not quite a Yeti. so a Sasquatch

[mjderstine]

hey guys, some of your have seen this in the first iteration as a 1/10 ST with a solid rear axle.

since that wasn't the most fun basher i figured i'd slap a Yeti body on the thing. also put some panels on just for the time being.

it started off as Kyosho 7.5 buggy, then i build the TVP's and attached a double short sided Twin force axle on the rear.

its got a MMM 2650 on 4s. and went like a bat outta hell with ST tires. i havent had a chance to test out how these Roc Lox go, but should be fun.

i need to do some changing around of some things on the inside to try and get the interior back in the thing. the TVP's sit up a little too high but here she be.

here are some pics.

[ROWDY RACING]

Very interesting creation you have there MJ, nice work.

[DTB1]

Very cool indeed. What's the length and width of your rig? "Looks" slightly shorter than a yeti but close to as wide. It would be cool to compare them out on the trail sometime!

[mjderstine]

its about 14" WB and it is 10.5 hex to hex

[ROWDY RACING]

Originally Posted by mjderstine

its about 14" WB and it is 10.5 hex to hex

Be interested to hear how the high speed cornering is at that track width, mine is 12.75" up front (outside of tar to outside of tar).

[dasco]

Looks custom mj..nice work bro

[mjderstine]

Originally Posted by ROWDY RACING

Be interested to hear how the high speed cornering is at that track width, mine is 12.75" up front (outside of tar to outside of tar).

this is 12.75 outside to outside. its got pretty much the exact same dimensions. but beefier all around than the yeti. huge 1/8 buggy steering servo saver, 8x16 bearings all around. universals, all 1/8 buggy ring and pinions. i have had the thing for years and its a tank. in SC form i tumbled it up to 8' in the air and it just keeps going.

the only drawback is that is is a bit heavy when you compare it to a yeti. the batteries also probably need to be put down lower. but i have a 1/8" sway bar in the end and that works awesome. the bottom end just sits down on corners.

Originally Posted by dasco

Looks custom mj..nice work bro

that's cuz it is... thanks man.


here are some outdoor crooked pictures

[mjderstine]

heres a little update. i switched the ring and pinion to a 10t 43t instead of the stodk 13t 43t. gets me a little more low end. really i need to get a lower KV motor too.

i also put a spool in the rear, and filled the front diff with some 1200000 weight diff fluid. now the center unspools to easily, so time it crack into that as well

also put some of the stock yeti tires on there. they are harder, and a bit lighter/smaller than the RockLox, so should be a tab better on the drivetrain.

anyway. the driving was a bit more squirrely with the locked rear. so i think i will keep an open diff on hand to swap out when needed. only takes about 5 minutes to put another one in.

here is a quick video.

Axial Yeti, homemade Castle 2650 4s lipo - YouTube

[dasco]

Dude try some sill putty in those dif /spools makes a huge difference. I like mine way more now!

[mjderstine]

thank for the advice. i won't be doing that. i have spools available if i need them locked. silly putty i just a mess imo.

for a good tough oil the stuff over 1mil weight works great.

[Hoosierdady]

Nice work MJ! You need a skid underneith to protect the gears though.

[Bronco39]

Nice work !

[mjderstine]

Originally Posted by Hoosierdady

Nice work MJ! You need a skid underneith to protect the gears though.

you mean where that little gap is? i never have before...

i've been running it hard for 3 years now and the hardened steel mod1 teeth show no sign of wear at all. its more of a recess and they teeth dont stick down past the plate. i have seen lots of 1/8 buggies with setups like this hole and they havent used a skid,

dont get me worrying about it!

i need to get a real body on it. these panels don't look good imo.