YXL Tribulation

[tonyfalkon]

First off Yeti XL is eye popping can't believe how good it looked when I unboxed it was a site to see color scheme is top notch I actually stopped and just looked at it for a couple of hours. I'm new at this and it took me about six months of research until I finally decided on the Yeti XL RTR, this actually is my first RC struggled a bit between the RTR and the kit, eventually I settled on an RTR and bought it at RC Planet. I got it six days ago and after a couple of hours ogling at it I went and took a closer look found some scratches on the driver side panel, the axial sticker logo on the top had air bubbles, upon further inspection found the shock really soft and when I opened the shocks it was only half filled had to wait another two days for the shock oil I ordered to arrive. Since I had some time before the shock oils arrived I checked on other things, I found that the slipper adjustment that was supposed to be 3 mm from factory, was way off, some screws were loose and the cross wrench provided was as good as paper weight. Rounded one of the wheel hub nuts with the cross wrench and had to use my own sockets, it wasn't until I rounded another wheel hub nut that I realize the nuts were not far out enough for even a regular wrench to get a good grip on it. When I finally got to playing it though it was a blast bashing it and my son enjoyed playing with it too that was until the rear drive shaft popped out today and I thought I got everything buttoned up. Oh and I forgot to mention the occasional hiccups in the communication between the transmitter and the receiver it matters not the distance it happens. The first thing I checked was the battery charge I thought I had a faulty battery but the battery had ample charge, brand new batteries by the way, I check the motor temp when the hiccups occurred and the highest it has been was 140 degrees Fahrenheit. And if I forgot to mention I'm new at this first RTR and new batteries.

If I had known that it was gonna be this troublesome I would have opted for the kit , would have documented with photographs and videoed everything starting from the unboxing. Its disappointing that after all those months of weighting my options and agonizing which RC to go with I ended with this one. I chose the RTR because I opted to have fun with my first RC, I was gonna go with a kit later down the road. At least if I went with the kit I have only myself to blame, and with the price I had to pay for the RTR I expected less disappointment and more fun coz in the end isn't that what its all about.

My condolences to others who have experience this and to the veterans who have posted here and already put up red flags on the product my apologies, I should have waited and looked in deeper into this product before I bought into it and to the people that have yet to buy this product please take this with a grain of salt it could be that this is one of those lemons out of a thousand that I was lucky enough to receive maybe your RTR would be better than mine.

[Damnir]

I commend you on taking it apart before you took it for a rip. Probably the best thing you can do with a RTR kit. There will always be a loose screw here and there, even when you decide to build the kit (stuff happens, you overlook things). As far as a scratch or two, that will happen within 5 minutes of having it out where it belongs. If you are really displeased with the air bubbles in the stickers (it's a PITA to get them on perfectly and straight- had a hell of a time with the kit), just use a hobby knife and poke a small hole in the bubble, it'll release the air and you'll be left with a tiny black dot instead of a blob.

I haven't experienced the drive shaft falling out, so I have no suggestions on that one. Electronics are always hit and miss, I've had my fair share of duds in RTR kits (not Axial). Best of luck! Like any new RC, you'll iron out the quirks and you'll find a happy groove afterwards. I consider the first 5 packs in an RC a highlighter, things will rattle loose, glitch, etc... It WILL get better and you can resume the fun.

[seannoslo]

I've been buying/building axial products for a couple years now, and I will say the kits are the way to go. That said, Axial has excellent customer support. On a recent purchase of Axial beadlock rims from my local hobby shop, I found both sets of rims had several screws missing. Instead of throwing a fit down at the shop, I found Axial tech support number on their website. Once I was on with a service tech, I explained the situation. He said that he was already aware of the issue. Asked for my address info, and then said he had "hardware on the way". 2 days later I got 2 NEW sets of rims! I know its a much smaller item than a whole truck, but if you make a call and explain the problems you are having, I'm sure they can assist you with your issues. Good Luck!

[redsawacs]

Tonyfalkon,

Let me start by telling you what I think of your post....I'm just kidding! WELCOME TO RCCRAWLER! You are well on your way to enjoying the Yeti XL and Axial in general! You're doing all the right things. The best thing you have done so far, research!!!! Unfortunately, you got one that needs attention. That will happen. I would love to know how the rear drive shaft popped out.

Do yourself a few favors in order make this rig a contender - STRONG servo, rear torsion bar, aluminum steering link, some 17mm wheels and hex adapters and move the rear shocks to the rear holes.

I can share this about the stock Axial controller, I have range issues with SOME, not all. It is the receiver. Call Axial Customer Support and explain what you're seeing. I would encourage you to upgrade to a better radio as soon as you get the funds to do so.

The RTR Servo is a joke! You're going to smoke that thing, if you haven't already while I'm typing this post. You need the strongest one you can afford....more than 350oz for sure. The stock one is about 145oz...bad bad bad!

