BHB Mod - Did it - Did I do it right?

[pdxrealtor]

Spent some time making a jig tonight and ended up with something real simple. What I started with wasn't leaving the gear square. Anyways....

My question is this - how do I test the lash? How do I know if I have too much?

We are building two kits, and I don't want to cut the other pinion until I find out exactly how to fit it.

Here's some detailed pics. Hopefully, just like in the other most recent thread, these will help some others too! Huge thanks to the BHB for this mod and all the info provided!.



I'm hoping I didn't ruin this pinion.



This is assembled with the shaft pushed all the way in. Like this, I get the clicky, notchy feeling when rotating.



This is all the way out. Very smooth rotation, but I'm wondering if it's too far. This is what I need help with.

[mtr1514]

In BHB's thread, he has a picture of a measurement of the stock pinion and the BHB mod pinion. My numbers were pretty close to his within a few hundredths. That and the pinion should sit pretty flush on a bearing after you shave it. He also has that picture in his thread.

[pdxrealtor]

Thanks MTR1514. I'll go pound through that thread.

[BarHarborBasher]

Originally Posted by pdxrealtor

Thanks MTR1514. I'll go pound through that thread.

Thanks so much for the acknowledgement and I appreciate your support ! The modification itself looks like it was done right. Nice improvising. Your issue will be a simple fix. First off you have to make sure that your bearing pack is the exact same length as stock specifications including the plastic spacer.

All additional shims need to be added between the outer bearing face and the inside of the C clip. This will prevent the pinion from horizontal engagement. You'll notice after you add the Shins on the exterior of the bearing that the back-and-forth movement will be eliminated. But make sure your bearing pack isn't larger than the stock Dimensions or the bearings will be compressed and bearings won't spin efficiently.

In the extraordinary event of taking off too much of the haunch a shim can be added before the bearing to build it back down to the proper mess as well but I haven't seen the need for this yet.
If you have any issues let me know. You're going to freaking love this machine!

[pdxrealtor]

Originally Posted by BarHarborBasher

Thanks so much for the acknowledgement and I appreciate your support ! The modification itself looks like it was done right. Nice improvising. Your issue will be a simple fix. First off you have to make sure that your bearing pack is the exact same length as stock specifications including the plastic spacer.

All additional shims need to be added between the outer bearing face and the inside of the C clip. This will prevent the pinion from horizontal engagement. You'll notice after you add the Shins on the exterior of the bearing that the back-and-forth movement will be eliminated. But make sure your bearing pack isn't larger than the stock Dimensions or the bearings will be compressed and bearings won't spin efficiently.

In the extraordinary event of taking off too much of the haunch a shim can be added before the bearing to build it back down to the proper mess as well but I haven't seen the need for this yet.
If you have any issues let me know. You're going to freaking love this machine!

Oh man.... you're awesome! I think I completely understand.

Add shims between c-clip and bearing to get rid of back and forth movement. Roger that.

Doesn't look like I took off too much material. Roger that. That's a great!

I'm a little lost at why the bearing pack length would not be the same as OEM. Are you referring to different spacers and/or bearings being used? And, if the bearing pack is longer.... what's a guy to do?

6s baby..... we're going it right. Or... is that.... we're doing it super expensive? FML haha.

[pdxrealtor]

I just came out to take a look. All makes sense, but, if the bearing pack is taller or shorter than stock couldn't I just adjust by using less shims between the clip and the bearing?

I measured.... 0.085 between clip and bearing when pushed against pinion.

[Lavaheadache]

looks like you went a little far. you can shim it back out by putting shims on top of the bearing that the 3 retention screws hold in.

[pdxrealtor]

Originally Posted by Lavaheadache

looks like you went a little far. you can shim it back out by putting shims on top of the bearing that the 3 retention screws hold in.

What are you basing that suggestion off of? My pictures, or my measurement number?

If my measurement number, then wouldn't I do as BHB suggested and shim between the clip and the bearing? The Dhawk spacers come with 15mm of spacers. 0.085 equals ~ 2mm if my math is correct (ok... Googles math).

[BarHarborBasher]

No you got everything right. I was thinking that you used a 3rd bearing as well. O.E.M dimensions are what your looking for in the bearing pack.

* Basically the haunch material removed ends getting reapplied outside of the bearing pack in-between the C-clip. *

6s Rig for sure after a few simple mods.

[pdxrealtor]

Originally Posted by BarHarborBasher

No you got everything right. I was thinking that you used a 3rd bearing as well. O.E.M dimensions are what your looking for in the bearing pack.

* Basically the haunch material removed ends getting reapplied outside of the bearing pack in-between the C-clip. *

6s Rig for sure after a few simple mods.

I've read about the 3rd bearing mod. Is it worth it over the Dhawk metal spacers? In your opinion?

[BarHarborBasher]

110% it protects the gears in a event of the outer bearing failure and divides work load force.
This is a mod that's been passed down for benefits not to be confused with the HD alternative mod.

[BarHarborBasher]

Definitely need the driveshaft mod, pinion boot or deflector, Aluminum​ steering center/control link, limiting straps, HR hubs, good bearings and you'll have a killer machine

[pdxrealtor]

Sweet - we're getting ready to make a second order of aluminum parts. Already have the steering stuff.

Do we need the drive shaft mod if we have the aluminum hot racing shaft? Guess I should read up on that.

Hubs - on the list.

What bearings for the third bearing mod?

[mtr1514]

3rd bearing mod just requires another bearing of the same size, 15x21x4mm. And because the 4mm wide bearing is smaller than the spacer, your gonna need extra shims to make up the difference. Like BHB mentioned, in the end the entire bearing pack should equate to the OEM dimensions. And it would be a good time time to upgrade the bearings to something better than stock. I use Fast Eddy bearings myself. Other popular ones are BocaBearings or AvidRC.

[pdxrealtor]

Where's a good place to get the shims? We got fast eddy bearings on the way and plan on doing third bearing mod.

How many mm in shims is needed to get back to the oem bearing pack thickness? I already need 2mm to stop horizontal play after the BHB mod.

Does it help to spread out the shims between the three bearings or is it best to stack them all between the last bearing and the c-clip?

[BarHarborBasher]

[SvdV]

Can't make it much clearer

For what it's worth, my setup uses less shims and still runs perfectly.

[mtr1514]

My shims worked out to exactly like BHB's pic for the front bulkhead. The Vanquish rear axle setup with 3 mod bearing, I only needed two 0.2mm shims. As far as getting shims, it looks like most online store are back ordered on those Axial shims till May.

[BarHarborBasher]

Originally Posted by mtr1514

My shims worked out to exactly like BHB's pic for the front bulkhead. The Vanquish rear axle setup with 3 mod bearing, I only needed two 0.2mm shims. As far as getting shims, it looks like most online store are back ordered on those Axial shims till May.

Same here

[cmbscx10]

Originally Posted by pdxrealtor

Where's a good place to get the shims?

I am ready to throw mine back together and do the BHB mod but for the life of me can't find the shims. Not ebay, tower, amain etc. Must be slippin in my research capabilities.