Swaybars

[binaryterror]

I might be alone in this, but the rear sway is far too stiff for racing and crawling.

I see there is a kit including all 3 for $28 (outrageous for 3 wires bent into a U shape)....but does the stock kit include the medium or?

I've made sways before, just want to see where the stock stands compared to the option kit.

[Szczerba]

Sorta related to your question, kinda. How's about notching the stock sway bar to make it flex a little easier?

[Hunter711]

Sway bar good for bashing and flat trackin'. Rock racing, U4 course, crawlin', NOPE. Disconnect and zip tie up or use this: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/new-p...nnect-kit.html
That's it's purpose. IMFO

[binaryterror]

Disconnected isn't my goal, then its pretty poor at racing, good for crawling. And would require a lot of work to get the shocks set up for proper crawling limits.

I just want a thinner bar. I've tried removed, didn't like at all.

Shane, I haven't thought about that, usually we would just make new ones, but that does make for another option I can try.

[Szczerba]

Originally Posted by Hunter711

Sway bar good for bashing and flat trackin'. Rock racing, U4 course, crawlin', NOPE. Disconnect and zip tie up or use this: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/new-p...nnect-kit.html
That's it's purpose. IMFO

You can easily run a rear sway bar for rock racking, U4 and crawling. You would be surprised how well a rear sway bar tones down rig flex and makes it more consistent. True, they can hurt a rig's performance if not setup correctly.

Bashing and flat tracking, front and rear sway bars would be best, IMO.

[Szczerba]

Originally Posted by binaryterror

Shane, I haven't thought about that, usually we would just make new ones, but that does make for another option I can try.

I was just visualizing all the sway bars I have looked at in the last few years. Most kits come with 2-4 extra bars and they all have varing lengths of material removed from them. That is what made me think of it.

[binaryterror]

Originally Posted by Szczerba

I was just visualizing all the sway bars I have looked at in the last few years. Most kits come with 2-4 extra bars and they all have varing lengths of material removed from them. That is what made me think of it.

I'm used to RC Racing and offroad, they usually make thickness the key factor. But on your mention I remembered my Wraith ones and of course some on-road racing ones that did the same method of removing material to make that the torsional rigidity that was needed.

[Grizzly4x4]

I just got done taking a file to the "firm" bar in the Wraith set and it now allows almooost full articulation on my SCX10 Dutch.

[Grizzly4x4]

Originally Posted by binaryterror

I'm used to RC Racing and offroad, they usually make thickness the key factor. But on your mention I remembered my Wraith ones and of course some on-road racing ones that did the same method of removing material to make that the torsional rigidity that was needed.

I was remembering that our FSAE car in college used an adjustable swaybar that would change the length of the flat area.

[TSK]

You could try moving the sway bar end links out from the centerline (i.e mount the lowe outside the axle link mounts), which would increase the axles leverage on the sway bar. going too far would put the end links at an ineffective angle though and cause the sway bar to deflect in and out,

[binaryterror]

Took some time to file the sway. Just under 50% remove for the width of the file (just over 1"). Doesn't seem much softer, can add more or widen the slot to tune. Cheaper than a $30 set from Axial without knowing what one comes in the kit and how they compare to the option set.

[elbo]

Seems like it would fatigue and eventually break in the area you filed it. I dont have any other better suggestions at this time though.

Did you try the longer ends for the swaybar that are included? Im guessing the difference is minimal.

[binaryterror]

Originally Posted by elbo

Seems like it would fatigue and eventually break in the area you filed it. I dont have any other better suggestions at this time though. Did you try the longer ends for the swaybar that are included? Im guessing the difference is minimal.

This is how Axial and other companies have done sway bar stiffness changes for years. I'm not at all concerned about breakage. Not to mention using a file the pieces didn't get hot enough to remove the spring treatment (I wonder if they are spring steel being threaded).

My Axial and HR set on the wraith haven't broken, they came like this.

As for the longer ones, no change. The bar stiffness included you'd need no less than an inch longer to make a substantial change, which would put it behind the axle.

[Cork]

Did you file it in the right orientation? That will make a difference. And by looking at your pic, it looks like it might not be in the optimum orientation. I think it would work best if the filed surface would be in the horizontal. When it's in the vertical it still has to flex the full dia. in my opinion.