DLUX Front End Guide and Wheel Fitment

[802coma]

This will not be a step by step install of the DLUX front axle upgrade for the Yeti, it will be more of a overview. What comes with the kit, options you have, addressing some of the items you'll find while installing the kit.

The 2nd post in this thread will be a list of what wheels will fit and what ones won't.

(I am not affiliated with Erik (DLUX) in anyway) there's a lot of info on this setup in people's threads and I've been seeing lots of questions as well. Feel like a lot of this stuff should be all in one place. DickyT and Opie will be providing some of the pictures in this thread as well. Thank you guys.

*This will be based on the Ofna shaft version*


One of the questions I see a lot is "what comes with the kit?" Answer is everything you need.

- Knuckles
- Shafts
- Bearings for knuckles
- BMRC spool or open diff
- Ofna drive cups
- Drive hubs
- Hardware

Here is some pics....











The install is based on my rig. Some of the items to note....I am running STRC caster blocks, RPM A arms, unknown tie rods with jato and revo rod ends. Also modded outer hinge pin with Vaterra 32mm pins.

With the RPM arms in the front this is not a bolt on and go kit. As you can see in the pic below the drive cups sit out substantially farther and are bigger diameter, this causes the up travel of the suspension to be limited.






If setting up a open differential (option when ordering) you will not use the spool but some outputs for a diff carrier. Here is some pictures of the outputs, partial assembly and fully assembled.








Nothing a Dremel can't fix, I used a sanding drum and actually left the arms right on. The way my suspension is set up my shock now bottoms out before the arm on the diff cup.





Once I got the items in the front differential squared away it was time to bolt on the knuckle. With the chamber link bolted in the suspension was once again limited. The chamber link mount on the chassis side has 4 positions. At the time I was using the lowest and most inside hole. But with the new diff cups the space is now limited. I found the only chamber link position that would work without modding is the upper most outside setting, as you can see in the pics it still doesn't provide much room. Edit* the other top hole can be used for your chamber link as well, rubs slightly but doesn't cause any issues.







Time to bolt on the tie rod. At this time during my install it was getting pretty late to say the least. As you can see in the pic I bolted the tie rod on top of the steering arm.



This is NOT correct. It will cause major bump steer. After seeing that I bolted it below and still had the same issue but not as pronounced. Ended up with having to space the arm down at the knuckle another 4mm to get the tie rod parallel to the chamber link for bump steer free suspension.



Once the other knuckle is on you will notice the rig is going to be toe out. Now is the time to straighten this out the best you can.

With the RPM arms it's not capable of full lock to lock steering. I clearanced 2 spots on each knuckle and 1 spot on each caster block. Here is some pics, remember this might need more or less, maybe none depending on the arms and hinge pins you are running.













When installing the hubs, there is two different widths you can use. There is 4 small aluminum thin walled spacers. Two of each size, smaller one is for the narrower setting while the larger one is for the wider setting. Here is the orientation of each setting.





I found on the narrower setting that a VP .725 hub in the rear matches great! Set up whatever width best suites you, slide the massive 2.5mm drive pin through deep enough so it is not visible from the mounting face of the hub. Then in the stub shaft is a 2mm drive set screw that locks it into place. (This might need to be backed out before sliding the pin in)

There are 12 holes on the hub. 6 of those are your typical VP SLW threads with a 4-40 thread. The other 6 are threaded for a m3 thread.




Doesn't seem like much for a difference in the hub settings but it is noticeable, here is 2 pictures of just a wheel mounted on each setting. Using a 6 Bolt wheel.






Really hope people find this useful. If anyone wants any particular pictures just let me know and I'll try to get them up. Thanks again, the next post will be a list of wheels people have found that fit and ones that don't.

[802coma]

Wheel Fitment list

I will keep this updated as people post what their findings are. Note this is only a list that have been confirmed. For example the 6 bolts fit so carter fab wheels should have no problems as well but I do not want to post that they do but for some reason they don't.


