The First Ever of its Kind! YETIX Buildthread!

[Tgreer]

The transmission got all put together with stainless screws from KNK, a HR metal spur, and the STRC motor mount!

[Tgreer]

Ok here's what you all have been waiting for...........................................






YETIX KIT from CBERCFAB!!!





This kit fixes all the problems the yeti has had with the front IFS, by replacing it entirely with BASH PROVEN Traxxas Slash or Stampede front IFS. Everything on the traxxas ifs is beefier, including larger diff bearings, 6mm drive ouput, thicker gears, heavier duty axles, A arms, knuckle, and C hubs. Plus, these traxxas parts are very affordable, easily obtainable, and have tons of killer upgrade options!

This is the stage 1 kit, it includes:

14ga skid plate
14ga top plate
Revo 6mm ball cup
Handmade chomoly extended output
Stainless hardware from KNK
New hardened through bolts for a arms
5mm aluminum shims
Body mounts

Requierd, but not included in stage 1:

A complete traxxas 4x4 slash or stampede front IFS, including the traxxas front bulkhead. You do not need the traxxas front shocks, the yeti front shocks bolt right up!

[redsawacs]

What is the point to this upgrade? Stronger diff?

[Tgreer]

Originally Posted by redsawacs

What is the point to this upgrade? Stronger diff?

Stronger everything in the front, the knuckles, a arms, a arm pins, c hubs, tierods, every peice in the diff (bearings, gears, outputs), plus you can run mip shafts with no issue. This kit was designed for the bashers that are tired of fixing front end issues on there yeti!

[CustomCrawlRCMike]

Your Yetix build looks killer! : o Can't wait to start on mine!

[redsawacs]

Ohhhh, I see....does it solve the cage breakage on heavy topside slams?

Should have bought a Traxxas

[rustneversleeps]

Originally Posted by redsawacs

Ohhhh, I see....does it solve the cage breakage on heavy topside slams?

Should have bought a Traxxas

and left the yeti on the shelf....don't get me wrong i love my Yeti way more then my Slash

[Tgreer]

To install the stage 1 kit, there's a few mods required. If you purchase the stage 2 kit the parts are included that need modded and those mods are done for you.

Get your Dremel with a cut off wheel. Your first cut will be removing the front end where the diff is bolted. Make a clean cut where the thick and thin part meet.



Next thing to cut is your top plastic plate. Two straight simple cuts are required. As see in the pic flip the peice upside down and cut along the plastic line that you can see in the pic. Do both sides.


Next is your battery tray. Cut a 1/2" channel in the location you see in the pic, also grind a curve in the upright lip as shown. This allows your tranny to fit properly.


The final cut will be on you front traxxas slash bulkhead. Cut straight across as shown in the pic, make sure you cut right behind the the raised plastic line. That raised part seals off the traxxas diff.


Some of the motor mounts depending on what brand you have still rub the driveline just a touch, so I hit it with a quick little grind just to make sure, right where the driveline would sit under the motor plate.


Next , your tranny must be raised 5mm. So, turn your chassis upside down with the tranny removed, and lay the 6 tranny screws in there hole and tape over them. Then flip the rig back over and slide the 5mm shims over all six screws. Use some E6000 or shoegoo, and glue the shims to the chassis. This will keep them from moving when you set your tranny on top of them.


While your waiting on the glue to set up, get your tranny and remove the rear potion to replace the stock output shaft with the extended chomoly one provided in the kit. Once you swap that and your glue is setup, your ready to reinstall your tranny.



At this point it's time to install the traxxas front end.............to be continued.

[gmc2313]

best upgrade i ever did hands down! makes it a blast to drive again

[Tgreer]

Here is the traxxas slash IFS. I decided to go all out on this as well! Here's a list of all the upgrades!