Steering has too much flex in the drag link under the front diff....want more steering? Get an aluminum one to stiffen it up. While you're at it, consider steel camber links and tie rods. (kit version)

Do make sure your slipper is working - should slip a little bit on whatever surface you're running on. If not, you're going to shock the drive train and break teeth.

If I'm not mistaken, the TRAXXAS 17mm hexes will fit on this rig and you can use larger wheels to minimize any hex damage or wheel nut frustration in the future.

Little things here and there will make it a very solid rig - sorry your got one that was made on "hangover monday"! LOL

Feel free to ask questions. Again, welcome to RCCrawler and welcome to the addiction!

Red

[tonyfalkon]

Originally Posted by Damnir

I commend you on taking it apart before you took it for a rip. Probably the best thing you can do with a RTR kit. There will always be a loose screw here and there, even when you decide to build the kit (stuff happens, you overlook things). As far as a scratch or two, that will happen within 5 minutes of having it out where it belongs. If you are really displeased with the air bubbles in the stickers (it's a PITA to get them on perfectly and straight- had a hell of a time with the kit), just use a hobby knife and poke a small hole in the bubble, it'll release the air and you'll be left with a tiny black dot instead of a blob.

I haven't experienced the drive shaft falling out, so I have no suggestions on that one. Electronics are always hit and miss, I've had my fair share of duds in RTR kits (not Axial). Best of luck! Like any new RC, you'll iron out the quirks and you'll find a happy groove afterwards. I consider the first 5 packs in an RC a highlighter, things will rattle loose, glitch, etc... It WILL get better and you can resume the fun.

I can get past the cosmetics I mentioned it because its just one of those things that just snowballed after a very disappointing day. After buttoning this and that I just got overwhelmed at the number of things that were supposed to be taken cared off before they shipped the product.

[tonyfalkon]

Originally Posted by seannoslo

I've been buying/building axial products for a couple years now, and I will say the kits are the way to go. That said, Axial has excellent customer support. On a recent purchase of Axial beadlock rims from my local hobby shop, I found both sets of rims had several screws missing. Instead of throwing a fit down at the shop, I found Axial tech support number on their website. Once I was on with a service tech, I explained the situation. He said that he was already aware of the issue. Asked for my address info, and then said he had "hardware on the way". 2 days later I got 2 NEW sets of rims! I know its a much smaller item than a whole truck, but if you make a call and explain the problems you are having, I'm sure they can assist you with your issues. Good Luck!

I just checked my email and they have responded quickly, immana go give them a call tomorrow I'm still trying to see what else is loose and in need of attention then immana give em a call. TY for the tip and support.

[tonyfalkon]

Originally Posted by redsawacs

Tonyfalkon,

Do make sure your slipper is working - should slip a little bit on whatever surface you're running on. If not, you're going to shock the drive train and break teeth.

Feel free to ask questions. Again, welcome to RCCrawler and welcome to the addiction!

Red

Immana have to research that I have no clue how that works you may have to school me on that or direct me to the discussion thread where they touched this subject.

Originally Posted by redsawacs

Tonyfalkon,

Do yourself a few favors in order make this rig a contender - STRONG servo, rear torsion bar, aluminum steering link, some 17mm wheels and hex adapters and move the rear shocks to the rear holes.


Red

Right now I find the servo adequate for my skill level or the lack thereof, my son and I drive it full throttle thru 6 inch high grass at the park even when turning if I put in a bigger servo we will roll it more often than we do now. But you are right I need a more powerful servo as soon as I get used to playing with RC's that will be upgraded. When I got this YXL it is literally my third time to play with an RC. Torsion Bar Aluminum steering links most definitely after 2 runs the front tires are wobbly. Hex adapters will probably the first to go since I need to look inside the axle and make sure that it is greased properly. Might go with the hot racing 17mm hex hubs its a direct fit that is if I can get those rounded nuts out safely.

Originally Posted by redsawacs

Tonyfalkon,

I can share this about the stock Axial controller, I have range issues with SOME, not all. It is the receiver. Call Axial Customer Support and explain what you're seeing. I would encourage you to upgrade to a better radio as soon as you get the funds to do so.


Red

I actually have a hitec transmitter and receiver when I was deciding between the kit and the RTR I couldn't decipher the hitec manual its like written in a different language and the fact that it is for plane application so I went with the RTR but as soon as I can understand how this thing works, its in.

There is one thing that bugs me though when I look at the video reviews of the YXL all of them have a capacitor attached below the Deans plug mine did not come with one. Whats the advantage of having one or without, although on amain they have one same as mine but they indicated that its a replacement part seen here and yet another one of those small things that contributes to the disappointment.

[Rjohn929]

The servo doesn't make the truck flip, you and your driving skill does.

[redsawacs]

The capacitor is used to smooth the power delivery in high end electronics. I assume it is in the pictures as the prototype. It is not needed.

[keebler1510]

Originally Posted by redsawacs

The capacitor is used to smooth the power delivery in high end electronics. I assume it is in the pictures as the prototype. It is not needed.

