Dialing in my suspension

[twisted]

So this is the closest I have gotten to a decent suspension set up on my yeti.

The buggyuggy now jumps level or nose up. The only time it will ass over is when you are at full throttle into a jump. The set up isn't perfect but very close. it still needs some tweaking.

Front:
Yellow stock springs with adjusters turned all the way down and an added 1/8" preload clip. Dog bones level with ground.
60 wt oil with stock pistons
Medium axial sway bar.
Inside mount on arms and middle mount on tower.

Rear:
40wt oil stock Pistons.
Axial blue springs
About 1/4" down on preload collars.

I think the front needs a stiffer spring and possibly a stiffer sway bar. I also want to try some weight in the fuel cell. The buggy jump a lot better compared to stock and my other set ups i have tried. It does however want to dive in on the outside wheel into turns. That could be one of three things, to light in the oil/spring combo or the sway bar is too light. Could also be caused from the the foam in the rtr tires being to soft.

The biggest problem with the yeti imo is the ass end jumping high. That is where my main focus is now,to calm that down or hopefully get rid of it all together. I think Iam finally on the right track.

[Teenracer]

Hi Twisted,

I run nearly the same set up

Try installing the optional variable rate pistons in the rear shocks, with the slow rebound / fast compression direction.

I found it stops the donkey kicking once the rear has compressed.

Hope it helps
Marc

[STANG KILLA SS]

I run 60 in front and rear on mine.
with axial blue springs out back as well.
really helps with that rear kick up.

bump up your rear oil. your bottoming out at the peak which kicks up the rear.

[twisted]

Originally Posted by Teenracer

Hi Twisted,

I run nearly the same set up

Try installing the optional variable rate pistons in the rear shocks, with the slow rebound / fast compression direction.

I found it stops the donkey kicking once the rear has compressed.

Hope it helps
Marc

is there a pic of the instructions for this? i assume they are like the rpm ones?

[altd896]

Originally Posted by twisted

is there a pic of the instructions for this? i assume they are like the rpm ones?

It's near the back of the kit instructions, page 54 to be exact
It's not mentioned in the rtr instrucions

http://docs.axialracing.com/instruct...ic_4WD_Kit.pdf

[twisted]

Originally Posted by altd896

It's near the back of the kit instructions, page 54 to be exact
It's not mentioned in the rtr instrucions

http://docs.axialracing.com/instruct...ic_4WD_Kit.pdf

thanks!

[binaryterror]

Are the 2 stage molded better than the stock units? My RTR took so long just to polish the edges to fit well (not flash, out of round and overheated mold).

I have the Delrin pistons now, which are awesome, but I want to try the 2 stage, just not spend all that time and still have questions on if the holes are accurate.

[twisted]

Originally Posted by binaryterror

Are the 2 stage molded better than the stock units? My RTR took so long just to polish the edges to fit well (not flash, out of round and overheated mold).

I have the Delrin pistons now, which are awesome, but I want to try the 2 stage, just not spend all that time and still have questions on if the holes are accurate.

i havent put them in yet so im not sure. i would think we would want fast rebound and slower compression???

i also noticed that the 3 hole pistons are smaller then the 2 hole pistons. the kits manual says that they are firmer then the 2 hole. i want more dampening up front so i might go to them there.

[Teenracer]

Try it the other way and see how it goes, my reasoning was slow compression would add to the problem by making the suspension stiffer when absorbing the bumps. Depends I guess on what you're doing with it

[Dan Zic]

For me. I made the most improvement when i set the truck up without oil in the shocks. This allows you to set up the ride height and what I would call the "spring balance".


This may not work for everyone. Somebody with more experience may be able to skip this step. IF YOU HAVE NOT TRIED THIS STOP NOW AND F'ING DO IT!!!

Think about it like an algebra equation with multiple variables. you have weight of the rig, suspension mount location, spring rate, oil weight, preloads, ect. This is a very hard equation to solve. What you need to do is eliminate a few of them to make it easier.

Get your rig set up. Suspension locations. Final running weight. ect. THEN LEAVE THAT Sh*T! With no oil in the shocks, start messing with springs and preloads. When your happy with the ride height and balance of the springs, LEAVE THEM ALONE! Now go to oil. Make a guess or use factory wt as a start. Then change incrementally up or down one end at a time to dial in the speed.


I use the HR spring kits and a full set of shock fluids. I run a 3s 4400. Rig is mostly stock as far is weight goes just durability modifications. This is the setup I ended up with before breaking the plastic steering rack.

Factory shock positions
FRONT - Blue 54mm 4.95lb AX30230 - 45wt fluid - preload down all the way
REAR - BLUE 90mm 3.01lb AX30217 - 30wt fluid - preload in the middle