This is a Monster....Yeti XL is a fitting name!!!

[redsawacs]

**EDIT** When posting with a quote, please remove any pictures inside that quote unless they are relevent to the current post so we aren't cluttering the thread with tons of pictures being reposted. Those with slow computers and weak graphic cards will thank us all!! Thanks a ton and enjoy!

OH MY LORD! This thing is HUGE! 7.3" tires?!?! REALLY!!?!?!?!


Started my build last night and I got the front and rear diffs build and installed. I have to say, with the 2 shims on each pinion, this is the best feeling diff I have ever built!!! BUTTER SMOOTH!

I'm going to use the 20,000 diff fluid but I'm not happy that the top on the bottle popped off 2 times spewing diff oil all over my hands and workbench!

Errors in the manual I have found so far:
1) the diff bearings are listed as 8x16x5 but it is suppose to be 10x16x5
2) Front body mount to front shock tower mounting screws are not listed in the build section, I had to reference the exploded view in the rear for a part number and size
3) AX31298 .2mm shims for the front axle just behind the 17mm hub are not listed in the manual I got - BUT, they are listed in the ELECTRONIC manual ONLINE!
4) Several screw size errors in the cage section
5) Front hubs and knuckles were not labeled correctly (sub numbers)

[DadC14]

That's funny, I have the same picture of my daughter on my phone with the tire in front of her face, I still cant get over the size of these things! I had the same issue when building my diffs last night, kids thought it was funny when it popped off an got all over everything!

[redsawacs]

Great minds think alike!

Lets keep comparing notes over the following days - should be fun to see if we both run into the same issues!

[DadC14]

Sounds good, we'll do! You plan on running 4s or 6s or other? I am still on the fence, I am waiting to see some more comments on how the kit handles 6s and what else I may need to do upgrade wise if any.

[redsawacs]

Well, I am limited to 4s for now. I am going to purchase an 1.8 scale Truggy in the coming months and I wanted a system that I could use in both. So, I bought a Tekin RX8 gen 2 with a 2000kv motor. That motor is limited to 4s because it is designed for racing and they only allow 4s for racing. Sooooooo, down the road, I plan to change out the system for a castle creations system to allow for 6s....but, then I'll have to buy more batteries and I'm not excited about that prospect at all!


HUGE AXLE!

[DadC14]

Right on, I went with castle on this one and will get some new batteries ordered by the end of the week. Didn't get much assembled this evening, but the front shock tower attachment to the diff/bulk gave me some fits. Had to grind the underside of the shock tower a little to get it to fit properly. Snugged things up and its good to go I hope....

[redsawacs]

I almost threw the thing across the room when installing the steering rack top plate.....good lord!

[JBryant]

Picked up my kit yesterday, it really is massive! I got all the tires glues and the shocks built. Waiting on the fast eddies bearing kit before i get into the rest of the kit.

[Rjohn929]

Originally Posted by redsawacs

I almost threw the thing across the room when installing the steering rack top plate.....good lord!

I wish they used aluminum posts instead. I'll probably cut them off and make my own. I also do not like the long screws to hold the steering rack in. I ordered a few longer screws to go all the way through so I can put a nut on it.

[redsawacs]

Originally Posted by JBryant

Picked up my kit yesterday, it really is massive! I got all the tires glues and the shocks built. Waiting on the fast eddies bearing kit before i get into the rest of the kit.

I thought about upgrading the bearings but, I have never had issues with Axial bearings. I wear them out in time but I have yet to "destroy" one. So, when the time comes, I'll order through my company since there is no clear advantage between bearings...I order from the one who treats me right. I'm the customer and I'll choose who I give my money too.....gotta be worthy of my business! I do like the fact that Fast Eddie has kits, makes it easy. I also like my company's free shipping and discount I receive when I order of 40$!

Originally Posted by Rjohn929

I wish they used aluminum posts instead. I'll probably cut them off and make my own. I also do not like the long screws to hold the steering rack in. I ordered a few longer screws to go all the way thorugh so I can put a nut on it.

Thats a great idea! I'm sure it will be easy to add the aluminum or metal post throught the steering arms as well. I'm considering an aluminum drag link too....we'll see how the current steering holds up before I go into major upgrades.

YES I"M DYING TO DRIVE - UPGRADES LATER!!!

[redsawacs]

I added 4 shims to the front axle but it was too tight, I took one out and things turned out ALRIGHT!



These 4 screws and the two pivot pin nuts were a PAIN IN THE REAR! The hinge pin nuts were too close to the housing to get a conventional tool in there, I ended up using a Craftsman 7mm Open end wrench and not as intended to get the nuts installed. The 4 lower plate screws have to go into blind posts on the inside of the chassis - what made it difficult, those posts float around and you cant get to them with your fingers or a tool to align them for the screws - took me 40 minutes to install the front assembly to the chassis......FAIL!

[JBryant]

Originally Posted by redsawacs

I added 4 shims to the front axle but it was too tight, I took one out and things turned out ALRIGHT!

