More shock travel in the front or rear?

[Savagethrash]

Hey guys,

I picked up some big bores and am in the process of installing them but was wondering (they came pre limited externally) do people tend to limit the front or rear more.

I've installed them as I received them and I put more travel up front with pink mini springs and less travel out back with the orange springs. I'm note sure of the oil weights but the front is definitely softer than the rear is.

Here are photos for anyone interested. Please ignore the basher cab I have on it now

Any opinions?

[Curcal]

My set ups usually have less travel in the rear (but not by much), but my shocks are the same at all four corners.

[mr4x4king]

mine are the same on all 4 also

[Ecranu]

Originally Posted by Curcal

My set ups usually have less travel in the rear (but not by much), but my shocks are the same at all four corners.

Would definitely like to try this. What are the advantages/disadvantages, Curcal?

[Curcal]

With limited articulation you can float tires over holes and your rear axle wont over extend and turn you over

[FLOKI-81]

if you want a lower ride hight you can limit the shocks on the inside,,
but if you only want less droop on the shocks you limit the shocks on the outside,,

[EeePee]

Think about what happens to the opposite corner tire when the shock reaches the limit of its travel.

[MountainStorm]

I've tried some odd set ups with the XR10 including cantilevered front shocks. I've come around to running unlimited shocks all the same length on all 4 corners but I like less angle on the rear shocks which naturally restricts the total range of travel. The more upright the stiffer and less travel you get. One way to eyeball engineer spring rates etc is to lift a wheel by hand and see if the diagonally opposed shock bottoms out exactly when the one you are lifting bottoms out and to tune spring rates/angle until that happens. I don't like it when one shock bottoms out way before the other...then the rig is flippy and floppy and unpredictable on a side hill. I look for about one tire height of articulation. I've tried less and more than that and for my 5 pound rig it works better if the articulation is moderate. Then there's oil and pistons and all that jazz to fine tune how slow or fast the wheels can drop into a hole etc. It's more like a black art than a science and every driver will find a different set up that suits their terrain/driving style & skill/vehicle weight & chassis.

[EeePee]

I had a truck that wouldn't climb steps on the diagonal. Then I replaced the rear shocks with solid links and it went right up. Pushing the fronts down because of weight transfer. That led to a conversation which led to a weird ass forced articulation truck that was so cool, but it did have one huge flaw I never cared to work out.

Lemme find that thread just to give some people something to look at. Those were the days...

Videos don't work so don't bother.

No shocks or springs, forced articulation shafty

[Del Monte]

Originally Posted by EeePee

Think about what happens to the opposite corner tire when the shock reaches the limit of its travel.

Exactly. At some point the rear shock needs to bottom out and start putting pressure on the front tires.

Limiting the rear shock extension will keep the axle from extending too far from the chassis on a climb.

There's a sweet spot of travel that is different for every chassis.

[EeePee]

Guys, when Del Monte speaks up, you listen.

[Savagethrash]

Thanks guys, just had the rig out today for a pack and I liked the feel of it, haven't really changed much on the setup from the way I received it. Nice time for a little more input.

Play time ended when I went over on a climb and the battery smoked a rock and let out its smoke. Thought I had toasted all the electrics but thankfully just a 1ah pack

Not sure what caused the pack to go but one cell wasn't showing up when I checked it so must be something internal.