Xr10 questions

[malonefamily2003]

HI guys I'm new to Crawling . I've done a lot of searching over the last few weeks but need some help and advice from the crawling Gods here. I bought a used Xr10 and want to do some upgrades so i can out crawl my little brother with his Xr10 . Running the Novak M2 dig esc with dual 45t Tekins a weak Hitec servo and Traxxas Summit Rx/Tx. I ordered the light weight gears from RC4WD and installed the rear so far . Will be tearing it back apart soon to do the 2 bolt mod. I removed the weight system and the small foams from the front tires.

Some of my plans : Make it as light as possible on a budget. Some titanium axle shafts if anyone still makes them . Savox 1230sg steering servo with 500 oz of torque . Maybe a carbon fiber chassis . A good set of Voodoo tires foams and Carbon fiber rims. I have been looking at the Shift hubs from Lattice Innovations but not sure what rims I want yet or what all rims they work with. I would like to widen the axles to make it more stable since i have no plans to compete with the rig. I want to remove the battery tray and receiver box . Move the batt to the front axle and drop down to a 850 mah 3s. I already ordered a cheap bec to help take some work off the esc.

So mainly looking for advice on the lightest wheels out there. I have looked at the Vendor section for 2 weeks straight and cant make heads or tales with all the options. I do like OFFROADRC KOREAS 2.2 and the Dlux 2.2 . IF there are other options out there i would like to see them. Glue ons would work if they will be much lighter then other beadlocks. Any advice or tips would be great . Dont be afraid to let me know something I'm doing wrong.

[crawlinghulls]

Can't speak for other wheels but the Dlux wheels are very tough. Many run glue-ons and you will save some weight, I just haven't taken the plunge. If you go with glue ons stay away from Delran as it does not glue well

[malonefamily2003]

Originally Posted by crawlinghulls

Can't speak for other wheels but the Dlux wheels are very tough. Many run glue-ons and you will save some weight, I just haven't taken the plunge. If you go with glue ons stay away from Delran as it does not glue well

Thanks for the tip i will keep that in mind when i order rims.

[Silverdirt]

RcBros 3 Piece Carbon Fiber 2.2 Wheels

[winnerone23]

Shift hubs work with All wheels.. All wheels that take VP hubs.. Which are Most all in the hobby..
CreeperBob for ti rear axle's..

HH or Hitec servo.. A HH servo is about the same cost as the 1230..

[Constant Threat]

6-Bolt Performance Wheels - 2.2"; 1" Width; Glue - on; Axial & VP SLW Hub Compatible
These might not be the lightest but they keep the budget in mind

[Constant Threat]

I agree with winner on the HH servo better all the way around.

[Savagethrash]

On a budget for LW I would use the CI rims or some of the b44 buggy rims if you like the dish look. Wheels are generally where you will drop the most weight. In my opinion keeping the rotating mass down should help for having a nice and responsive crawler.

Another thing that is overlooked on budget setups is being able to use dig smoothly and fluently. It makes a big difference. I'm not sure what radio you are running but don't hesitate to mod it a bit so its comfortable and easy to use.

Depending how handy you are and what tools you have available will dictate how cheaply you can drop weight. For me that was primarily wheels. I dropped more weight than I expected and now am suffering a little bit having foams that are a little stuff. Getting electrics clean and tucked away nicely is good too.

If you post up some photos I am sure we can throw some ideas at you to drop weight on the cheap

[malonefamily2003]

Thanks everyone for the advise. I already have the Savox just waiting on the Bec before i install it.
I really like the RcBros 3 Piece Carbon Fiber 2.2 Wheels much cheaper then the Dlux.
I had a little time to work on it tonight. I removed the battery and electronics tray and pulled the plastic housing off the receiver. I don't need to run a body so i got rid of the body post as well. I moved the shock mounts to the outside of the chassis . That made the 2 center chassis standoffs too short so i ditched them to. The chassis is more flexible now but not sure if its too weak. I also removed 2 screws from each beadlock ring.

I started to remove the heat sink fins from the esc but not sure if that is i smart thing to do?. I could cut about an inch off each motor wire. Tomorrow i will dremel off the nubs on the rims that hold the bullet weights in since i don't plan to run weights. Need to put a thin coat of liquid tape on the receiver just in case it gets wet. the Savox has much shorter wires then the Hitec on there now so that should help clean up the wiring.

Once again thanks for the help!!!

[FLOKI-81]

you dont need wheels from dlux unless you have the loaded dize weights that he offers with his superlites axels,,
the dlux wheels you need to build very different from the other 3 or 5 piece wheels...

[Savagethrash]

Originally Posted by malonefamily2003

I started to remove the heat sink fins from the esc but not sure if that is i smart thing to do?

Once again thanks for the help!!!

I'm going to be undertaking a decase and heatsink shrink on the M2Dig in the next couple of weeks hopefully. I can let you know how it goes or feel free to let me know if you do it first. I'm planning to decase, epoxy everything but the top of the VRMs and then throw some smaller heatsinks on it. Will see how it goes

[malonefamily2003]

Stripped the esc down and coated it and the receiver with liquid tape then stacked the receiver on top of the esc. Then glued them to the skid plate. I also shortened the motor wires.

I did a little dremel work to the back part of the beadlock on the rear wheels.
http://


couple picks of the rig so far.

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[SiameseDog]

Looks like you've got a nice start and a capable rig in the near future! Do you have any more pics of the decased m2? I'm running that big clunker as well as a friend of mine and boy would I love to shrink it in size and weight for that matter.

Thanks,
Lando

[malonefamily2003]

Originally Posted by SiameseDog

Looks like you've got a nice start and a capable rig in the near future! Do you have any more pics of the decased m2? I'm running that big clunker as well as a friend of mine and boy would I love to shrink it in size and weight for that matter.

Thanks,
Lando

Sorry but i didnt take pics of the esc and i made the motor wires so short i would have to unsolder them to take pics of it.

[VipersByte]

Anyone know where I can get the axle mounting battery tray for the xr10 by chance?

[FLOKI-81]

hear with rowdy racing...

[opek]

Originally Posted by FLOKI-81

hear with rowdy racing...

Not anymore

[malonefamily2003]

Ordered 2 sets of the Vanquish SLW 475 hubs. If they dont keep the front tires from rubbing the springs i will try the Shift hubs.

[FLOKI-81]

Originally Posted by VipersByte

Anyone know where I can get the axle mounting battery tray for the xr10 by chance?

I made on myself just like the one rowdy used to make...
It was pretty easy to make with some aluminium,,
just bend the two places that is mounted on the shockmount and on the transcan...
If you check out my build tread under the xr10 section (My xr10 reptile build)
you will see my homemade batterytray...

[MountainStorm]

If you haven't done it already perform some basic reliability mods to the axles. In short add 2 screws to clamp the rear and replace the small bearings with Oilite bushings to avoid tearing up the gears right away. You can drill the motor plates to accept larger flanged bearings and that will make a huge difference in how long it lasts between tear downs. That teensy flanged bearing supporting the middle (smallest) gear in the set will blow out in no time.

The next most obvious improvement IMO is to get all the steering the front axle has to give...and it's a ton more than with the stock linkages. You'll need VP Wraith knuckles (old style) and some RC Bros steering arms to "get r done" as well as a mod to the front axle and a new tie link BTA. Clock that axle to get the clearance and clock the C Hubs to get the steering to work right and you will be flat out amazed at the gain in capability when crawling.

RC4WD hardened gears are lighter than stock. You can also replace the shafts in the gear set with Titanium ones.

Have fun!