You are right. The early versions of the rtr had the capacitor installed as mine does. In the esc they sent out later it wasn't there as castle apparently changed the capacitors inside the esc to not need the big external one. Someone else actually discussed this in another thread. If your rtr came with the cap installed then you would need one if not don't worry about it.

[molina]

Upon receiving my Yeti XL I had some issues as you explained. Being built on a production line I expected the missed things and half done jobs here and there. Usually it's nothing too serious but does get frustrating. The one main gripe I have is that the front end went out on mine within 3 batteries. Not sure how but it was working fine brought it home cleaned her up put it away go get it out to rip it around and the front diff is making all kinds of whacky noises. Pulled it apart and it was toast. Not sure what happened between parking it and it's final run but it's got a new home now and my Yeti kit is complete and hopefully bulletproof. I do plan on building an XL down the road when there is more aftermarket support.

[tonyfalkon]

Got done playing at the beach today and I notice on the bench that there is slight resistance free spinning the front wheels. As to be expected I guess bashing on the sand and sand dunes I suspect some sand got in the front differential. Did I mention the wheel nuts got stripped rounded, I've been searching the net how to remove them without damaging the wheels or the Front Axle Stub, so far nada. The recurring advice is to use a dremel, even the hobby shops seem to favor this solution, still looking though hopefully I may find a solution before the sunsets. Any suggestions ???

Oh I forgot to mention a tire came lose I guess I need to buy glue too.

[Pavmentsurfer]

The things you have experienced with your rtr are not unique to axial. ANY rtr you buy will have a few things here and there that aren't right or need attention. Loose screws are number one. After you've owned 5 or 6 rtrs you'll get used to simply checking the truck over before its first run and getting all the little issues sorted out.

Scratches on the plastic is perfectly normal. Want to see scratches, buy a Traxxas...

Air bubbles in the decals is also normal. Though it's something that bugs me too, especially if the sticker is on a flat surface.

The wheel Hexs on all trucks can get rounded if your not careful and yes, the wrench provided is junk. It would have been better to just use your own tools from the start. Not your fault though, but not really an axial problem either. If there was no wrench you'd probably say "they don't even supply a wheel nut wrench"

As for the driveshaft, this is something your just going to have to t used to wih this hobby in general. Want to talk driveshaft problems, again, buy a Traxxas stampede and get back to later. Lol, no RC is bulletproof... They all have weak points and, sadly, they all need an upgrade or two out of the box to be reliable. It may be a driveshaft, servo, bulkhead, tie rod or shoc mount... Every truck is different. From what I'm reading and hearing from people I truct, the yeti XL is actually a great platform and is very tough out of the box. A weak servo and servo linkage seem to be the first things to address.

If you stick with this truck,meet the kinks worked out and give yourself some time to learn not just this buggy but this hobby in general, I think you'll be very happy. For a 2nd truck though, I'd suggest something smaller and simpler. My personal favourite is the Traxxas stampede... It's not as impressive to look at, but it's so simple and easy to understand/work on. It's a great way to your feet wet before tackling more complicated vehicles like the YXL

[tonyfalkon]

Morning was hoping you guys can help me with a problem I'm having on the YXL RTR front end. After my last run I noticed that the front wheels are harder to free spin than the rear. I have checked the bearings on the front end 2 on each carriers, 2 on the differential and 2 on the gear of the front drive shaft. I pulled everything apart even the rear axle to compare what I may have done wrong but I don't see any difference. But the rear is easier to free spin than the front. They have the same weight oil 20K, there are no protruding screws. I assembled the front end and step by step and as I add other components I spin the differential with no problems but when I hold the center drive shaft and spin it thats when it gets hard to spin (by that I mean the dog bone that connects to the transmission). I tried the same procedure with the rear differential no problems, even when I attached everything to the chassis. when I first got the RTR free spinning front or rear wheels required a little effort, now just the rear. Any thoughts ???

[redsawacs]

When you install what part do you start to notice the "drag"?

[tonyfalkon]

Originally Posted by redsawacs

When you install what part do you start to notice the "drag"?

When the front center drive shaft is connected other than that its fine. I went ahead and had it checked, the 2 hobby shop couldn't find anything wrong with it aside from the heavier drag from the front than the rear. Ran it today and took the whole front end apart, all bearing were smooth, the differential case was intact, no plastic shavings anywhere. After I put it back together slight drag is still there.

I'm starting to think that its just perception, maybe the rear is smoother coz its a straight axle but I coulda sworn when I unboxed it front and rear had equal drag.

[tonyfalkon]

Another hiccup ??

[BobTeagle]

Motivation for a 17mm hex conversion..

[tonyfalkon]

Just when I think my tribulations have taken a lil nap the servo stopped working, but just to be sure anyone know how I can be sure that the servo is burned??? I just played this thing this morning and it was fine and now wheels didn't turn when the batteries were connected.

[BEELZEBOB]

Check all connections.

Smell the servo.

If all of the connections are good, and the servo smells like you put a fork in the microwave, you let the magic smoke out.

Are you running a BEC?