Yeti Jr. upgrades

[the.ronin]

Hope you don't mind, Jboucher but I took your idea of using the Holmes Revolver 350 and paired it with a Mamba Micro X (crawler edition but turns out thats mostly just marketing ... and bigger bullet connectors lol).

Man it runs PERFECT. Exactly how I want it to run. And that's before I've even got the Castle Link so I can fine tune it a bit more. I do get what you mean about the noise. The motors do emit this pitch that I have never heard before in a brushless motor. I don't mind it at all though for the low throttle resolution. Thanks man!

[Jboucher]

Dis you use the stock pinion?

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[the.ronin]

I did! And temps are perfectly fine so far (120F-ish max using a IR thermometer).

Just a heads up it comes with tiny bullet connectors (2mm?) not the standard 3.5. And the Mamba Micro X comes with 4mm lol.

[edit] I should caveat though that I dont really use this for rock crawling. I use this as a surface FPV platform just to drive around the park and have fun. My Yeti Jr is heavier than most since its carrying a Runcam Split HD camera, video transmitter, OSD, GPS, and even a torn down walkie talkie receiver lol. Yes, I have 3 frequencies either broadcasting or receiving on this little thing LOL.

[Lugnutt]

Originally Posted by the.ronin

I did! And temps are perfectly fine so far (120F-ish max using a IR thermometer).

Just a heads up it comes with tiny bullet connectors (2mm?) not the standard 3.5. And the Mamba Micro X comes with 4mm lol.

[edit] I should caveat though that I dont really use this for rock crawling. I use this as a surface FPV platform just to drive around the park and have fun. My Yeti Jr is heavier than most since its carrying a Runcam Split HD camera, video transmitter, OSD, GPS, and even a torn down walkie talkie receiver lol. Yes, I have 3 frequencies either broadcasting or receiving on this little thing LOL.

nice, that is an interesting setup.
That sucks about the shocks, did anyone think of using 1:10th scale shocks (90mm) like the proline dualrates. that is probably what i will use for the rear and stock for the front

[Lugnutt]

tell me if you can see these



These are parts i made to shorten the wheelbase using a 60mm dogbone for the yeti

[the.ronin]

I cannot see the images. Just placeholders.

[Lugnutt]

what about this? (It may be small)

[Lugnutt]

also can someone post detailed pics of the arm flip mod

[SlidePanda]

Yes, can see the small image of the part

[Jboucher]

No need for complex designs
The stock trailing arms and A-Frame rear link is fine for speed runs.
The hot racing trailing arms and real 4-link uppers are best for Crawling and trails.

Boom done

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[Lugnutt]

Originally Posted by Jboucher

No need for complex designs
The stock trailing arms and A-Frame rear link is fine for speed runs.
The hot racing trailing arms and real 4-link uppers are best for Crawling and trails.

Boom done

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i made these to shorten the wheelbase 17mm so one could use a 60mm dogbone/driveshaft

[Lugnutt]

other two. they are the same, but one for the left and one for the right

[Lugnutt]

Gpm has a bunch more new parts

[Deadbydawn]

Originally Posted by slidepanda

finally got the light project done.

Fussier than i'd thought at the outset... So many tiny tiny wires.

A couple mis-steps during routing/securing things. On the bench, i didn't realize how close the shock towers sat to the cage. So i'd run the wires down the cage tubes and secured/hid them with some shrink tube. Looked great, nice and hidden... Totally didn't clear the shock towers. So i had to cut that all clear and refactor.

Stripping the tiny wires was a hassle... The red would strip, the black tended to just pull a bit of the wire off when i tired. So there i ended up just burning off the insulation with the soldering iron for each black lead.

Wired it all up to a jst lead so i can power it off the battery, and i'll make a 9v adaptor for unlimited power (!) later.

I used a suite of 6-12v square leds from here: https://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/p...mm-square-leds

5x white
2x red
2x yellow
1x flashing yellow
bunch of shrink tubes and zap goo.

The 6-12v ones come with a voltage reducer wired into each that made them a touch more bulky. Nothing epic, but if you really wanted super clean wiring, you'd buy the 3v ones and just do a single step down, or even just use a coin cell to supply the power. But i was going for easier as a first time doing a project like this.

Photos from the project
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6144jafvgmrafgyq8


finished product:

awesome!!

[Lugnutt]

This thread has been so dead recently, it is kind of sad. i will be posting soon with updates about mine, because it has been nearly a year since i got it.

[Jboucher]

Mine is still the same as it was 2 years ago
Never broke more than 1 front wheel shaft and 2 open diffs until I went full lock front and rear.

My issue is the body. My old rock racer body is beaten to death (4 year old son drives it) and I can't find any replacement.

The new maverick Can-am body dosent fit either...

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[Lugnutt]

Originally Posted by Jboucher

Mine is still the same as it was 2 years ago
Never broke more than 1 front wheel shaft and 2 open diffs until I went full lock front and rear.

My issue is the body. My old rock racer body is beaten to death (4 year old son drives it) and I can't find any replacement.

The new maverick Can-am body dosent fit either...

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Baja bug? (I want to do this body on mine)
https://www.eurorc.com/product/18118...i-rock-crawler

[Jboucher]

Originally Posted by Lugnutt

Baja bug? (I want to do this body on mine)

https://www.eurorc.com/product/18118...i-rock-crawler

Yeah...
It would cost 35$euro which is close to 60$canadian...

But I wonder if there is a list of bodies that could fit the jr rock racer wheelbase?

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[odomandr]

I put a newbright Polaris body on my original yeti Jr score. I'd pick up another score truck if anyone has one to let go of

[dhimester]

Hey y’all, just wanted to share my yeti jr with a new bright Polaris general body!






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