Yeti Score RWD?

[Hypergarage]

Been wanting to do this for quite a while now. Just ordered another Yeti Score chassis and I'm curious on what I would need to do to convert it to RWD. Yes I know I could just take out the front driveshafts but I feel like that would mess up the gearing and eventually mess something big up, and this also begs the question... Would I go with a motor meant for 2wd or 4x4? Does anyone have any idea on how I could do this safely?

[OvrKll]

Don't see another way to go 2wd other than removing front diff and driveshaft. Also don't see any problems in doing so.
As for power , considering others have tried and found the Yeti difficult to drive if I where you I would look for 1/10 scale 2wd shortcourse powerplant, install the open diff in the rear axle and perhaps even consider a gyro Tx/Rx like Spektrum with AVC.

Perhaps also shift some weight to the back (ESC, BEC, light controller) inside the fuel cell for some more traction.

That's my 2 cents

Good luck and keep us posted!

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[donovanchew]

Definately stack the weight up on the back as I've just popped my stock front dogbone and it is pretty much undriveable as it is on RWD.

[Hypergarage]

Yes I've thought about problems with controllability and I'll probably just end up going with a less powerful motor and throw some weight on the back. The only reason I want to do this is because I want to make a Yeti Score that's as realistic as the 1/1 Score trucks. Which of course are RWD. I guess I'll just have to tune the weight as I go.

[donovanchew]

Let us know how that goes would love to see the progress

[Kapti]

Yes do it...... I think. I built my Yeti score kit as 2wd. Its great, although I never drove a 4wd so I cant tell you its better. I never installed any driveline from the tranfercase up. I even bulit spindles without drive cups for the front end. If you are in really soft sand you can get away with a locked rear. However if you are on loose hardpack you will not be able to do much without an a.v.c. type setup. One major improvement would be adding weight or moving weight to the rear. I moved my battery from stock location to the rear cage. I also have two braces that go from the rear cage behind the cage/body mount to the upper link mount on the chassis. Ill get a picture of that when I get my truck back, but here is one of the battery.


And the most important thing........do not get a smaller motor. You want to be able to go fast. I am running the sidewinder esc with a 3800 kv motor on 2s and I have it geared 25:54 and still not getting anything hot. If I had to do it again I would get a mamba with a 4600+ kv motor.

So to wrap it up in 2wd, if you must run locked rear you also must add weight to the rear, I recommend open rear diff though(as annoying as it is I run open even with battery over the axle). Put some weight over the axle(just a little in front of the axle is best so as to not lighten the front end). And put a high kv motor in it(or run 3s). You wont have control issues with it like this and it will be a blast.

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[Shinchu]

any progress on this?
i was going to start a new thread, considering changing up my Y-380 rock racer RTR (with mods) into a RWD TT/SCORE.

i have no interest in running the axial TT bodies, will either get a proline TT Raptor body, or if i can find it, a Jconcepts 79 ford for the slash (with shorter twin hammer rear links).

focus on mine would be just like the OP; as scale as possible! (and i realize my best shot is with a custom fabbed TT cage so maybe not THAT scale lol)
and i also realize its going to be a wild ride, but i plan on a gyro (just need another radiolink rx, my tx/rx combo is a 6ch gyro integrated set. nice for only $60!)