there is no tension on them and see if that helps, maybe back em off a touch so the spring is loose/free to move on the shock.
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Old 02-20-2014, 11:02 AM   #51
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Thanks for the input guys. I wouldn't consider my motors as matched. They are simply cheap Integy 45 turn. They may be soldered backwards because I had to set Rx to reverse to go forward. I'm electrical dyslexic. I'm guessing if I have one with the timing advanced, I should put it on front? Do I want one with more advance? I'm not sure how to reset my 4pl to zero. My bars show different rates as I pull trigger. Shows a little bit even when off throttle. I've went into the throttle profile and see different settings, but not sure which one I want.
As far as the suspension goes, I'm running the oil that was in the shocks when I got them off here. I may go through them and put fresh 50wt as a baseline and work from there. I have the silver MRC springs right now. Who knows, it may be perfect right now. I'm 2lbs lighter than my old rig and I'm used to dragging all the extra weight around. I'm used to slowly crawling, maybe this is more of a rock hopper. I do want to back a little punch out. It's just too responsive for what I'm used to.

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Old 02-20-2014, 07:36 PM   #52
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Are both esc's set to reverse in ur tx or just the rear motor?
The timing is in the motor and can be switched easily without pulling the motor.
If its only ur rear motor channel set to reverse, you can loosen the 2 endbell screws and rotate the end bell 180° then set ur timing and tighten it back down.
Might want to go a little lighter oil while its cold out. Maybe 30wt front, 35-40wt rear..
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Old 02-23-2014, 11:56 PM   #53
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Well,, here's an update. I've found dark places within the 4pl. I bought another new slash the other day. Decided to put my extra Futaba rx in the slash.
It all started when I tried to add a new model to the radio. I "thought" I was on a different model number. I never did get the slash binded, so I gave up for the night. Yesterday, a buddy brought his Losi crawlers to play on my practice pile. I fired mine up and had nuthin. It's taken me until today to get back somewhat of the settings I had. I'm new to Castle Link and the 4pl. It's like they working against each other. I'm getting the Castle Link figured out, but the 4pl is kicking my butt. The manual is difficult if you don't know what half of the functions do. Way too complicated for me. I wanted a Airtronics mt4, but couldn't find one. I'm gonna spend some time working off the settings I've came up with. May swap my motors front/back. Think my back one has the timing advanced a bit, so I'll put it on front. Guess I should swap motors first, then fine tune settings.
I was FINALLY able to run a pack today. Totally impressed with the work it does. Can't wait to get comfortable with it and learn what it's really capable of doing.

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Old 02-24-2014, 10:59 AM   #54
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Sell that 4pl and grab urself a mt-4 already! ;)
Also, no need to pull ur motors, the front one is prolly set with the same timing.. just loosen the 2 endbell screws and turn the end bell.. tighten back down..
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Old 02-24-2014, 09:41 PM   #55
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I wanted a mt-4, but couldn't find a used one. (anybody that has a mt-4 and yearns for the complexity of the 4pl, hit me up. Lol). I'll definitely change timing with motors on. I struggled with mesh anyways. Thanks nanez, I'm really excited about this thing.

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Old 03-02-2014, 12:11 AM   #56
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Have some exciting news. Calderwood has his CF adjustable upper link mount available for the Hot Racing mount. It's a sweet looking piece and I like the ability to adjust as I learn. I'm buying one at a time, so should I install the front or rear first? I mostly have rubble/boulders in my area. Not so much layered Rock with ledges. (If that matters).

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Old 03-02-2014, 12:44 AM   #57
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Default Re: 10 year Tribute Build

A titanium steering link would look good on there.

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Old 03-02-2014, 01:20 AM   #58
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Quote:
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A titanium steering link would look good on there.

I like that. Nice, clean, and not bulky. I may go with one after I invest in a good servo. I'm waiting until mine quits, then I'm going to something expensive and strong.

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Old 03-03-2014, 03:28 PM   #59
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I'm wanting some Calderwood upper link mounts. I'd really like some input on which end to buy 1st. Front or rear? My wife's budget will only allow for one at a time. Lol. Where will I get the most benefit at the start?
Here's a shot of my current setup.

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Old 03-04-2014, 01:52 PM   #60
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I would start to put the 'rear upper link, so link away from the engine and you can rotate the bridge as you want ...
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