RPM a arms
Revo locker with 6mm outputs
Supershaftey 6mm mip ball ends
Integy shock tower
Integy c hubs
Integy knuckle
CBERCFAB A arm bolts from the kit
Limiting straps

[Tgreer]

The next step is to bolt the traxxas front end to the yeti chassis. First, make sure you replace the two silly little plastic nuts with the pair of stainless ones from the kit. Take the revo cup provided in the kit and install it on the diff. output. Then, run the two hardened bolts provided in the kit through the traxxas IFS and into the the front of the yeti chassis and snug it down. Make sure the driveshaft slides into the revo cup as your bolting it on.




Now your ready for the 14gage metal top plate. Start with the two 4mm screws and secure them to the traxxas diff. Then take the two 3mm long screws and run them down just until the head touches the plate on the two lower middle holes. Then take the two other 3mm screws and run them down till snug on the steering towers. Now, go back and tighten the lower middle screw the rest of the way down till they are snug.



Now your ready for the final peice, the skid plate! Flip the rig over and get the 4 3mm flat screws started across the bottom. Then, grab the 3 4mm flat screws and run them all the way in snug. Make sure your bumper is installed, those 3 screws go through it on the bottom. Now go back a snug down the 4 3mm flat screws on the bottom. Take a drill bit slightly smaller than a 3mm screw and carefully drill a hole in the 3 remaining screw holes, then run the other three 3mm flat screws into the skid until they are snug. You can also install a nut on those three screws you drilled for to secure them further.

[Tgreer]

So, now you've got the kit installed and look down to see two little plastic clips...........what the heck are these for???

Well, check this out!!!



I know that axial made it so you can flip the rear, but the radius that it can flip open is pathetic and you can't get your hands in to work on anything very good. This setup opens up entirely allowing you full access to the rig. Just pull the two rear clips and flip it open to work on whatever you need to!

[CrazyQ]

Awesome build, I'm really taking a liking to this swap. In the near future I'll be putting in for a Stage 1 and gonna build up the slash front from scratch with upgraded parts to save some getting my hands on a stock front just to upgrade it anyways.

love the way the cage opens this way too instead of the factory way.

I'm going to be looking at the option to run a 2.2 wheel/tire though.

[Tgreer]

I decided to doll up the body and interior, gave freakskinz a shout, and he sent me these amazing body and interior skinz!







Also did a little painting on some of the details!





For wheels and tires I had duuuuuuuuude make me a super nice set of glue on wheels with the slw hub pattern. The tires are the voodoo U4 silver dot. I put a cut on the tread pattern that I like to call "meat grinders".

[84yoda]

Wow, i really like that tread cut. What did you use to cut it so clean? Did you do it with tire off the rim?

YetiX looks badass as well, good job.

[frdtrkguy]

Just thought I'd throw in some comparison tech. The traxxas with 1" CI wheels and .600 hubs is only slightly wider than the yeti. Same wheels. So a guy could run the 2.2 combo if he wanted to avoid the extra cost of custom wheels.. Like I posted before, its not some ridiculous difference..

[CrazyQ]

Originally Posted by frdtrkguy

Just thought I'd throw in some comparison tech. The traxxas with 1" CI wheels and .600 hubs is only slightly wider than the yeti. Same wheels. So a guy could run the 2.2 combo if he wanted to avoid the extra cost of custom wheels.. Like I posted before, its not some ridiculous difference..

But how does the front sit with 2.2's? When its all said and done, I'd like to run the TSL/SX 2.2 on 2.2 beadlocks. Or is this just not a realistic goal and will need to run custom 2.5's up front and 2.2's out back and of course not the TSL/SX.

[frdtrkguy]

The front is about the same. Under 12.5" even if you ran a Little wider tires than these badlands. My slash also has a couple degrees of toe out in this pic too.

[frdtrkguy]

In this pic the yeti is a bit wider but keep in mind that the treps are a little wider than the badlands. Also a little more negative camber on the yeti. My point to all of this is that if a guy wanted to run 2.2's, he could without being excessively wide.

[CrazyQ]

so running 725 in the front to clear everything with 2.2's?

sorry, just trying to understand before I dive into this swap how it'll sit and what's needed to run 2.2's.