Axial 1/18 Yeti (and Yeti Score)

[colbynobo]

Originally Posted by Jrardon

Ive found that the steering linkages are tight and add to the drag. Next time you remove the servo linkage swing your steering and note how tight it is. Add subzero temps and that plastic would be even tighter. I've spun the ball ends with a ball and some graphite to try to loosen the steering. Helped a bit.

Okay, I've got a Hitec HS-5085 and aluminum spline on the way. The specs say twice the torque of my current servo. I'll try to fit the Savox 253 into my Latrax Rally so it doesn't go to waste.

I've been setting up little courses using random things found in the office as obstacles and I must say this thing is a blast to drive. I just need to get the steering more consistent and dial in the front shocks. Anyone with a Trophy Truck care to share what they're running for shock oil?

[Chris_K]

Well I discovered that you can modify scx10 shafts to fit the rear. Just have to cut to length and drill the hole for the pin. No more broken axle shafts.


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[hillbillyHILL]

Yeti score 5300kv Castle brushless 26mph 12t pinion

[Chris_K]

Originally Posted by hillbillyHILL

Yeti score 5300kv Castle brushless 26mph 12t pinion

2s?

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[Poprivet]

Originally Posted by Chris_K

Well I discovered that you can modify scx10 shafts to fit the rear. Just have to cut to length and drill the hole for the pin. No more broken axle shafts.


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Any slop in the diff side? Did you have any trouble drilling out for the pin?

[Poprivet]

I got my tie rods sorted out with some Associated Factory Team parts.
Titanium turnbuckles (fits RC18T) ------------- #21055
Blue aluminum ball studs (fits all RC18's) -- #21241 (x2)
Long ballcups (fits RC18T2) ----------------------- #21387

It's not the budget friendly version at around $50 total, but i have no fear of failure for sure.

[Chris_K]

Originally Posted by Poprivet

Any slop in the diff side? Did you have any trouble drilling out for the pin?

No the pin is a tight fit once the outer coller on the side gears. No trouble drilling them but you can't do it by hand. Just mill a small flat, peck it with the center drill and then drill it with a 5/64" or #47 bit. I still need to find some permanent bearings to use, right now I just have some small traxxas bearings pressed in the stock ones. Forgot to measure the thickness so if anybody knows what it is I'd like to know.

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[im2tall]

Got mine a couple of hours ago,and read all the complaints about electronics not working! I said it more than likely won't happen to me! Well I was wrongit showed up about 3hrs ago,and already has a 7200kv!

[colbynobo]

Originally Posted by im2tall

Got mine a couple of hours ago,and read all the complaints about electronics not working! I said it more than likely won't happen to me! Well I was wrongit showed up about 3hrs ago,and already has a 7200kv!

I like how we all think we're going to be the exception. I thought the same thing right up until the point the servo stopped moving. I take it that even with servo upgrades people still find that it's not wide enough to allow an ESC mounted on top to clear the driveshaft?

[monkeyracer]

My stock electronics probably still work. I took them out after the first battery, but they worked at that point. Seems a lot didn't even make it that far.

[hillbillyHILL]

Originally Posted by Chris_K

2s?

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Yah 2s..didn't even get warm might up the pinion but damn it's hard to drive. Way top heavy and does 15 cart wheels if it hooks.

[Lavaheadache]

Originally Posted by Chris_K

Well I discovered that you can modify scx10 shafts to fit the rear. Just have to cut to length and drill the hole for the pin. No more broken axle shafts.


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That's awesome man!!!! might have to go this route.

[SCREAMER]

Chris K, nice job on the rear shafts. It's just my personal opinion but I would wait until we have a stronger locker or diff solution for the rear axle before doing this mod though. Having these steel shafts in the rear which are undoubtedly the strongest part of the entire truck now will guarantee that rear differential will shred itself to pieces in no time. Once the entire rear axle is beefed up that puts the "fuse" point on the rear plastic dogbone driveshaft and that would be a cheap and simple fix requiring no tools and you could keep a couple spares on hand.

[SCREAMER]

Thanks again to the guys that posted up info on these Team Associated Ti turnbuckles. For $23 shipped, I love this mod. Plenty of much needed adjustability, less slop in the steering, much higher strength, and only 1 gram of added weight total compared to the 4 plastic pushrods replaced. They also look fantastic compared to the stockers. Little things like this make the car look not so budget.

[colbynobo]

Originally Posted by monkeyracer

My stock electronics probably still work. I took them out after the first battery, but they worked at that point. Seems a lot didn't even make it that far.

Monkeyracer, since you also live in Colorado/Crawlerado and thus have to deal with the exact same weather, I'm curious as to whether you've also experienced cold-related steering issues with your original and upgraded electronics? I started off running a pack last night in my garage and the steering was fine, then I ran out into the driveway where it was 40 degrees and raining - after a few minutes the steering started to get stiff again. I then went down into my basement where everything returned to normal. The other difference here is that the basement floor is polished concrete so there's not a lot of traction and load on the tires when they're turning.

[Brake Weight]

I ordered a 24mm 3000kV sensorless motor from China/Singapore/Hong King to try out. With a low kV motor the pinion options are more usable instead of just hauling ass, warp speed, and sumbeach look at that go.

[Chris_K]

Originally Posted by SCREAMER

Chris K, nice job on the rear shafts. It's just my personal opinion but I would wait until we have a stronger locker or diff solution for the rear axle before doing this mod though. Having these steel shafts in the rear which are undoubtedly the strongest part of the entire truck now will guarantee that rear differential will shred itself to pieces in no time. Once the entire rear axle is beefed up that puts the "fuse" point on the rear plastic dogbone driveshaft and that would be a cheap and simple fix requiring no tools and you could keep a couple spares on hand.

The diff should be plenty strong in stock form, I'm more worried about the center driveshaft next since it's the only plastic shaft left in mine. The replacement shafts from axial are $28 and I only have time plus 20 bucks for these.

I ran it some today and didn't have any problem. Biggest problem I have now is ballooning the tires and flipping.

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[DenisLM]

It's about time to have the Yeti 1/18 forum/folder. it's getting hard to search for older posts here...

[84yoda]

I see why castle suggested 13-16t pinions. I picked up the 9-12t pinions hoping I could use the 10t and only the 12t pinion will work. Pinions fit so tight on the castle motor shaft too, its ridiculous. Not a fan of the TINY screw on these losi pinions either.

[Lavaheadache]

Originally Posted by 84yoda

I see why castle suggested 13-16t pinions. I picked up the 9-12t pinions hoping I could use the 10t and only the 12t pinion will work. Pinions fit so tight on the castle motor shaft too, its ridiculous. Not a fan of the TINY screw on these losi pinions either.

.

I'm using the 10t without issue. What seems to be your trouble? Like you, I'm also not a fan of the set screw. Unnecessarily small.