Spunky's yeti XL

[Spunkybob]

Turns out I had a bunch of 8th scale pins and grub screws in a box of goodies I was given.. WINNING!!

Here is a video of my first run.. put 3 3s lipos through it and no issues so far.. damn it's fun to drive!

Also for some reason I had no shims, so I'm just running 3 bearings front and rear and there is no binding and it's very smooth. I suppose as per usual the pinion just moves to its sweet spot and just stays there. Fine on 3s.. any more and I sense fail.

Definately need the aluminium front bulkhead though..

https://youtu.be/nvi1ocJsNoc

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[Tzicul]

You can make a pin from a 3mm drill bit, you can find it in any DIY

[Spunkybob]

Modded my battery doors so I can fit my lipos.. all I did was drill out the flap and used body posts.

The long one is a guide then the rear one just slots in.

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[vici1984.05]

Have done same like you

Wysane z mojego Mi MIX 2 przy uyciu Tapatalka

[Spunkybob]

Originally Posted by vici1984.05

Have done same like you

Wysane z mojego Mi MIX 2 przy uyciu Tapatalka

Nice! 8 still need to.biy some 2s lipos to run 4s but at least I can run it on 3s for now.

Walked my daughter to preschool today and broke my rear drive shaft.. on 3s.. on flat ground.. and not the actual driveshaft but the metal joint that connects it to the transmission. Snapped right where the barrel goes in.. (have not pulled it out but it's that part in the pic)



Of course because it was on flat ground I didn't notice for a while and didn't know where it happened so now I need to get the new end piece AND drive shaft.

What's better.. SSD, GPM or Hot Racing for an upgrade?

I can't believe it broke steel on 3s on flat groundthough... Bummed.



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[vici1984.05]

Originally Posted by Spunkybob

Nice! 8 still need to.biy some 2s lipos to run 4s but at least I can run it on 3s for now.

Walked my daughter to preschool today and broke my rear drive shaft.. on 3s.. on flat ground.. and not the actual driveshaft but the metal joint that connects it to the transmission. Snapped right where the barrel goes in.. (have not pulled it out but it's that part in the pic)



Of course because it was on flat ground I didn't notice for a while and didn't know where it happened so now I need to get the new end piece AND drive shaft.

What's better.. SSD, GPM or Hot Racing for an upgrade?

I can't believe it broke steel on 3s on flat groundthough... Bummed.



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4s 50c 100c burst 5000 mAh in parallel will give You 50 min runtime ( rock crawling, trial, speed runs)

I use gpm rear drive shaft 50+ runs no issue so farr

Wysane z mojego Mi MIX 2 przy uyciu Tapatalka

[Spunkybob]

No one tell my wife but I put in an order today from GPM.

Front aluminium diff case
Steel rear drive shaft
Aluminium bellcrank posts
Aluminium bellcrank.

Should not break anymore parts after these.. rest seems strong enough. (That's what I said about it stock lol)

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[xwoop]

Originally Posted by Spunkybob

Should not break anymore parts after these.. rest seems strong enough.

Sorry to ruin the party but there is so much...I'll write a few that come into my mind first.

Shock caps....probably fail at some point
front a-arms, hing pin "holes" crack easily
Slipper gets harder to have it properly adjusted....and get stuck easily giving a hard time to all the drivetrain parts
Stock wheel foams are terrible. So soft the wheel hits the ground every now and then and the wheels crack. and they "fold" under causing a lot of unnecessary rollovers
The little "balls" in joints. The plastic ones just wear out rather quickly.

But its good, and eventually it will be durable as well.

[Spunkybob]

Originally Posted by xwoop

Sorry to ruin the party but there is so much...I'll write a few that come into my mind first.

Shock caps....probably fail at some point
front a-arms, hing pin "holes" crack easily
Slipper gets harder to have it properly adjusted....and get stuck easily giving a hard time to all the drivetrain parts
Stock wheel foams are terrible. So soft the wheel hits the ground every now and then and the wheels crack. and they "fold" under causing a lot of unnecessary rollovers
The little "balls" in joints. The plastic ones just wear out rather quickly.

But its good, and eventually it will be durable as well.

Yeah but most of those are wear and tear not outright failure.

I don't jump it so my shock caps should be fine.

And when the arms break I'll just get RPMs

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[Spunkybob]

Painted my body panels last night.
I'm a gunmetal kind of guy :-)
will do the interior one day



This is the bit that broke.



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[Tzicul]

I never broke a shock cap, the only A-arm I broke was an RPM and you're right about the slipper clutch and foams. And I changed most of those plastic balls with bearings

Originally Posted by xwoop

Sorry to ruin the party but there is so much...I'll write a few that come into my mind first.

Shock caps....probably fail at some point
front a-arms, hing pin "holes" crack easily
Slipper gets harder to have it properly adjusted....and get stuck easily giving a hard time to all the drivetrain parts
Stock wheel foams are terrible. So soft the wheel hits the ground every now and then and the wheels crack. and they "fold" under causing a lot of unnecessary rollovers
The little "balls" in joints. The plastic ones just wear out rather quickly.

But its good, and eventually it will be durable as well.

[Spunkybob]

Parts arrived on my desk at work today.. love coming into the office and seeing funsies waiting for me :-)

I don't really mind because it's hidden.. but the steering parts are not the same colour as the bulkhead even thought they were brought as the same colour.

I just hope when I get more parts later on that they match the diff case.



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[Spunkybob]

Damn... I'm going to have to mod my pinion after all.
The tolerances of the GPM bulkhead are too good and when the gears are installed and pushed forward it doesn't even turn.

No idea how I'm going to do it, I don't have access to a machine shop but I do have a Dremel.

On a side note, how do I remove that C clip???

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[Tzicul]

Just install three bearings and the right amount of shims!
I remove the c clip wit a thin screwdriver

Originally Posted by Spunkybob

Damn... I'm going to have to mod my pinion after all.
The tolerances of the GPM bulkhead are too good and when the gears are installed and pushed forward it doesn't even turn.

No idea how I'm going to do it, I don't have access to a machine shop but I do have a Dremel.

On a side note, how do I remove that C clip???

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[Spunkybob]

Installed my GPM front housing, bellcrank and rear driveshaft and the T-Bone racing roof and the hot racing diff locker in the rear.

Also did the 3 bearing mod with shims front and back.

Installed .6mm of shims (3 axial ones @ .2mm each) and it's butter smooth.

Of course if you push them forward hard it's not by so I hope the forces or physics donas they should and push them apart for that perfect mesh.

Can't wait to take it for a bash in the park next door tomorrow morning before work.

[Spunkybob]

Went for a morning bash. Not raining but it rained yesterday so the ground was a little damp (I don't run my trucks in water)

So much fun!! I love the ability to go anywhere when the moment pleases :-)

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[Spunkybob]

Went for another morning bash today

https://youtu.be/_jeHhGHRg-kln


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[Spunkybob]

Finally painted and detailed my interior.
Just need to rig up my "head turning servo" and run some wires to the heads and it will be done!

Also have some LEDs to fit behind the dash so the GPS, Speedo and gauges light up...

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[BarHarborBasher]

I used a mini servo with a splitter inside of the receiver box with a jst plug between the tub and chassis for easy removal. https://instagram.com/p/BPntmsqgUM7/

[Spunkybob]

Originally Posted by BarHarborBasher

I used a mini servo with a splitter inside of the receiver box with a jst plug between the tub and chassis for easy removal. https://instagram.com/p/BPntmsqgUM7/

The skull heads touch the roof panel so i wont be able to make them turn!!
I have a T-Bone racing roof so maybe the stock roof is raised slightly?