These 4 screws and the two pivot pin nuts were a PAIN IN THE REAR! The hinge pin nuts were too close to the housing to get a conventional tool in there, I ended up using a Craftsman 7mm Open end wrench and not as intended to get the nuts installed. The 4 lower plate screws have to go into blind posts on the inside of the chassis - what made it difficult, those posts float around and you cant get to them with your fingers or a tool to align them for the screws - took me 40 minutes to install the front assembly to the chassis......FAIL!

Getting those last 4 screws in way a bit tricky for me as well. I ended up loosening the 5 screws holding the plate to the front diff and that allowed me to get the last 4 lined up easily.

Also found that i'm missing a couple of screws so far or have too many of one length, and not enough of the other.

[redsawacs]

I too had to loosen the other screws to get everything to align correctly....at least I dont have to take out 19 screws to get the cage off - LOL (exo terra)!

I have not ran into any hardware shortage issues, but I do see that the manual I have lists different hardware than is included in the kit and needed per step. I look at the picture, determine what hardware they call for in that step and sometimes, its either too short or no description at all.

Last night I managed to get the electronics tenatively installed, I think the servo and receiver are in permanently at this point but the ESC needs wiring. I installed my BEC directly to the servo and just fed the signal wire into the receiver. With that, I wanted to put the BEC in the receiver box but it wouldn't fit. SOOOOO, I made it fit! All I had to do was dremel out the webbing on the inside of the top cover and it fit like a glove!!! I hope the rest of this beast comes together this easy!

[redsawacs]

The transmission went together without a hitch - almost. Over the years of building and rebuilding RC transmissions, this is the first one that told me to put the bearing on the shafts then fit them into the case.....yea, right! So, I simply installed the bearings into the case and then assembled the transmission as directed....makes it SO much easier!

The one thing I ran into that I was not comfortable with was the 2 4mm bolts that torque the motor in place. Those bolts (screws) go into a very tough composite material so I decided to get my 4mm tap and tap those 2 holes almost all the way. This made it so much easier to get the bolts in but at the bottom, it still had tough material that would hold the bolts from backing out. Aside from that, no issues with the trans or motor install.

[DadC14]

Good idea on the BEC fitting into the receiver box, keep up the updates, they are appreciated! I'm making progress, but have had some interruptions, looking forward to getting this hoss built. Out of curiosity did you use the stock plastic pivot balls or go with steel? I'll probably ride out the stockers until they wear out, gives me an excuse to buy more goods down the road.

[JBryant]

Originally Posted by redsawacs

The one thing I ran into that I was not comfortable with was the 2 4mm bolts that torque the motor in place. Those bolts (screws) go into a very tough composite material so I decided to get my 4mm tap and tap those 2 holes almost all the way. This made it so much easier to get the bolts in but at the bottom, it still had tough material that would hold the bolts from backing out. Aside from that, no issues with the trans or motor install.

i ran into this as well, except i didn't have a tap. felt like i was going to break my wrench!

[redsawacs]

I am using everything Stock from the kit. The only think I am changing is the rear shock fluid. I am going to use 30 weight all the way around at first to see how it feels. Using a 1.4x4 30 wt in front and a 1.4x6 10 wt in the rear made no sense to me. Thats crazy thin in the rear with little pack and absorption. We shall see. Took almost the entire bottle of fluid to fill the 4 shocks! LOL

Yes, I am using the stock ball ends as well. I'm sure they will wear out in time, hopefully the 2 speed trans gears will be available when I need to steel balls and I can do it all at once.

The hardward notes in the manual are all over the place wrong - I guess I got the draft version of the manual. Managed to figure everything out but what a pain it was.

Here is the only serious issue I have run into so far - when I mount the cage, the front mount pins dont line up correctly, I have to force the body back and the pins forward to get them to go into the holes - I have looked over everything on the cage and the front shock tower mount - I cant see how I got anything wrong.



Last thing I'll mention is the lower spring cup on the shocks is SUPER loose on the rod end - I'm going to look around for something fatter to fit the springs cup better. I can see myself easily losing springs cups.....

[redsawacs]

I still need to wire up the motor and battery connectors, paint the body and glue the wheels but here she is - HUGE! I am not a fan of the weak body pivots in the rear of the cage - those are going to break in a heartbeat. I hope someone makes an aluminum one or perhaps something stronger than this silly plastic - only time will tell.

[Rjohn929]

I thought the same thing on the cage. Thought I screwed up somewhere so I painted the body pieces and mounted them up. When I put the cage back on everything lined up perfect. Not sure what changed but everything was where it needed to be.

My only real issue was mounting the tires. The bead does not sit in the wheel very well. I couldn't get them glued tight to the wheel at all.

[JBryant]

The manual definitely has some issues.

I finished mine up last night too. There are a few things i'm going to go back and change though. For one, rear shock oil... i ran the 10wt just to see what it would be like. well, it's dumb. it bounces, a lot! reminds me of my first car back in high school that had blown struts. My fast eddies bearing should be here today, i'll probably swap out the easy ones this afternoon if i get bored.

Other than those few things, i'm just going to go back and tweak the camber and toe to get it all even. Then i have to figure out what i'm going to do for paint. I'm thinking black and orange. it's been a LONG time since i've painted a body though. We need a dedicated thread for pictures so i can get some ideas!