10 year Tribute Build

[winnerone23]

Get them shocks in the top row of holes! ;)

[jollyjeeper]

Originally Posted by winnerone23

Get them shocks in the top row of holes! ;)

Ok. Do I move them in upper holes towards the center of chassis, or stand them up more in the outer? I'm thinking stood up for more down-pressure and adjust some ride height out. Am I on the right thought process? I'd like more input on which upper link mount to go with first also. Front or rear? (I'm getting both, just gotta go one at a time.)

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[winnerone23]

Up and to the nose with the front shocks and either way with the rears..

Not sure you have to go higher with ur links at the axles.. I have VP and I'm in the middle holes in front and rear. Not sure how that measures out on a stock mount but I think it's pretty close..
I tried higher and a spacer under the link mount. Some chassis work better that way. I didn't find that the Switch did. Might just be my drive style...

It's a great product and options for ur links are always nice to have.

[jollyjeeper]

Either way with the rear shocks? Are there situations that one way works better? I'm on some loose shelf limestone, but mostly small boulder and rubble in my area.
I'm kind of with you about my links. From what I've studied, they seem about right. I'm still gonna buy the Calderwood mounts. If for any reason, there are very few new parts being made for XR. I'm committed to XR, so I may need them down the road.

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[Conflict]

It was my personal thought to attack the front mount first. I know that I am probably going to get a bunch of flak for my next statement but: When I was Pro Rock Crawling 1.1 myself and the other drivers around me would focus all of our attention to the front of our crawlers, mainly due to the fact that its pretty much the most important half of the rig. Once you get your front suspension, steering, & geometry setup, everything else will fall into place. I always put most of my effort on the front first, then just drag the rear through the gates.

Just my couple pennies. Looking good Glen

[slowride1]

move the shocks up to the top row of hols in the chasis

move the rear upper links up one hole on the chasis as well.

by going these to things it will help it form coming over backwards an moving the shocks up in the top holes will lower the cgs

[jollyjeeper]

Originally Posted by Conflict

It was my personal thought to attack the front mount first. I know that I am probably going to get a bunch of flak for my next statement but: When I was Pro Rock Crawling 1.1 myself and the other drivers around me would focus all of our attention to the front of our crawlers, mainly due to the fact that its pretty much the most important half of the rig. Once you get your front suspension, steering, & geometry setup, everything else will fall into place. I always put most of my effort on the front first, then just drag the rear through the gates.

Just my couple pennies. Looking good Glen

Well, that's kinda what my thinking was. Is there a good rule of thumb for a baseline on upper link angle/direction? Level like it is? Front a little higher than at chassis, etc? Go with the adjustable mount and raise for more separation between uppers and lowers?

Originally Posted by slowride1

move the shocks up to the top row of hols in the chasis

move the rear upper links up one hole on the chasis as well.

by going these to things it will help it form coming over backwards an moving the shocks up in the top holes will lower the cgs

Thanks Randy. Moving shocks today. Gonna stand front ones up more by going up and forward a hole. What's your thought on rear shocks? Lay back a hole or stand up on top row? After the shock move, where should I be at GC? I'm at 3-1/8' at front skid bolt as it is now.

Not sure if any of this is even gonna matter. I'm having so much trouble programing my 4pl and my esc's. I've got my dig switch where I want it and have my rear wheel-speed switch set to 10% increments, but when I reverse, the rear does not correspond to setting in forward. I'm lost. Makes driving difficult. There's so much confusion for me on this radio. Once again, it doesn't help that I've never even seen another crawler in person. I just bought another Slash without an tx/rx and was going to use this radio since I'll never drive both at once. I couldn't even figure out how to add another car without wiping out all of the settings on my crawler. I've watched a few videos, but most are for the 4pk. Wish I had a nice simple looking Airtronics MT -4.


