Is a motor change worth it?

[tastetickles]

Hello everyone,

This is my first post but I've been lurking the forum for a few years now. I recently built my yeti and installed a tekin rx8 (first gen) with a pro4 4600kv which used to be on my exo buggy with a 16t pinion.

I'm currently just bashing it in the backyard but I wanted to run it on my local 1/8 buggy track. It has a few huge jumps and therefore I'm not too confident about the yeti since it nosedive a lot. I had tried changing out the rear shock oil to 30w but even on small speed bump jump, it's nosedive tendency is still there. I try adjusting my driving by saving some throttle to reduce the nosedive on mid flight but it doesn't feel enough of an effect.

My question is: would it be worthwhile to change my setup to 3s and running the pro4 hd 3000kv? considering the higher torque to control flight and the almost twice the weight of the 3s battery for better weight distribution. Thanks

[Sh0rtBus]

Not sure about the increased torque of the motor, but I would assume that would be enough to help control to nose diving tendencies of the Yeti in-flight. What little air I've caught with my Yeti has taught me to pretty much stay in the throttle all the way through the jump until just before. I have the RTR, so it's got the Vanguard 3100kv motor and I'm running a 3S lipo.

Try switching to 3S first to see if that helps and if not, then the Pro4 HD should definitely make it right.

[SteveC6R]

Until you've run it at your local track it's hard to know what it's going to do. I'd take out there and run it a few times and see how you like it before I did anything.

[MeanTT]

Everyone on this board loves the PRO4HD. I don't have one. If you want a sensored motor, check out the Tenshock SC411. They are essentially the same as a Tekin Pro4HD, except they cost 89 bucks new, and you can get deals on the on ebay, sometimes for as little as 60 bucks.

If you don't care about a sensor port and are bashing (like me) I have been VERY happy with the Leopard 4065 2700KV motor that I use. You will need to gear up quite a bit, but it's an absolute beast. It did make my ESC a little warm, so I sprung for a fan for all of 7 dollars. Geared with a 22T pinion and the 64T spur (which is a little tight, I don't recommend it) I got far more speed and torque from the set up. I am waiting on new slipper pads, but I will end up with a 20T and a 56T spur.

The motor costs 45 bucks on ebay. It runs about 115-120 degrees as mine is geared. It is stupid powerful. It has short motor leads so you might need to make an extender or something. If you want 1/8 scale power you can certainly have it with this set up. The motor is also rated for 3-5S. 3S on mine is about as fast as the chassis can handle with a locked rear diff. It is close to 40MPH if my napkin calculations are correct. Crazy torque and strong brakes as well.

I think some people on here have added the spare tire to get more weight on the rear and to improve the in flight performance. That may be your best bet if you simply want more flight control. Of course, it will hurt the performance on a track. The Yeti isn't a good jumping machine when it is compared to true race cars and trucks.

[kstowe]

I've been on an 1/8 scale track(dirt) and a 1/10 track(clay), and my Yeti didn't fare well. You want something that will lap fast, buy a sct or a buggy/truggy. This was never designed to go around a track like that and it shows. Not only were the jumps almost always sketchy, but the terrible steering doesn't make hairpins almost impossible. Not saying you can't make one go fast around a track, just saying you'll be wasting your money to do it, in my opinion.

My suggestion, run 3S in that! Then you decide what you want to do. I strictly run 3S on my 3500, I plugged in 4S and it scared me, so 3S is it for this truck.

[Rockwolf]

I have 0 track time to talk about or add to this debate, but I cannot say it hasn't crossed my mind! I bought the RTR and dropped a 45c 2s 5200mAh lipo in it and just had a blast! The nose heavy characteristic added to my not so precise driving ended up being the demise of the stock carrier and hub. I cannot bring myself to dump any money into a tekin just yet, but that HD is the one I will grab when the time comes. But until then I'm putting my money into the front suspension and addressing the entire steering! I'll prolly add the spare to the rear myself to try and counter that along with a little more weight and beef in the rear axle area.

Good luck with this I'll certainly be watching to see how you progress and to hopefully gain some knowledge to help me in my build.

[tastetickles]

Thanks for the replies guys. I have decided to try 3s as suggested, it will take a while before I can get my hands on a pro4 hd 3000kv since its out of stock everywhere plus I only have 2s stuff.

[MeanTT]

Before you take some "Sweet Jumps" you should fill the front shocks with at least 40 weight oil and consider stiffer springs. The front is really really floppy and will bottom out frequently, even with only a few inches of air and assuming a perfect 4 wheel landing.

[tastetickles]

Originally Posted by MeanTT

Before you take some "Sweet Jumps" you should fill the front shocks with at least 40 weight oil and consider stiffer springs. The front is really really floppy and will bottom out frequently, even with only a few inches of air and assuming a perfect 4 wheel landing.

Yup. I'm waiting for the axial blue spring. If that doesn't work, I'll try bigger bore shocks next.

[Sh0rtBus]

Originally Posted by MeanTT

Before you take some "Sweet Jumps" you should fill the front shocks with at least 40 weight oil and consider stiffer springs. The front is really really floppy and will bottom out frequently, even with only a few inches of air and assuming a perfect 4 wheel landing.

Lol...I built a ramp for mine following Cultus's write-up. Works great for my kid's Latraxx Teton!

[BoulderDan]

put flames and a wing on it, that's what i did, makes it go faster & handle better or at least it seems like it : )
if i can figure out how to post pic i would.

[JohnRobHolmes]

I don't see a point to putting the Pro4Hd in the rig VS the stock system unless it is for crawling. They have less power and torque, and it already seems borderline too weak for the gearing IMO. The stock motor is pretty dang awesome unless sensored is needed.

Which is why I'll be carrying a sensored 4 pole that is the same length as a stock motor but with more stator and rotor jammed inside If all goes smooth we will have stock in two to three weeks.

[Archangel]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

I don't see a point to putting the Pro4Hd in the rig VS the stock system unless it is for crawling. They have less power and torque, and it already seems borderline too weak for the gearing IMO. The stock motor is pretty dang awesome unless sensored is needed.

Which is why I'll be carrying a sensored 4 pole that is the same length as a stock motor but with more stator and rotor jammed inside If all goes smooth we will have stock in two to three weeks.

I'm motor shopping now and can't really afford the top of the line motors. How much power do you figure the stock Vanguard motor makes so I have a baseline to judge from?

[JohnRobHolmes]

Motor power is a useless metric, the cheap companies throw out anything they want. Go by motor size and weight. Bigger motors with more material make more power.

[Archangel]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

Motor power is a useless metric, the cheap companies throw out anything they want. Go by motor size and weight. Bigger motors with more material make more power.

Well that's simple enough.

[tastetickles]

Axial hard blue spring helped the jump a lot and a change to a 15t pinion from 16t improves the control a lot. Gonna try a few runs on track soon.

[MeanTT]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

I don't see a point to putting the Pro4Hd in the rig VS the stock system unless it is for crawling. They have less power and torque, and it already seems borderline too weak for the gearing IMO. The stock motor is pretty dang awesome unless sensored is needed.

Which is why I'll be carrying a sensored 4 pole that is the same length as a stock motor but with more stator and rotor jammed inside If all goes smooth we will have stock in two to three weeks.

Thank you! Do we know how many watts either of these motors puts out? I can say that a 4065 blows the stock set up out of the water. I know some are running 42MM cans as well.

[corefire]

Main rule for fast cross country cars: stiff front with hard springs and an soft rear to avoid endos while breaking and airtime.

also u can place your lipo in stock wraith style by removing fuelcell and the other scalecrab :-)