Another 1st world problem. Which aluminium bell crank?
 

My next upgrade is going to be replacing the flexy Axial plastic bell crank and I'm torn between the STRC and the Vanquish offerings. I've used STRC parts before on a Traxxas Slash 4x4 and liked them a lot. I've also been very happy with the few Vanquish parts I've bought so far. I'm leaning towards the STRC one only because I'm a little unsure about doing away with the servo saver. Is this concern unfounded because of the lower speeds involved.

Re: Another 1st world problem. Which aluminium bell crank?
 

i've ordered the hot racing steering option:
Hot Racing Axial Yeti RC Car upgrades and Hop-ups
they also have a non adj. version and a carbon fibre ballcranck.

Re: Another 1st world problem. Which aluminium bell crank?
 

The HR one is the only option if you want to keep the servo saver.

Is it crucial to keep it?

Re: Another 1st world problem. Which aluminium bell crank?
 

If you bash around it's nice to have one and for trail/light crawling it's nice to not have one. and as i try to make my little monster to be capable to do both, also reason for the 2 speed option, i like the hr solution.
i will see how it comes out.

Re: Another 1st world problem. Which aluminium bell crank?
 

I was hesitant to order this version, as the Amazon reviews said it didn't work well with the plastic steering posts, but I see in your link that they do have a package that includes new aluminum posts. I have just ordered that one from the LHS.

Re: Another 1st world problem. Which aluminium bell crank?
 

I didn't know that theres a version without. But not sure if I will use them one mine, cause i have the kit version which came already with upgraded posts, I will see how all fit together and decide then.
The non adjustable have bigger bearings on the button side.

sent by magic_yeti :)

Re: Another 1st world problem. Which aluminium bell crank?
 

Pretty sure the STRC one has a servo saver. As for it being crucial that's part of my question. I think I would feel a bit better with one on this car.

This is my next upgrade as well. Torn between STRC and VP. Leaning towards VP right now. Will watch this thread and see what more experienced members have to say.
So what did you end up going with? I am leaning towards VP right now.

Re: Another 1st world problem. Which aluminium bell crank?
 

If you replace the steering posts, the steering rack and links, you may not need to change the bell cranks? I don't really care if I have a servo saver but If you do want one, plastic works better than aluminum. Two pieces of aluminum do not "slip" well if they have any amount of pressure on them and they will gaul up after a while. Did you every use the aluminum slipper plates that axial supplied in the yeti and or yeti xl? They don't slip well at all, and I think most people swapped them out for the normal "fabric" or whatever they are made from. You may experience the same thing with the servo saver in an aluminum bell crank. Just my thoughts, either have a blast driving that rig

Re: Another 1st world problem. Which aluminium bell crank?
 

The left bell crank is only an idler, so not much to gain there, but the right side is the servo saver. whether the flex is in the bell cranks arms or in the spring (or combination) I'd like to have better control over it, as offered by the HR design.

I did fabricate a .125" shim and put it under the (rusty and now oily and rusty) bellcrank spring, and this tightened the stock assembly nicely, but I can still see flex in the rack. And, if I upgrade the rack, I will need some of that servo saver back. Less rusty than the stock one, preferably.:)
I am aware of the stiction issues with polyurethane and Delrin, but not with aluminum in this application. I don't think the slipper clutch analogy is valid as there is much more wear and tear on a slipper clutch as compared to a servo saver.

I expect it will work well enough if it is kept lubed up.

Re: Another 1st world problem. Which aluminium bell crank?
 

The hr uses brass bushing in the bellcranks where they attach to the rack and they get sloppy quick, like less then a week quick. The slop was worse then the stock plastic but at least it didn't flex. I only used this until vp released theirs.

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...psrdw0eixh.jpg

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...psgrun9yp4.jpg

Re: Another 1st world problem. Which aluminium bell crank?
 

Mine is a kit so I already have the metal posts. The flex is in the drag link. It's likely to get worse as the weight goes up and I add tires with better traction. I used a STRC bell crank in my Slash 4x4 and the aluminum servo saver never gave me problems there. This thing is going to be geared down pretty well so it's not going to be super fast but will probably be heavy when it's done.
I don't know. I'm back and forth on it lol. What ever I do I'm doing it tomorrow.

Re: Another 1st world problem. Which aluminium bell crank?
 

Strc

Re: Another 1st world problem. Which aluminium bell crank?
 

Thanks for the heads up. Perhaps they can be rebushed. Still, I am not quite prepared to give up the servo saver feature at this point.

What does VP use for bushings?

Re: Another 1st world problem. Which aluminium bell crank?
 

No bushings.

Re: Another 1st world problem. Which aluminium bell crank?
 

Bolt threads are directly against the aluminum, and when the aluminum wears, you replace the entire bellcrank?

Re: Another 1st world problem. Which aluminium bell crank?
 

If you want to keep the saver go strc if you don't want the saver go with the VP. I've seen some clearance issues with the STRC rack but nothing a lil work with a dremel won't easily take care of.

Re: Another 1st world problem. Which aluminium bell crank?
 

Mine has been installed since early September '14 and has no wear, same as day one.

Re: Another 1st world problem. Which aluminium bell crank?
 

Got the STRC. No issues at all. Fit like the stocker.

Re: Another 1st world problem. Which aluminium bell crank?
 

Finally received the HR package. New posts, bearings, rack, and bellcranks to replace the RTR plastic rack and posts without bearings.

There was a tiny bit of interference under the nose of the front differential, so I clearanced that a touch. I backed off the servo saver until there was a bit of movement in it.

I also had to slightly clearance the side of the tierod endlinks at the rack to allow for clearance at full droop. I expect that this is because the graphite material is thicker and wider than the aluminum versions.

The rest of it fit together perfectly, tightens the steering up nicely, and seems to be of good quality. The bushings look easy to replace if they give me trouble.

And for those concerned about adding weight to an already nose-heavy truck, the change from the all-plastic RTR setup was only +10 grams. :D