Yeti Dlux Ofna Kit Install

[Sh0rtBus]

I certainly understand where it can be frustrating to spend money on parts only to have to modify them to make them work right. But I think we all lost sight of what this thread is really about and that's the OP trying to explain what he did to make the kit work and provide the most function possible. I'm definitely no moderator but I think any further critique of the product or anything other than questions should probably be directed to another thread, as this has gone pretty far off topic at this point.

OP.....thanks for the great write-up! I'm sure it'll be a great help to those who choose to go this route in beefing up the Yeti front end.

[A1Fiddler]

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

Thanks for the great write up Andrew! Its always nice to have as much information out there as possible. I am sure it will be helpful.

That was my intent. I apologize for this thread turning into what seems to be bashing your product. I intended quite the opposite! I was hoping to make this kit easy for people to install - you sell more kits and people like me are more prepared for what's involved with installing it.

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

Curious with the statement above, what extra parts did you need that I didnt include? Looks like I forgot the steering arm screws? They should have been included. Nothing else really should have been missing unless I forgot them though, which is possible.

I guess you did. I didn't realize they were supposed to come with the kit. Not including those, I needed the following to complete the kit:

M3x6mm set screws (x4) (if using 4-40 wheel screws)
M3x21mm (or longer) screws (x2)
M3 locknuts (x2)
3mm I.D. x6mm spacer (x2)

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

I really think Andrew was being through with his write up. There really isnt much materiel removal that needs to happen. If you look at this picture, it shows very little materiel removal and what I am assuming is more than enough clearance? He also choose to remove from the RPM arm and the knuckle. You could do just the knuckle. Many ways to skin a cat.

That part of the arm shaving was very minimal and I did remove more than was necessary because once I got it all together, the steering was limited somewhere other than the knuckle against the arm.

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

If there is ever any bearing slop on any part, a drop of loc tite on the bearing will amaze you.

Next time I have it apart I may give this a shot. It really was extremely minimal. I'm just used to working on real cars where all bearings get pressed into place.

[rob4607]

Originally Posted by redsawacs

Rob4607, your 13 yr old comments are adding nothing to this thread but drama. I think it relevant to ask you to keep your trolling posts to the chit chat section and allow the Original Post mark to continue his thread without your negativity.

If you would like to critique D_LUX, perhaps you should message him directly...

P.S. Binary has a point regarding Traxxas, perhaps you should consider what his comment actually means instead of considering it a direct attack on you. Again, I leave you with "........."

Sorry Fiddler, you may proceed.

It's convenient that your buddy can make rude ass comments to people all the time and make fun of people and shit in every thread, I say something and you say something to me. Pretty top notch. The Traxxas comment was generalized and to many. This is a damn Internet forum where many come to give their input, ask for help and should be able to post what they think about things, items or what ever especially when it comes to products or vendors. If no one were allowed to say anything negative we would all be getting crappy parts because no one could say anything, lighten up...

D Lux, thanks for your response and it makes sense. I think some of us, or from the flaming prior the only one but yes I would be one of the guys that buy the arms, new pins and whatever else. I live outside of town so it's a 20-30 minute ride to anywhere much less a local hobby store so all in one convenience makes life much easier. Apparently others do not agree and that is fine, but it would be frustrating to get a few hundred in parts to have to add some more. I have not looked at your website in a few weeks so I can't remember the wording to know if this information is in there, either way not a big deal. The problem that makes it difficult for me is that I do not have small fabrication stuff like a Dremel and such, the smallest that I have is a 4" grinder or a bench grinder which I'm sure would shoot these across the shop a few times...

Either way I'm sure it is an awesome product, it would just be easier for me being more finished out with the trimming/shaving that needs to be done to make it all work. I'm sure the masses are fine with it the way it is so my input is moot but figured as a business owner it would be good knowledge.

I would say if I was single and kid-less (free time) I thought about the other day about using this kit on a rear steer build, using like the front arms and balls off an mbx7T somehow, dunno just figured it'd be fun if I ever did the low gearing and some crawling.

[trig n tahoe]

Originally Posted by redsawacs

Rob4607, your 13 yr old comments are adding nothing to this thread but drama. I think it relevant to ask you to keep your trolling posts to the chit chat section and allow the Original Post mark to continue his thread without your negativity.

If you would like to critique D_LUX, perhaps you should message him directly...

P.S. Binary has a point regarding Traxxas, perhaps you should consider what his comment actually means instead of considering it a direct attack on you. Again, I leave you with "........."

Sorry Fiddler, you may proceed.

Boy..... Is that calling the kettle black or what....... Ass

[Erik D_lux]

Originally Posted by A1Fiddler

I guess you did. I didn't realize they were supposed to come with the kit. Not including those, I needed the following to complete the kit:

M3x6mm set screws (x4) (if using 4-40 wheel screws)
M3x21mm (or longer) screws (x2)
M3 locknuts (x2)
3mm I.D. x6mm spacer (x2)

Man, I thought about it and thought about it, I couldnt figure out where you would need this hardware in the install but then it hit me..... this must be to attach the steering links? If so, yes, you will need hardware to attach the steering links (I thought stock parts worked but I could be wrong). Everything else should be in there for you.

Originally Posted by rob4607

I'm sure the masses are fine with it the way it is so my input is moot but figured as a business owner it would be good knowledge.

For sure. I appreciate all the feedback, good or bad.

I wish I could please everybody, but I am sure you can guess how that goes.....

[A1Fiddler]

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

Man, I thought about it and thought about it, I couldnt figure out where you would need this hardware in the install but then it hit me..... this must be to attach the steering links? If so, yes, you will need hardware to attach the steering links (I thought stock parts worked but I could be wrong). Everything else should be in there for you.

Right, the set screws are for the hub to keep the pin in, and the rest are to attach the steering links. The steering link needs to be lowered 6mm to match the angle of the camber link.

[Erik D_lux]

You can do the 3mm set screws in the hub but, you can also just use the set screw thats in the stub shaft if youre not using the 3mm hub screws. I am like you though, I would use the set screws in there. ZERO chance of ever losing a hex pin, having your wheel loosen up or falling off. Thats by FAR the coolest thing about that hub setup IMO.

[A1Fiddler]

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

You can do the 3mm set screws in the hub but, you can also just use the set screw thats in the stub shaft if youre not using the 3mm hub screws. I am like you though, I would use the set screws in there. ZERO chance of ever losing a hex pin, having your wheel loosen up or falling off. Thats by FAR the coolest thing about that hub setup IMO.

I didn't even realize there was a set screw in the stub shaft. Now I have to go look. I assume it locks against the hub pin. Even so, I feel better with the set screws on either side of the pin in the hub.