Just finished my shock mod

[zuki250]

So I saw Matt from Ottsix racing do this, so i had to try it. I used 3/16 carbon fiber with some modded 1/8 scale stand offs...the shocks feel great. Did a weekend thrash also rebuilt the whole front end with VP parts, slash links new servo, motor, esc etc...can't wait to get it to the track tomorrow. I am going to pretty up the brackets eventually...

[crawl-o-matic]

Came out nice! You're gonna love it!

[Coonburger]

What is the problem that this resolves? I just got a yeti last week and just curious.

[crawl-o-matic]

This mod allows you to use 100mm shocks because they can be tuned with a high degree of precision as compared to the stock 130mm +/- shocks. If you've ever raced a sct, think of how bad it would be trying to tune your race rig with 130mm rear shocks...never gonna happen. You also don't need limiting straps with 100mm shocks. Same thing up front with 90mm shocks, no straps needed.

[crawl-o-matic]

With this mod, my Yeti went from a 'B+' performer to an 'A+'...my next goal is to get it to the A+++ level by switching out springs and oil.

I raced sc trucks for a long time and the two things that win races are: acceleration out of corners and properly set up suspensions...and it's no different with the Yeti or any other U4 style rig.

[binaryterror]

Originally Posted by crawl-o-matic

You also don't need limiting straps with 100mm shocks. Same thing up front with 90mm shocks, no straps needed.

Don't ever need straps, internal limiting stroke length works.

I'm lost as to why so many people think the Limiting straps are really useful in RC. I put them on for looks, not to limit the shocks, The shocks limit themselves just fine and are more adjustable.

[Crank]

Originally Posted by binaryterror

Don't ever need straps, internal limiting stroke length works.

I'm lost as to why so many people think the Limiting straps are really useful in RC. I put them on for looks, not to limit the shocks, The shocks limit themselves just fine and are more adjustable.

On the IFS Honcho I had , there was no way the dogbones would stay in the drive cups, with out them.
Sure I could have internally limited the shocks, but a couple of limiting straps up front made it usable until a shorter shock set up could be determined.
So sometimes they are useful.

[zuki250]

Yea this has nothing to do with limit straps....all about making it handle as well as possible...took it out today and it was friggin planted...so much better over jumps and was hauling out of corners

[crawl-o-matic]

Yup, eliminating the need for straps is but a side show to what this mod is really meant to do

[crawl-o-matic]

Originally Posted by zuki250

Yea this has nothing to do with limit straps....all about making it handle as well as possible...took it out today and it was friggin planted...so much better over jumps and was hauling out of corners

YEEEES SIR

[mtdriver]

How is tuning 130 mm shocks with springs, pistons, oil and preload different than tuning 100 mm shocks with springs, pistons, oil and preload?

[crawl-o-matic]

Originally Posted by mtdriver

How is tuning 130 mm shocks with springs, pistons, oil and preload different than tuning 100 mm shocks with springs, pistons, oil and preload?

it's the most basic of engineering priciples: if it's not right, it's wrong. The stock shocks are too long, and no matter how you tune them, you can never make them right.

[binaryterror]

I can't say I agree at all. I've tuned short and long shocks it's all in the work. The biggest issue no matter length right now is the lack of rear weight, makes tuning tough, not to mention the stock sway is far too stiff for handling.

You could tune out the stroke internally or externally and have a 100mm shock, still the same 130mm shock.

People used to think "big bore" large shocks didn't work, now you won't find a serious RC race vehicle without them.

[CrawlinMike]

I like the stockers so far. No dang leaks thank god. So what's the "big bore" actually mean. I have a set of traxxas big bore and they're practically the same size as stock..... If not exactly. I understand bore and what it is. But what 1/2 a mm and alum justifies the cost? I have to be missing something.

[crawl-o-matic]

This mod kills it, and the proof is in the pudding

[crawl-o-matic]

Originally Posted by binaryterror

I can't say I agree at all. I've tuned short and long shocks it's all in the work. The biggest issue no matter length right now is the lack of rear weight, makes tuning tough, not to mention the stock sway is far too stiff for handling.

You could tune out the stroke internally or externally and have a 100mm shock, still the same 130mm shock.

People used to think "big bore" large shocks didn't work, now you won't find a serious RC race vehicle without them.

with this mod, the back end feels right, not light, and the stock sway can be easily adjusted (out of the box, it's setup for fairly high speeds)

[mtdriver]

Originally Posted by crawl-o-matic

it's the most basic of engineering priciples: if it's not right, it's wrong. The stock shocks are too long, and no matter how you tune them, you can never make them right.

So should I take 100 mm shocks (which are right from an engineering standpoint) and put them on my touring car because the stockers are too short (which is wrong from an engineering standpoint)?

Still don't get it.

[crawl-o-matic]

look at it this way:

These 5 numbers represent the correct length shock:
1, 2, 3, 4, 5
Now, to tune this shock correctly, you need to figure out which 3 numbers to use...so even if you have no idea how to tune a suspension, you're still going to be in the ball park...and if you know what you're doing, you're golden.

OK, these 20 numbers represent a shock that's too long:
1,2,3.....20
You still only have to pick 3 numbers...but which 3...not even the best of us is going to get it right.

I hope this helps

[the_ocho]

Originally Posted by crawl-o-matic

look at it this way:

These 5 numbers represent the correct length shock:
1, 2, 3, 4, 5
Now, to tune this shock correctly, you need to figure out which 3 numbers to use...so even if you have no idea how to tune a suspension, you're still going to be in the ball park...and if you know what you're doing, you're golden.

OK, these 20 numbers represent a shock that's too long:
1,2,3.....20
You still only have to pick 3 numbers...but which 3...not even the best of us is going to get it right.

I hope this helps

So basically rather than spend the time figuring out how to tune the longer shocks you just ditch them for something you already know and are comfortable tuning.


I'm not saying what you are doing doesn't work, obviously it does. And I'm not saying its not the smart/easy way to go. I just think its a short cut

Rather than work on the engine that my car came with ill just swap in a small block chevy because they are simple, work, and i know them

[binaryterror]

Originally Posted by CrawlinMike

So what's the "big bore" actually mean. I have a set of traxxas big bore and they're practically the same size as stock..... If not exactly. I understand bore and what it is. But what 1/2 a mm and alum justifies the cost? I have to be missing something.

Big bore's used to be big, a long time back. Now race oriented RC's run shocks nearly twice as big (diameter) as big bores. More oil to keep the oil cooler, more consistent during wear. With the bigger body you can make more unique piston hole sets to also adjust damping to a degree.

Originally Posted by crawl-o-matic

with this mod, the back end feels right, not light, and the stock sway can be easily adjusted (out of the box, it's setup for fairly high speeds)

The back end of mine isn't jumpy, I've tuned out all that with the stock shocks, I was referring to the lack of actual weight - which makes tuning different, just another approach.

Originally Posted by crawl-o-matic

These 5 numbers represent the correct length shock:
1, 2, 3, 4, 5

OK, these 20 numbers represent a shock that's too long:
1,2,3.....20

Except, its 1-5 (100mm) and 1-6 (120mm), not 1-20 (400mm ). Over exaggeration doesn't explain things, it just muddies the water.

Originally Posted by the_ocho

So basically rather than spend the time figuring out how to tune the longer shocks you just ditch them for something you already know and are comfortable tuning.

People did it when we raced Ntro Monster trucks. We'd have guys running their Savages with TMAXX Big Bores - shorter by about 1.5"-2". Then we'd set up our Savages on stock shocks, and win. Yes it was a different method to tune them, but they still worked as good when done right.