Pham's nissandriver24 Fully Loaded - Vanquish Products Axial Yeti Rock Racer

[nissan_driver24]

I have been meaning to do a build thread (in this case it would be a mod thread because it was a RTR) on my new Axial Yeti. Since there has been so many things happening lately I haven't had time to sit down and do a thread. So hopefully this will help some people out with their build. I spent three days in a row after work from 9pm to 2am working on this Yeti to get it ready for the first NOR-CAL U4RC Rock Racing at Auburn Performance Raceway.

Like most threads they gotta start with the car slowly coming out of the box.






Awesome looking rig, very well thought of. But this pile of parts I have had sitting around needed to be used.






Last time this rig will be stock. I didn't even drive the car stock because I wanted to work on it so much. Bye Bye stock electronics.





The rx box being built in with the chassis is a very neat concept even the way the wires are sealed is an awesome detail.



Now all of the following pics were taken 30 mins after I opened the box. It is a very easy chassis to work on. All of the stock electronics never even got turned on and I was thinking of putting them in my Tamiya Lunchbox named "Free Candy"





Like the old Exo Terra buggy Axial also thought about how the wires should be routed which work great.




So the new parts begin:

VP Steering Post with bearings to replace the plastic post with plastic bushing.



Front end being pulled apart to be replaced with new parts.



As I was pulling the diff out to replace with hardened gears I noticed that there are shims next to the bearings. That's to help with diff lash which would keep the diff gears from having a bad mesh.



New Diff gears, went with Axial Hardened Under Drive Gears. Also added 500k front diff oil while everything was taken apart.






New RPM Exo Terra arms were used. They are a bit more beefy looking.



Paired the lower RPM arms with VP Red Steering Knuckles and VP Hexes. You know I gotta have my red



When installing make sure you use the correct drive pins the original ones that came with the Yeti will not work because they are too long.



All done with the front end... I think..



As I was putting everything back together I threw some MIPs from a SCX-10 in the front, there is slight rubbing but it wore out quickly after reving up the beast of a motor I'm using.



New servo in town and it's pushing 435oz @ 0.10 Sec. Ko Propo RSX Power servo with an all aluminum body. It's the most quiet hi torque servo I have ever used.



Robotronic Servo Horn used for durability.



More electronics going in.



Starting on the lights, VP super bights lights were easily installed on the front bumper.




I used a micro Deans connector to make the front lights with bumper easily disconnect.



The beauty of a build thread with in a couple pics the wiring is done... Even though I spent 4 hours making it look pretty.



VP Method Wheels were used to give this Rig the durability and Looks of VP. I used 225 hubs in the front with 725 in the rear. I also added Red OMF ring with some VP scale brake rotors.

[nissan_driver24]

Next to wire up the light bars. I used 2 VP Rigid Light bars, One 4 inch and One 3 inch.



Front one is tucked under the roof for protection. Stock holes were used to install it so no drilling was need to be done.




In the rear I also wanted the lights to be protected so I gouged out the stock light holes and stuffed a VP Light bar in it's place. Later I will wrap the lights to change the colors.

[binaryterror]

Originally Posted by nissan_driver24

Robotronic Servo Horn used for durability.

You'd be better in the bottom hole. You want that link to be perfectly horizontal to the chassis not going down, or you'll be wasting some of the force being applied.

[nissan_driver24]

Originally Posted by binaryterror

You'd be better in the bottom hole. You want that link to be perfectly horizontal to the chassis not going down, or you'll be wasting some of the force being applied.

Yeah it's on the bottom hole, Yeti is done just posting pics as I have time. Thanks.

[nissan_driver24]

Lights On Pics

[nissan_driver24]

Then it's on to the rear axles. Going all VP in the rear with Ti Upper rear link, VP trailing arms, complete VP rear axle, with all of the goodies. I also made some MIP's work in the rear because I know I would just pretzel the rear stock plastic axles.









All of the electronics wired up and ready to go. I used a servo extension to make it easy to remove the AMB lap transponder if needed. Tekin RX8 Gen 2 ESC, Tekin Pro4HD 4300kv, Castle Creation BEC, Airtronics RX-471, all together with a 3s 80c 5700mah battery.





Package from the guys at CKRC for hooking it up with the VooDoo U4 tires in gold with some Panthers foam. Jason is an awesome owner and he showed me some love. I really appreciate it.





One of the last thing I installed in this bad boy.... VP new steering rack. I got this last Friday before the race and it fit perfectly. Get them while you can!

[nissan_driver24]

Last Saturday at the first Nor-Cal U4RC race. I took 3rd in the 2.2 Open class. Not bad for driving the Yeti the first time that day. I also took 1st in the Honcho for the 1.9 Trail class. I love this new Yeti.

