Binary Yeti

[binaryterror]

Just picked it up last week, spent some time this weekend getting some minor changes done. Haven't run it yet, but tomorrow should be a good test.

Mods done:
Front Steering and Camber links replaced (Traxxas 3643 work for both)
Sway Bar Titanium tunbuckles (65mm and included rod ends from Axial) - filed 1" slot to 50% of material to make softer
Savox SB-2270SG Servo
Axial Aluminum Servo Horn
Castle BEC set at 7.4v
Holmes Hobby BEC Bypass for Servo
4PK mini receiver
SLW V1 wheels (350 front and 600 rear VP hubs with 1/16" brake disk spacers)
Axial Hexes
Supershafty.com BOMBPROOF Locker (Rear)
Supershafty.com Exclusive 3.4" MIP set up for MIP rear driveshaft
Dlux 5x13 bearing AR-60 housing
Dlux Rear Axle Truss for upper link adjustment
140mm Vanquish Upper Rear Links (for the Dlux truss only)
Rebuilt Shocks (30wt front and 20wt rear, Losi oils)
HR Racing 38/14 Overdrive gears
RPM Front Arms (modified to fit standard outer Hinge pins) I hate screw in weak hinge pins
Blue Monkey RC Rear lower Trailing Arms
Locked Servo saver (2 bearings, and 5 .2mm shims)
Supershafty.com Fire Stick
VP Posts and Rack
Axial F1 Toe/Caster Block
Tungsten Carbide Hinge Pins
Voodoo U4 Silvers on Crawler Innovations 6 Bolts with DW Foams
Axial Chassis lower link mounts
64T Steel Spur
Axial Front Shock Tower
Axial Rear Shock Mounts
Axial Machined Slipper Plates

Eventual Mods:
Blue Monkey RC 5x13 bearing front diff housing (Have, just haven't installed, will do with front diff work)
Axial Motor Mount
Rowdy Racing Dude Rang (it's here and I was right there, skipped it...again with the front tear down!)

Just some pics:









Well that won't fit on the stock ring gear...Just until the HD's show up


Bye bye pins, love dremel.

[binaryterror]

So, everyone wants MIP rear driveshafts...

Found them:
Fully compressed:


Full Droop out (still half the male spline is engaged):


Thats a normal MIP for Axial female and a SuperShafty.com Exclusive MIP length Male, of course with the rest of the MIP parts. Pictures are using 1 long and 1 short pinion/trans mount. Would recommend 1 short and 1 long, or 2 longs.

Available Here: "Exclusive" MIP X-Duty CVD™ Bone - Super Shafty

Keep an eye out, Rick (V84x4) may be making premade kits for the Yeti, where you'll get all you need to slap them in. Feel free to PM or email him with questions (sales@supershafty.com)

Ignore the beat MIP Parts, came off my Wraith which was at ECSC to test this set up for Rick. Also, yes terrible camera phone pics and lighting.

[Farmer]

Nice work man, can wait to drive it and steal your set up
Later,
Farmer

[binaryterror]

Some more parts came in and things to adjust.

Swaybar filed down to make softer, will be tuning more I'm sure:


BlueMonkey RC Rear Trailing Arms:


Axial TiNi king pins, RPM Arms (modified to fit outer hinge pins, not the screw in style that RTR companies love to push), Axial Universals, also locked the servo saver:


Now looking to get rid of these stock Inner Front Arm pins, again screw in hinge pins (RTR anyhow) are super weak. Either finding similar from Lunsford or just an e-clip style front pin instead.


Also updated the first post.

[binaryterror]

More crappy pics

Tungsten Carbide 3mm Drill Blanks - cut and flat spotted (quite a process to do) with 3mm collar stops. I imagine the entire chassis and arms will explode before I can reach the Yield Strength of the Tungsten Carbide. Fully captured now, the back uses the chassis while the front is handled by the collar. Also the pins are super hard so their finish is extremely smooth - they pivot very nicely without being loose like the stock screws.

Testing idea:

All Done:

[binaryterror]

Ok kinda figured out why the pics where washing out...still some bad ones

Not required, but super snazzy:


More Beef for the big jumps...:


Front Tower:


Bad pic of Servo Saver:


So much nice...too bad no motor mount yet. Normally I don't find myself needing a Steel spur gear, but plastic are hard to get and to be honest - mine was poorly molded. It's high and low spots were too far to make a good mesh without sacrificing too tight or too loose on on the the high/lows I found. Easier to get steel than plastic - so it wins for now:

[Maddog Madigan]

Looks great! How did everything fit? Glad you posted up these new parts.

[binaryterror]

Everything fit well, the rear lower link mount there is a spacer you use - it seems like you'd put it in the open side of the 4 link option, but really it fits into a molded counterbored hole in the chassis to space it off the chassis that the provided longer screw goes through to hit the bracket. That was pretty easy to figure out.

The Front shock Tower I think is correct, I'm going to check with Brandon - 2 small spacers seem to be in the right spot (rear of tower to the body mount base) so I think its right since things all fit, but I'm checking. Tight around the part that fits around the diff case, but slowly screwing it in was the ticket to walk it back into position.

Servo Horn was extremely tight, far too tight for a pinch style IMO, but works.

Spur and Machined Slipper plates were easy as pie. Easier than the stock ones.

Rear Shock beef plates - super easy and fit perfectly.

[mjderstine]

this will work.

nice job man. this one is gonna be bomb proof for sure.

[gmc2313]

really love the upgraded hinge pin idea since there are none available anywhere ill have to go on the hunt for some tungsten rod so i can get my yeti back in action. awesome looking rig also!

[DeviledEggs]

Wow this build is eerily similar to mine. The sway bar mod, the hinge pins, Dlux stuff. Weird.

For outer hinge pins I used Lunsford ti pins for the Slash. Had to drill out the arms and carriers. But the VP carriers dont have a grub screw to retain the pin (wtf?) so I had to cut down the arms enough to use e clips on the ends. But Im curious about your carbide rod idea for the inners. How are they retained at the chassis?

[binaryterror]

They slide into the chassis, much like the stock ones without thread so its a tighter fit.

What keeps them sliding out is the collar on in the arms. Just a normal 1/8" collar with a set screw. Flat spotted the rod there to make it stay and it has done that.