Top 10 Low Budget Fixes

[Duuuuuuuude]

Cleaning this thread up. This thread is for Yeti specific "fixes", not general customizations.

[erich_hagen]

Quick fix for weak servo saver. Add one copper washer that is the same outer diameter as the spring. Huge difference on mine! Can take more pics when I install my new vanquish posts this weekend

[SoCal Crawlr]

Need to swap out your servo horn? maybe adjust it? here's my fix


A fix for the stripped wheel hubs is to really crank down your wheel nuts... Mine has done very well like this

As far as the beads coming out of the stock wheels, a little ca glue goes a long way. The truck is unrunable if the bead will not hold, this will save the $100+ otherwise spent on new wheels and tires

[Jethrobodean]

Originally Posted by BC Racing

Have an old scx stock link laying around....do yourself a favor and make this. Snaps/holds in place with body up or down, makes life under the hood (battery changes/what nots) oh so much better.

OK, I'm dense evidently. I get the concept, but can't see how this works. Got a pic of it in the "propped" position? (A major annoyance of mine so far)

[Turtlejon]

Originally Posted by SoCal Crawlr

Need to swap out your servo horn? maybe adjust it? here's my fix


A fix for the stripped wheel hubs is to really crank down your wheel nuts... Mine has done very well like this

As far as the beads coming out of the stock wheels, a little ca glue goes a long way. The truck is unrunable if the bead will not hold, this will save the $100+ otherwise spent on new wheels and tires

Cool! This will not weaken the chassis at all? Or enough to matter?

[TT17]

Originally Posted by Turtlejon

Cool! This will not weaken the chassis at all? Or enough to matter?

It shouldn't do anything thats gonna effect it very much, if at all

[SoCal Crawlr]

Try to find the smallest Phillips head screwdriver (or hex driver) that you can before drilling the hole. As you can see in my picture I use a very small one and the hole is so small it should make no structural difference. Smaller the better though! In my case I had to swap out my servo horn and it saved me from having to completely remove my esc mount and then lifting the servo out of the chassis.

The rods ends on the servo saver to steering rack have also been changed with some traxxas ones that were just a hair longer as well as the revo pivot balls. seems stronger!

[ROWDY RACING]

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/chass...-lockouts.html

[dextan22]

after a few packs, my driveshaft is now like this...



so i got 2 stainless bolts that fits each side...



a new male part for the driveshaft...



and screwed both sides in until they meet.



turns out the inner part of the male part collapses because it's hollow so i hope this should prevent any problems for me for awhile.

and be sure to locktight the joint screws too while you're at it.

[BC Racing]

Originally Posted by Jethrobodean

OK, I'm dense evidently. I get the concept, but can't see how this works. Got a pic of it in the "propped" position? (A major annoyance of mine so far)

...

[Jethrobodean]

Yup, just dense. Wasn't moving it up top in my head. Thank you sir

[aki@1962]

Solution　Narrow　ｄriver
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/--...no/doriver.jpg

[BCK]

Originally Posted by Rockatanski

Locktight all 4 screws on wheels to avoid loosening them and then destroying the hub with the pin.
Locktight all shafts pinscrews, I destroyed my rear shaft when it got loose.

Locktight is a Yeti´s friend

Ive found with my alloy Gearhead and Vanquish hubs that you need to loctite the wheel nuts or they back out real quick, no matter how tight they are.

the stock plastic hubs hold on fine. Very annoying!