[Black n Blue]

Nice! Can you show more pics of the wiring on the 2 front VP light?

[gbean]

Have any idea when the rear trailing links will be available?

[nissan_driver24]

Originally Posted by Black n Blue

Nice! Can you show more pics of the wiring on the 2 front VP light?

The front VP lights are just wired to the the little box next to the transmission. From their it goes to the RX8 Battery post for power. I don't have any detailed pictures of how it was done.

Originally Posted by gbean

Have any idea when the rear trailing links will be available?

Should be very very soon.

[difflock120]

This build is just wow!!! what is the long mip part you used for the rear driveshat?

[.com]

Originally Posted by difflock120

This build is just wow!!! what is the long mip part you used for the rear driveshat?

X2 would love some info on the driveshaft!

[nissan_driver24]

Originally Posted by difflock120

This build is just wow!!! what is the long mip part you used for the rear driveshat?

Originally Posted by .com

X2 would love some info on the driveshaft!

Thanks, the long part MIP is from a Traxxas Summit part. I don't know the part number off hand.

[difflock120]

Originally Posted by nissan_driver24

Thanks, the long part MIP is from a Traxxas Summit part. I don't know the part number off hand.

Thanks... Will just search for the mip part number. Definitely checking this thread from time to time. Keep us posted

[difflock120]

Found the part no... Mip #9168. Is it like a bolt on thing for the mip or you have to modify something?

[nissan_driver24]

MIP Spline CVD™ Bone, Traxxas Summit (1) #09169

[binaryterror]

You can use the MIP Exclusive one SuperShaft sells. It's just a special 3.4" male side, but works with Axial standard female side and output ends.

Part (email sales@supershafty.com and he will make you a kit for just the parts you need): "Exclusive" MIP X-Duty CVD™ Bone - Super Shafty

Picture of it working on mine:

[nissan_driver24]

binaryterror I didn't go with the same setup you have because with wraith ends the shaft set screws are 3mm which uses a 1.5mm tool to install. I went with a scx10 MIP set and MIP Spline CVD™ Bone, Traxxas Summit (1) #09169 because it allows me to retain the stock 4mm shaft set screws which uses a 2mm tool to install (easier to install and less likely to break) As for the supershafty setup I can find the different lengths which I did to make my own and not have to buy it from them. Working at a hobby store it's easy to spot what works with what.

This is how mine came out. The splined area is all covered up so there's no chance of it falling out. Which I think would work better.

[binaryterror]

Originally Posted by nissan_driver24

binaryterror I didn't go with the same setup you have because with wraith ends the shaft set screws are 3mm which uses a 1.5mm tool to install. I went with a scx10 MIP set and MIP Spline CVD™ Bone, Traxxas Summit (1) #09169 because it allows me to retain the stock 4mm shaft set screws which uses a 2mm tool to install (easier to install and less likely to break)

I'll disagree, the large grub on the end of the small pin diameter is a weak point and more apt to break than the MIP narrow ones. Changes in diameter cause weak points. Wraith on 3S Pro4 4000kv, never had a single little baby pin MIP failure or strip out, or even come loose.

Yes a 1.5mm tool is smaller and could strip easier. But this is RC, not Semi Truck work, you don't need 200ft/lbs of torque when you use good loc-tite and a proper driver (doesn't mean expensive).

This is how mine came out. The splined area is all covered up so there's no chance of it falling out. Which I think would work better.

There is no chance of mine falling out, 50% coverage at its worst as shown on the yeti through all the suspension travel, including no shocks mounted. I run a Wraith with a 4000KV Pro4 and run even less engagement and have never had an issue. If I had 2 of the long output pieces, it'd be even better, but the used parts bin I have was limited to a short and a long.

It sure is nice working at a hobby shop. Getting to test things is easier, especially since many shops are "tell me the part you want" now, instead of having the packages out so I can walk and do measurements. Makes the RC Crawling side harder to solve these solutions that exist, but aren't specific. I'm sure you'll be able to give us lots of cool tricks having the ability to investigate.

Sorry to interuppt your build thread, still a great build thread going here.

[frdtrkguy]

Originally Posted by binaryterror

I'll disagree, the large grub on the end of the small pin diameter is a weak point and more apt to break than the MIP narrow ones. Changes in diameter cause weak points. Wraith on 3S Pro4 4000kv, never had a single little baby pin MIP failure or strip out, or even come loose.

My experience as well. I've broken a bunch of the 4mm screw pins but never the smaller ones. The heads twist off when its time to take it apart.

Mike, your yeti looks awesome!