Axial AX90050 Yeti™ SCORE® Trophy Truck® 1/10 Scale Electric 4WD – RTR

[stevetate12]

That would be cool........silverado body for it ...that the axial cage bolts to.....i like the body it comes with but im not a ford fan and this is clearly supposed to be a raptor

[joerc2013]

Another score running video for you guys.
Another running video for you guys.

[tooltimenova]

Took the Yeti TT out for a trail run today. I have the Proline power stroke (Slash rear) for the front ready for install and the Proline power stroke XL on the way for the rear.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3 using magic and voodoo.

[jeb.]

Here's a little something going into my TT:


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[imthatguy]

Lights eh?

[yellowdatsun]

Ahhhh, you totally copied my lights! I don't care, and it's good to see people modding these trucks.




Here's my thread if anyone is interested:\

http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/a...-tt-build.html

Headlights and blinkers:
http://vid262.photobucket.com/albums...pswie5n0xy.mp4

"Emergency" style flashing:
http://vid262.photobucket.com/albums...pslzojmg3i.mp4

All on:
http://vid262.photobucket.com/albums...ps9jo3cymw.mp4

Also, full front protection for the bumper and A-arms from T-Bone racing, this is all purely Yeti stuff. Anything on the underside that's made for a yeti should fit, it's only where It gets close to the body that I'd start to worry about fitment. Anyways, on to the pics!:




And a diff slid plate:



Sorry for the crap pics from my potato-cam.

[Boost Lee]

New lights.

Jeb I used pn# AX30709. I added a 64t spur, 17t pinion gear, metal motor mount and a HR diff cover.

I had to add more bracing to help keep the lights upright.

Yellowdatson we have similar top mounts😉. I put the bottom to the bumper to try and keep the lights steady. I find the whole front end bounces around like crazy while driving.

[yellowdatsun]

I had thought about that, and figured I should mount with one or the other, to keep it easy to remove the body. I chose the top because that's where all my other lights were going to be mounted.

[Banjoblue]

Recently purchased Yeti TT and plan on running Venom 3s 50c batts. What gearing would be optimal to use with these batts. for optimal torque, speed and temps. Not too terribly impressed with the out of the box speed under 3s power. I've read a lot on changing to a 20t pinion and utilizing stock spur? True?

[stevetate12]

I'm not a 3s guy...but not knowing how fast you want it to go....i can tell you I think it hauls *** with a 20t pinion on 2s......i also think just putting in a normal 4 pole sct motor in my case I like the 3800kv castle which will plug right it would do it as well.....im still tinkering with mine had it out on the track this weekend.......but so far that's what I think works best between mine and another one im running with

[yellowdatsun]

I also run the 20t pinion and stock spur, on 2s, and it's plenty fast. There's zero need to run this truck on 3s, regardless of what the reviewers have said. If you keep the stock pinion, then yeh, you'll need 3s to get speed. But I don't know why you wouldn't just change out a $5 pinion and call it good. The truck still has a crap-ton of torque with the 20t pinion on 2s.

That stock pinion would be fine if you wanted to do rock crawling with it.

[reklund5]

Hey guys, new member here. I recently got a SCORE TT and have been having some fun with it. I have done a few simple mods, mainly just to the battery try to allow a big battery to fit. I added the Axial simple LED kit yesterday and have a couple questions. Since the kit came with 4 white and 2 red LEDS, I eliminated 2 of the front white lights and now just have headlights and taillights. The wiring was too short out of the box, so I lengthened the wiring and got it all working as it did before I cut it up. Lights are installed and look great, just need some better tape to secure the wiring and control board to the underside of the Lexan body. I read that I can use the 3rd channel of the remote to control the lights, but so far I haven't been able to get it to do anything. The lights come on when I turn on the main switch on the car, and stay on until I turn off the car. The Ch.3 buttons on the remote have no affect on the lights, even after trying to program them per the instructions. Any hints? Something I'm missing? Is that channel only for servo control for 2speed trans/rear steer, etc and NOT for simple circuit power control?

Second question- the rear swaybar links hit the rear cage of the body when the suspension cycles. Anyone else run into this? Is there a simple fix I'm missing?

Otherwise, this thing is a ton of fun!

Thanks,

Ryan

[Tzicul]

Originally Posted by reklund5

The Ch.3 buttons on the remote have no affect on the lights, even after trying to program them per the instructions. Any hints? Something I'm missing? Is that channel only for servo control for 2speed trans/rear steer, etc and NOT for simple circuit power control?

