locked diff's any luck

[ferp420]

I've been fighting broken parts since I locked my rear diff I'm only running on 3s I've broken the pins 3 times I even tryed a hardend pin and it only broke in 2 one pin was s shaped one pin snapped and took out the diff housing any one have any luck running locked diff's I had to put my open diff back in

[ferp420]

[Deckard]

That's some nasty carnage. Are you using the HR spool? I wonder if the HR aluminum diff cup would help? Personally, I think there's too much power (even on 3s) for the tiny drive train in the YXL. I'm no engineer but big massive truck with 1/10 scale diffs....not good.

[Tzicul]

Try to use the straight end of a drill bit. Toughest metal out there

[ferp420]

It was a hr spool it dident hold up to well Ive only run 5 packs through the yeti and only 3 where with the spool installed I didn't use a drill bit but it was a hardend tool steel pin I am going to go with the aluminum housing at some point but I can't afford it right now I dought I'm gona go back to a spool Im giving up on it being a crawler

[McD]

I've got 5-6 pack thru mine with the front and rears locked, with over half of them pulling my 60lb daughter on her snow sled. I haven't heard it grinding yet "crossing fingers"


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[BarHarborBasher]

I jb weld my spider gears and my only problem was breaking a output in half !!!! 6s with screws studded tires whadaya expect !!
I stayed away from the aluminum spools because they are soft compared to the jb setup... I've been running the plastic diff cup with out a fail so far!

[McD]

Yeah I'm now more curious to see how my aluminum lockers are holding up. There are two videos at the bottom of the tire chain post of the XL pulling in the snow 4S &2S.
Were you running on high traction surfaces? And did you normally get into a bind situation crawling? I know the 2.5mm high strength pins take a lot in shear don't remember exactly but it seemed like a lot for a small pin. Did the aluminum locker pin slots get wallowed out causing the ability for more of an impact and heat. Mine straight out of the package seemed to have a decent amount of play. And another one did you have any grease in the diff?


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[Deckard]

Crawling is hard the drivetrain. I don't know if beefier axels or just a better spool is needed. I'm sure a 2200kv system even on 3s stresses the drivetrain much more crawling than go fast.

I still say the YXL is designed to launch over the rocks, maybe touch a few as you drive over them at 30 or 40 mph. A Wraith or SCX10 will do a much better job going slowly over those same rocks. The Bomber can do both (that's why I love it).

I would love to see a crawler YXL. I enjoyed seeing the road YXL (are there videos of that?). It's awesome to see someone take these bad ass RCs and make them into what they want them to be.

[BarHarborBasher]

[QUOTE=McD;5456583]Yeah I'm now more curious to see how my aluminum lockers are holding up. There are two videos at the bottom of the tire chain post of the XL pulling in the snow 4S &2S.
Were you running on high traction surfaces? And did you normally get into a bind situation crawling? I know the 2.5mm high strength pins take a lot in shear don't remember exactly but it seemed like a lot for a small pin. Did the aluminum locker pin slots get wallowed out causing the ability for more of an impact and heat. Mine straight out of the package seemed to have a decent amount of play. And another one did you have any grease in the diff?


yep this is exactly why I didn't go with the aluminum spool plus I haven't herd one good thing about the quality of HR 's material & finished tolerances.....a little slop and its ovhA !! how tight do they fit into the plastic diff cup channels ? that was another question I asked my self before I Ebayed them lol

love watching you yarding the kiddoes' around !! It made me design a rese hitch for my mighty XL
thanks for the vid!

[BarHarborBasher]

Originally Posted by Deckard

Crawling is hard the drivetrain. I don't know if beefier axels or just a better spool is needed. I'm sure a 2200kv system even on 3s stresses the drivetrain much more crawling than go fast.

I still say the YXL is designed to launch over the rocks, maybe touch a few as you drive over them at 30 or 40 mph. A Wraith or SCX10 will do a much better job going slowly over those same rocks. The Bomber can do both (that's why I love it).

I would love to see a crawler YXL. I enjoyed seeing the road YXL (are there videos of that?). It's awesome to see someone take these bad ass RCs and make them into what they want them to be.