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[slowride1]

herley dose a fine job of telling you what to do in the setups . I ran mine just like he said to an never had any probs at all. I like the 4pl better than the 4pk myself .
let the rear shocks lay in more than the fronts . this will make the rear softer an it will suck down more on a dig. if you go back an put the setup I was running at natts on there that is the best that chasis ever worked for me

ill try an help you anway I can man it just hard on here an over the phone is all. ill try an point you to everone an every teead I used as well.
I have steped out of the comp thing for a while an all I have is a sporty for now but I will help where I can. I haven't touched my stuff in like 4 mounths now . been thinking of getting out of it all for a min. I just don't have the drive for it now an im not going to just go threw the motions an ack like its fun for me when my hart just ant in it rite now

[jollyjeeper]

Originally Posted by slowride1

herley dose a fine job of telling you what to do in the setups . I ran mine just like he said to an never had any probs at all. I like the 4pl better than the 4pk myself .
let the rear shocks lay in more than the fronts . this will make the rear softer an it will suck down more on a dig. if you go back an put the setup I was running at natts on there that is the best that chasis ever worked for me

ill try an help you anway I can man it just hard on here an over the phone is all. ill try an point you to everone an every teead I used as well.
I have steped out of the comp thing for a while an all I have is a sporty for now but I will help where I can. I haven't touched my stuff in like 4 mounths now . been thinking of getting out of it all for a min. I just don't have the drive for it now an im not going to just go threw the motions an ack like its fun for me when my hart just ant in it rite now

Thanks Man. I've watched Harley's vid's. It's the fine tuning I'm struggling with. I'm still not sure if I have the esc's just right, a timing issue, or rx settings. This is a new world to me and I'm so close. Grrr.
I've been in and out of RC my whole life. When I'm in, I'm all in.
Thanks for the offer for help, you'll hear from me. You've helped me many times and I appreciate it.
I've ran a couple packs in the last few days. I left the setup alone to get a feel for it when it's off. That way I can hopefully feel an improvement as I make changes. I'm gonna do shocks first and get some time with it before I do any link changes. Exciting link news, I got a Calderwood adjustable front link mount on order. Fits my HR mount. Pics look sweet! Excited, may add some performance as I learn.

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[jollyjeeper]

Ok guys, I moved my shocks to top holes. Stood the front up by moving one hole forward. Having an issue with rear. I layed shocks down by going towards the front. Under compression, the rear chassis horns go under the links and stick. On the bench I didn't figure it would be an issue because most times it's either one side or the other that the links rise. On the rocks it compresses when I dig and hangs chassis to links.
Down the road this won't be an issue because I'm going to get the rear Calderwood link mount and can space out links a mm or so. Guess in the meantime, I'll stand rear shocks up on top row. I understand the benefit of laying rear down and will just have to wait until I get my Calderwood's.

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[winnerone23]

Turn ur links into each other. The button bend that ur chassis is getting stuck between. Turn them in so the rear chassis brace lands On them when you dig.. it's perfect.

[jollyjeeper]

Gotcha. I still have shock travel left, but don't need any more up travel. My shocks are limited, but that's more on the flex side of things. Kool.
The weather is starting to break. Finally gonna be able to spend some time on the rocks. I'm excited knowing I'm going to be starting with a good setup. I'm getting a feel for its balance and weight on my practice pile. It's 2lbs lighter than my AX10. Quite noticeable. Lol.
My main concern now is getting some quirks programed out of my radio and esc's. If I can't control it exactly as I want, setup of the chassis won't matter. Ugh.

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[Trubble]

Originally Posted by jollyjeeper

My main concern now is getting some quirks programed out of my radio and esc's. If I can't control it exactly as I want, setup of the chassis won't matter.

When you look at your radio, and you pull the trigger, do both your throttle lines stop at the 100% mark?
And then when you push the trigger away, does channel two throttle stop at 100%, and channel four throttle sails clean out to almost the end? (120%?)