You got it right, you'll need something like this

Dr. Mad Thrust series 3A BEC with Inbuilt Aux Controlled On/Off Switch for Accessories
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ff_Switch.html
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ff_Switch.html

[reklund5]

Originally Posted by Tzicul

You got it right, you'll need something like this

Dr. Mad Thrust series 3A BEC with Inbuilt Aux Controlled On/Off Switch for Accessories
Dr. Mad Thrust Electronic On/Off Switch
Dr. Mad Thrust 4ch Electronic On/Off Switch

Thanks for the info. I ordered one today, we'll see how it works out.

[dreadMoros]

Originally Posted by reklund5

Hey guys, new member here. I recently got a SCORE TT and have been having some fun with it. I have done a few simple mods, mainly just to the battery try to allow a big battery to fit. I added the Axial simple LED kit yesterday and have a couple questions. Since the kit came with 4 white and 2 red LEDS, I eliminated 2 of the front white lights and now just have headlights and taillights. The wiring was too short out of the box, so I lengthened the wiring and got it all working as it did before I cut it up. Lights are installed and look great, just need some better tape to secure the wiring and control board to the underside of the Lexan body. I read that I can use the 3rd channel of the remote to control the lights, but so far I haven't been able to get it to do anything. The lights come on when I turn on the main switch on the car, and stay on until I turn off the car. The Ch.3 buttons on the remote have no affect on the lights, even after trying to program them per the instructions. Any hints? Something I'm missing? Is that channel only for servo control for 2speed trans/rear steer, etc and NOT for simple circuit power control?

Second question- the rear swaybar links hit the rear cage of the body when the suspension cycles. Anyone else run into this? Is there a simple fix I'm missing?

Otherwise, this thing is a ton of fun!

Thanks,

Ryan

Hi Guys! I'm also new TT owner and this is my first RC overall so a lot to learn ;) Anyway wanted to address several things Ryan pointed out:
1. rear suspension in fact locks sometimes on roll cage - but i noticed this while truck is stationary, when going full throtle whole body moves a little back due to acceleration and this problem is not visible.
2. i noticed also that front suspension is a little too soft - at least it bottoms out very quickly despite lowering springs to minimum position. i dont know what to do: i wouldnt like to loose that soft suspension but hitting with chasis most of the time is not fun. Has anyone tried using longer shocks? How are those ProLine dual spring shocks? Are there any options for progressive springs?

Cheers!

[yellowdatsun]

Originally Posted by reklund5

Second question- the rear swaybar links hit the rear cage of the body when the suspension cycles. Anyone else run into this? Is there a simple fix I'm missing?
Ryan

It hits the cage when you press down on the top, distorting the shape. When it's on it's own it seems to be just fine. I took an x-acto knife and rounded the bottom edges of the roll cage a tiny bit, only because the truck, knife, workbench, and light, were all there and I was bored. In reality it won't matter, but if it makes you feel better just round the bottom edges, that seems to be the only place it rubs.

Axial puts out real quality stuff compared to a lot of other RC companies, so I'd be real surprised if they didn't notice it too, and if they had, took the steps to resolve it for production. I assume that if they think it's fine, it probably is.

[yellowdatsun]

Originally Posted by dreadMoros

2. i noticed also that front suspension is a little too soft - at least it bottoms out very quickly despite lowering springs to minimum position. i dont know what to do: i wouldnt like to loose that soft suspension but hitting with chasis most of the time is not fun. Has anyone tried using longer shocks? How are those ProLine dual spring shocks? Are there any options for progressive springs?
Cheers!

Real trophy trucks have very soft (comparatively) suspension, and can sit rather low depending on the race they're running. I got the T-Bone protectors for the front arms and chassis, since it was getting beat up here in the rocky AZ desert, and I didn't want to change it too make it higher either.

[SCREAMER]

Originally Posted by yellowdatsun

I also run the 20t pinion and stock spur, on 2s, and it's plenty fast. There's zero need to run this truck on 3s, regardless of what the reviewers have said. If you keep the stock pinion, then yeh, you'll need 3s to get speed. But I don't know why you wouldn't just change out a $5 pinion and call it good.

How about a cooler motor and longer run times. Adding a bunch of teeth to the pinion to get speed may be cheap and effective initially but could really cause problems with reliability down the road. Volt up, gear down isn't just a cool catch phrase. Just my 2 cents

[dreadMoros]

Originally Posted by yellowdatsun

Real trophy trucks have very soft (comparatively) suspension, and can sit rather low depending on the race they're running. I got the T-Bone protectors for the front arms and chassis, since it was getting beat up here in the rocky AZ desert, and I didn't want to change it too make it higher either.

Hi,

i agree 100% with it and thats why i've chosen Score TT Reason i asked was just to check what options i have. Droping it from about 30cm (1ft) causes front to hit ground. I know that front arms and front diff cover are hard plastic but it hurts every time i hear it ;) Anyway thanks for replies ;)

Cheers!

[SCREAMER]

That's called chassis slap and I hate it too.