No way Man !!! crawling has been WAY easier on my XL than Bashing !!!!! I come home smiling every time ... I haven't broke one thing crawling !~!!! the output snapped with my 20 tooth cooking donuts in 2wd...
my BHB high clearance mod with the Dhawk 2 speed (4 to 1 ratio), JB locker mod, 11 tooth pinion and its one of the funniest things you'll ever drive !!!! I've got vids I post today for ya ... I was holding the phone wile driving and you know how that goes... not production material.. and yes the yeti XL is a krawler!!! and BTW my high clearance can drive over your bomber ANYDAY!!!!


cant wait to finish up my YETI XLX !!!!

[ferp420]

I think they need a real spool the aluminum sucks I had a total of about 15 min on the spool and it didn't last more than 5 min before something broke on it every time it used the factory cross pin fron the gears to lock the spool in to place so that part was nice and tight I have my spawn set up as mostly a crawler and I've got a big jugbuster so I figure I'll set the yeti up as more a go fast basher I think the aluminum dif housing would hold up better for the open difs than the plastic just because of the spider gears pushing out on the housing I've had mixed results from jb welded diff's the clod is holding but my ta02 with a jb rear came apart several times even with the brand new gears safety wired together with stainless steal sinching wire and jbwelded and its a little guy with tiny tires I wouldn't think it would hold on the yeti but I never tried it did you fill the whole cup with jb weld or just stick the gears together

[BarHarborBasher]

Originally Posted by ferp420

I think they need a real spool the aluminum sucks I had a total of about 15 min on the spool and it didn't last more than 5 min before something broke on it every time it used the factory cross pin fron the gears to lock the spool in to place so that part was nice and tight I have my spawn set up as mostly a crawler and I've got a big jugbuster so I figure I'll set the yeti up as more a go fast basher I think the aluminum dif housing would hold up better for the open difs than the plastic just because of the spider gears pushing out on the housing I've had mixed results from jb welded diff's the clod is holding but my ta02 with a jb rear came apart several times even with the brand new gears safety wired together with stainless steal sinching wire and jbwelded and its a little guy with tiny tires I wouldn't think it would hold on the yeti but I never tried it did you fill the whole cup with jb weld or just stick the gears together

I don't wanna be one of those guys "no my shit never breaks ...learn how to drive '' but I'm sold on my jb setup... working in many different fields of the trades I've always believed in one thing....Proper Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance... I torched mine off to carbonize the oils then wire brush them. First trip around I do just the contact points and in the diff cup they go to set ovha night.. next I fill in everything and parge it smooth and balanced. let it set ovha night then but it in my parts toaster for 30 min @ 200 mmmm hard dry removable JB muffins...

BUT I FN CALLED IT ....THE ALUMINUM IS....


https://youtu.be/zLv8gnlw0n4

[reacttiondc2]

i thought about doing the jb weld locker,but since i keep breaking the axle cups i think ill try silly putty..

[jump_it]

Originally Posted by Deckard

Crawling is hard the drivetrain. I don't know if beefier axels or just a better spool is needed. I'm sure a 2200kv system even on 3s stresses the drivetrain much more crawling than go fast.

I have done very little crawling, but from what I have done I have to agree, the problem is getting your wheels in a pinned stuck situation then trying to force it out of the situation chances are something is going to break, then bullet proof that part and the problem moves on down to the next weak link such as what reacttiondc2 just posted.

For me if something looks like it will break trying to force the vehicle out of a situation, I am either going to back out or just pick the vehicle up and move on, it's just not worth the cost of attempting to clear an obstacle unless their is a big prize $$ waiting for me at the end, but then again I just go out and do solo stuff not into comp crawling and do not even know if their is a class for it with the yxl.

As far as 6s bashing, you kinda got to expect a breakage here an their but I see no reason to run locked diffs bashing on 6s, their needs to be some give in the diffs so I just run some good thick diff oil.

[BarHarborBasher]

Originally Posted by reacttiondc2

i thought about doing the jb weld locker,but since i keep breaking the axle cups i think ill try silly putty..

Bummer Man !!!
It looks like the only thing salvageable was the plastic diff cup ... Go figure !!!
My rear output snapped at the cross pin orifice...with good reason ...6s 2 wheel drive with buddies around...priceless reacton tho ...