RCCrawler Forums - Yvo's Yeti

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Yeti 1/10 RTR version, running on 2s 5000 mAh Turnigy hardcase lipo’s. Mainly used for gravel drifting and rock/bush racing. Normal jumps. No bashing. I want to drive it, not destroy it.

I love it. Both the looks and the technical design. And how I can drive it. A few modifications though.

Modifications, phase 1:

Stock Hubs with integrated hexes replaced by the Axial Service Pack AX31074.
Replaced the rear springs with the slightly stronger AX30214, 1.71 lbs/in.
Added the light module AX24257, Plastidip’d the module to be water proof. Module is in the dummy fuel tank. Power from the remaining rx channel. Connection between the cage and the fuel tank is done with a 2.5 mm jack plug. One hand operation instead of two.
Roof is also Plastidip’d.

Modifications, phase 2:

The plastic in the left steering knuckle holding the bolt to the steering arm was a bit ripped. Exchanged both left and right bolts with longer bolts and secured them with nuts.
Made carbon side panels from 0.33 mm carbon sheet.
Accompanied by the AMF Racing Aluminum Axial Yeti Hood, covered with carbon film.
Exchanged the rear shock springs for the red ones from the hot-racing.com Axial optional set YET90FS14. Little weaker again (1.32 lbs/in). Want black springs up front, but didn’t find any suitable yet.
Vanquish Titanium Front Link Kit. Painted matt black and matt red.

About the latter: For looks only. I don’t need additional strength and after such an upgrade, forces will remain the same and find the next weak spot. So everything up to the servo needs upgrading then. I don’t bother, for what I use my Yeti for, I have perfect control as it is now.

Future upgrades:

Axial Machined Front Shock Tower AX31170, when the holes in the stock one wear out.
Double action shock pistons (for faster rebound) from the AX80033 Shock Parts Tree. To be done when shocks need new oil.
Lower back trailing arms, the stock ones will have to be replaced sooner or later, better sooner. Not later, typically at the field. Will reinforce them first with epoxy and carbon.
Wheels: I like the stock Walker Evans wheels, including the adjustable venting, beadlocks are also holding well, but none of the four wheels is round, they have to go eventually. Options are Mickey Thompson Metal MT-28 Internal Beadlock Stamped 2.2" Steel Wheels or black TSS 2.2 Robby Gordon Beadlocks.
Tires. Combination of functionality and looks, haven’t decided yet. But prefer round shoulders for smoother drifting. But “square” tires for the looks. Stock BFGoodrich tires will do for now

Tires can be one of the following:

Mickey Thompson 2.2 Baja Claw TTC Radial Scale Tires.
Proline Super Swamper XL 2.2”.
Voodoo U4.
Pitbull Rockbeast.
Or even the Hot Bodies Rover 2.2 Rock Crawler Tire.

Your carbon inner panels where did u get the sheet and did you just trace the cage and cut it out? That can be cut with scissor right?

The sheets were obtained here and it was indeed making a paper template following the cage. The carbon can be cut easily with decent scissors. Be gentle with drilling holes though, the stuff is very brittle.

Yvo

Thanks. Very cool love the blacked out look.. I just started my kit. Ordered gunmetal parts but now wish I had gone black :)

Does anybody have a printable template for inner panels? And the hood?

Just trace the cage. Goes very easy...

Yvo

Quote:

Originally Posted by TKG26 (Post 5223457)

Does anybody have a printable template for inner panels? And the hood?

New wheels and a few more red details... ;-)

Edit: Almost forgot, also exchanged the lower trailing arms for ssd-rc ones. They're perfect. Also optically.

Mickey Thompson Metal MT-28 Internal Beadlocks and Vanquish SLW rotors.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...1/IMG_7539.JPG
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https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...1/IMG_7545.JPG
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https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...1/IMG_7546.JPG

Yvo

No calipers? Haha, looks good! I have those on the radar for mine too but not until ALOT of other things are upgraded first though.

Great job on your buildup so far.

Thx, and when you order them, they come with two per ordered item. Not four. Don't ask me how I know ;-)

Yvo

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrazyQ (Post 5254530)

No calipers? Haha, looks good! I have those on the radar for mine too but not until ALOT of other things are upgraded first though.

Great job on your buildup so far.

Love the blacked out look. Out of curiosity, do you use any special paint for the red accents, like the fire extinguisher or the Axial logo on the diff cover?

Looks good! Keep up the good work.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrazyQ (Post 5255972)

Looks good! Keep up the good work.

Thx. Is to be continued...

Quote:

Originally Posted by ark1t3kt (Post 5255921)

Love the blacked out look. Out of curiosity, do you use any special paint for the red accents, like the fire extinguisher or the Axial logo on the diff cover?

The Axial logo on the diff cover is regular red hobby paint. Revell in this case. The fire extinguisher was painted but is now covered with a sticker from the sticker sheet that comes with a transparent Yeti body.
The slw rotors/discs from Vanquish come in red and the steering arms on the front suspension (Vanquish as well) are also painted with the Revell paint.
For the roof I used black PlastiDip.

Yvo

Modifications so far by the way:

Stock Hubs with integrated hexes replaced by the Axial Service Pack AX31074.
Replaced the rear springs with the slightly stronger AX30214, 1.71 lbs/in.
Roof is Plastidip’d.
Made carbon side panels from 0.33 mm carbon sheet.
Accompanied by the AMF Racing Aluminum Axial Yeti Hood, covered with carbon film.
Vanquish Titanium Front Link Kit. Painted matt black and matt red.
Axial Machined Front Shock Tower AX31170.
SSD rear trailing arms.
Mickey Thompson Metal MT-28 Internal Beadlock Stamped 2.2" Steel Wheels. For which I used AX30427 Axial narrow hubs.
Axial AX30222 70 mm springs in the front suspension.

Yvo

Done this week/today:

Brake lights added, see entry in the Electronics forum and exchanged the stock shock pistons by the double action shock pistons (for faster rebound) from the AX80033 shock parts tree.

Movie t̶o̶m̶o̶r̶r̶o̶w̶. Next week.

Yvo

Decided to change to 17/56 pinion/spur for a little extra speed without loosing to much torque.

Due to the smaller pinion, the motor has to be tilted towards the spur. Which stretches the leads to the ESC. Just a bit to much for my taste, so I rotated the motor on the transmission motor mount 45 degrees ccw.
Which brings the leads close to the antenna, again a bit to much for my taste, so I relocated the rx in the fuel cell. Better after all when driving through puddles. The original rx box isn't water"proof" anymore anyway with the four leads coming out (servo, esc, two relais for the lights).

So the rx is in the fuel cell now, together with two relais for the lights in the body/cage.
Esc and servo lead coming in, one servo lead coming out. The latter is the connection with the body/cage lighting. General mass, plus for one light set and plus for the other light set.

I drive on gravel a lot and the front tires throw a lot of those little stones into the chassis when spinning. So I attached two little shields. Helps a lot.

In the front:
I replaced the Axial shock bodies by black STRC Front Threaded Shock Bodies. Still using AX30222's, the 70mm blue springs in combination with 20wt oil.
The stock drive shafts tend to pop out of the cups (wheel side) when the suspension is maxed down and wheel pointing to far outwards (when steering and hitting a rock or similar). So replaced them with GPM Racing CVD's.

Pictures below.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...1/IMG_7794.JPG
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https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...1/IMG_7795.JPG
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https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...1/IMG_7796.JPG
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https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...1/IMG_7797.JPG
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https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...1/IMG_7798.JPG