'Cause that's what my radio's doing and I have yet to find out how to stop it. Just wondered if that was the reason for the touchy reverse issue you seemed to be having.

I found if I pull back on DT4 (turning down ETA), I can get them to both stop at 100% in reverse, but then going forward channel four throttle stops way short of 100%.

[jollyjeeper]

Originally Posted by Trubble

When you look at your radio, and you pull the trigger, do both your throttle lines stop at the 100% mark?
And then when you push the trigger away, does channel two throttle stop at 100%, and channel four throttle sails clean out to almost the end? (120%?)

'Cause that's what my radio's doing and I have yet to find out how to stop it. Just wondered if that was the reason for the touchy reverse issue you seemed to be having.

I found if I pull back on DT4 (turning down ETA), I can get them to both stop at 100% in reverse, but then going forward channel four throttle stops way short of 100%.

Yes! That's one of my main issues.

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[GRIMGREG]

Have you messed with the exponential settings on the radio? That could be your touchy throttle issue.

[jollyjeeper]

Originally Posted by GRIMGREG

Have you messed with the exponential settings on the radio? That could be your touchy throttle issue.

Yeah, I actually have them at 120% I'm thinking it may be an esc programing thing. I've got instant and crazy wheelspeed in reverse on the front motor. I'd like to have that punch and wheelspeed in forward on both motors. The other thing is, I have my rear wheelspeed trim on the DT4 switch. I wish the rear would stay in the wheelspeed it was left in by trim in forward vs reverse. For example: I want the rear to spin faster in reverse and the rear to spin at the speed it was set to from last time going forward. That's the best explanation I can think of.

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[GRIMGREG]

OK, did you reset the throttle curve in the speed control when you programed it? The preset for it shouldn't deliver a punch, I know you talked about a firmware switch, which usually sets everything to default, but if they were used ESCs and someone had a steep throttle curve programed on it, then you reversed direction on the transmitter (rather than swapping polarity with the motor wires) that might be the cause. ?

[jollyjeeper]

Originally Posted by GRIMGREG

OK, did you reset the throttle curve in the speed control when you programed it? The preset for it shouldn't deliver a punch, I know you talked about a firmware switch, which usually sets everything to default, but if they were used ESCs and someone had a steep throttle curve programed on it, then you reversed direction on the transmitter (rather than swapping polarity with the motor wires) that might be the cause. ?

I've looked at my curve. They are steady with no curve. The motor polarity is a good question. Here's a pic of my radio when I pull trigger for forward. Here's reverse.

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[jollyjeeper]

Originally Posted by Trubble

When you look at your radio, and you pull the trigger, do both your throttle lines stop at the 100% mark?
And then when you push the trigger away, does channel two throttle stop at 100%, and channel four throttle sails clean out to almost the end? (120%?)

'Cause that's what my radio's doing and I have yet to find out how to stop it. Just wondered if that was the reason for the touchy reverse issue you seemed to be having.

I found if I pull back on DT4 (turning down ETA), I can get them to both stop at 100% in reverse, but then going forward channel four throttle stops way short of 100%.

I figured out my problem. I swapped the front motor wires and set my channel 2 to fwd. Yay, I'm fixed! Works perfect now. I've been working on my practice spots and it's working great.
Thanks to Conflict, I have a 35mm screw for the Two Screw mod. I'm ordering the Calderwood front link mount and he's working on another little goodie for me. Our weather is FINALLY getting ready to break, so I'm real close to being a local contender with the guys with Midwest RCC in St Louis. I've met up with a couple great guys here close to the farm and we've been Slashing on my track and crawling on my rock.
I'll get some action shots and video up in a few days.

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[Trubble]

Originally Posted by jollyjeeper

Thanks to Conflict, I have a 35mm screw for the Two Screw mod.

Been staring at my rear axle working on getting up the nerve to break out the drill. Wondered how long of a screw I'd need.