*Clearance Dimensions*
ID of wheel/OD of knuckle = 1.9"
Wheel mount surface to knuckle (narrow) = .1875"
Wheel mount surface to knuckle (wide) = .2995"



Wheels that fit:

-Crawler Innovations 6 Bolts (both hub settings)
-Vanquish Products Method 101's (no wheel wideners and on wider setting, have not confirmed narrow)
-RC4WD Hitmans


Wheels that could fit with modifications:

-Lockup RC Iconics (both settings would require same clearancing)


Wheels that do not fit:

-Vanquish Products SLW V3
-Gearhead Lightweight U4

[Sh0rtBus]

Nice write up so far!

[dasco]

Dude this thread will help out tremendously... you the man coma!!!!! Keep up the good work broski !!!

[SteveC6R]

Nice write up.

[JesterSpec]

Very Nice!

[802coma]

Thanks for all the comments guys! Just trying to help people out if this is something they want to go with.

[802coma]

Wheel Fitment, I'm gonna post just a list up at post 2 with a link to the post if there is pictures and such from myself and others that have info on the wheels.

With that said....the Crawler Innovations 6 Bolts have been a real go to choice for this set up. They are light, cheap and they look good. The only downside for most is that they are glue ons. These wheels fit either hub setting with no clearance issues.

The ID of the wheel is 2.12"

[802coma]

I had a set of Locked Up RC 2.2 Iconics so I test fitted them. These rub ever so slightly and could be made to work.

I would say you will have to knock the corners down on the carbon fiber arms a hair and they will clear. You will also have to grind down the inner diameter of the locking rings as well, I only had axial rings. But possible some PL? Rings from MThead would offer enough clearance so no modification on the inner ring would have to be made. Last pic is the rings I was thinking.

I also flipped the wheel, same amount of type of clearance issue just not along the whole knuckle. I wouldn't think someone would do this because it would greatly widen the track width.

The ID of the wheel measured 1.8965"

Note: I did have the wheel bolted on.


Normal






Flipped





This was the track width problem I stated with flipping the wheel.




Here is a pic of MThead rings that I would personally pick up if one decided to run this kind of wheel.

[802coma]

Vanquish SLW V3 (I believe, someone correct me if I'm wrong) have no chance in fitting on these knuckles.

[802coma]

I had my buddy's Vanquish Methods with the Bmachines wheel wideners. Did not fit on either setting.

On the wide setting looks like if the wideners we're not installed they would of been fine, the bolt heads for the clamping we're hitting and without the wideners the bolt head would of been closer to the mounting face of the wheel.

I cannot say if they would on the narrower setting either, it would be close.

I have read that the OMFs are the same setup on the backside so if that is the case those wheels would be in the same boat.

Sorry I did not get any pictures of this...

[JustinM]

Can you measure the I.D of the wheel that clears the knuckle?

[802coma]

Originally Posted by JustinM

Can you measure the I.D of the wheel that clears the knuckle?

The locked up wheels or the crawler innovations and yes I was going to but won't be until Tuesday unfortunately

[JustinM]

Both...Sounds good.

[802coma]

Originally Posted by JustinM

Both...Sounds good.

Lol sounds good, I will also get the measurement from the hub (both settings) to the knuckle

[opie]

Awesome right up Coma. This will be a very useful thread.

[802coma]

Originally Posted by opie

Awesome right up Coma. This will be a very useful thread.

Thanks Opie, some of this are questions I asked you and that's where I got the idea from haha

[opie]

You did a way better job at putting in writing then I ever could have. Lol

[802coma]

Originally Posted by opie

You did a way better job at putting in writing then I ever could have. Lol

Thanks again, I got a feeling my build threads will be a lot more detail now I busted out my DSLR. I don't know why I didn't think of using it before, I can get those much more detailed pics better over what the phone can do.

[Rockwolf]

Wow you are really putting in the work here! These type of threads require real dedication to keep up with bro, so I applaud you! I also would like to give you a very sincere thank you, as these are the #1, next on my list upgrade, and hopefully baring set-backs, I should be sending my order this coming Friday! So you can prolly guess how unbelievable useful this thread is, and will be to me, in the very near future!