From the "tub up"

[magic_yeti]

Originally Posted by 84yoda

Last piece on the right, you should have 2.

I had tons of problems with my slipper setup on the YXL, and it uses the same slipper parts. The fix was a robinson racing yeti gen 3 slipper set up.

No only one is used, on the trans side, of the vented plates you mention in the 1/10. in the pic it say's 2 peaces picture is correctly showing only one like the parts list in the first part of the manual. called my lhs cause only one was in my kit. it's an error in the manual even the optional came in 2 pcs pack maybe that's the difference to the yxl.

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[84yoda]

I just checked the yeti manual and it does only use one, weird.

And yes the slipper pads needs to stick to the spur gear. That's the problem.

[Antsiranean]

I am glad I am following this thread, since I didn't know the slipper pads were supposed to be taped to the spur gear. I did the whole motor assembly two days ago, and now have to remove the spur gear and fix this thing. To my great surprise I find that I can't remove the spur gear without either removing the chassis top brace, or the whole motor assembly. Lots of screws for a simple spur gear change, right? Or am I missing something?

[magic_yeti]

Depends. It could be made only with dismounting the spur cover.
Little tricky to get it out with the brace mounted but possible.

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[Cheez]

Originally Posted by magic_yeti

On the back of the slipper pad is a doubletape. You have not glued the slipper pads to the spur.

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Thanks guys for following my problems.
It was a lame oversight ( no flaming plz) I’ve “stuck “ the slipper pads to the spur, still no go. I’m still struggling with post surgery issues, so time spent on it is minimal right now. So close to being finished, darn slipper clutch
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/attac...1&d=1509928731
This is what’s in my manual. I’m using the optional parts.

[Cheez]

Originally Posted by 84yoda

Last piece on the right, you should have 2.

I had tons of problems with my slipper setup on the YXL, and it uses the same slipper parts. The fix was a robinson racing yeti gen 3 slipper set up.

Is it really a problem solver? If I can’t get this problem solved I’m considering totally disassembling, but common sense and logic ( which I’m short on right now ) says it’s a fixable mechanical issue. The spur spins but not the transmission shaft. I may just go ahead and get RR gen 3 if you highly recommend.
Btw, I have 2 YXL’s one kit one rtr ,and an upgraded rtr yeti.... zero clutch problems.

[magic_yeti]

if you spin the trans input shaft do the t-case output shaft spin?
the spur rotation will be transferred to the input shaft by the vented and the other 2 slipper plates check if its working if you spin these.
if not some thing in the trans is wrong. if you have 2-speed check that a gear is in.

[Cheez]

Originally Posted by magic_yeti

if you spin the trans input shaft do the t-case output shaft spin?
the spur rotation will be transferred to the input shaft by the vented and the other 2 slipper plates check if its working if you spin these.
if not some thing in the trans is wrong. if you have 2-speed check that a gear is in.

Yes, I believe I mentioned it earlier, the transmission input shaft moves freely and easily both directions in both gears moving the wheels.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/attac...1&d=1509990699

[shiftauto]

Do you have a different spur/slipper combo you can install to test with? The slipper is a pretty basic setup and shouldnt take this much diagnosis. I’d also do all the spin testing from the spur side and not the wheels. Manually rotate the spur, do the outputs rotate, do the wheels rotate? Can you post a video of your testing? There’s probably something small that we are all overlooking. @ this point you may want to disassemble the trans/2 speed and do it over again. Does the input shaft have any play in it? In/out up/down side/side etc?

[shiftauto]

Spin things one @ a time while installing too. Vented plate, spin manually, check that the center hole of the plate has the flats is properly engaged and is oblongged or anything. Hope that makes sense...

[shiftauto]

This may be a dumb question but I’ll throw it out there. Are you supposed to be running a bearing in the center of your spur gear instead of the little plastic bushing that normally goes in that spot? I know my Gen 3 has a bearing there but I’m not sure if it’s necessary or possibly a bad thing on the gear you’re using.

[magic_yeti]

Originally Posted by shiftauto

This may be a dumb question but I’ll throw it out there. Are you supposed to be running a bearing in the center of your spur gear instead of the little plastic bushing that normally goes in that spot? I know my Gen 3 has a bearing there but I’m not sure if it’s necessary or possibly a bad thing on the gear you’re using.

i installed a bearing right at the start, never used the plastic spacer. no problems. the spur has to spin freely without slipper engaged. so using a bearing is an improvement. if i used this instead of a quality bearing it would be melted before the plastic spur does

[shiftauto]

Just wasn’t sure. I’ve run my rig on 3S 19/64 gearing with the plastic spur and bushing forever and never had an issue with it. I only ran into heat issues with that gearing. Cheez’s issue has me perplexed big time.

[Cheez]

Just went through the whole process again, this time removed motor and put back, gear mesh is fine. Once again With spur removed I can spin transmission shaft in both gears and everything rotates smooth and at the same time I can spin wheels both directions in both gears and transmission shaft spins smoothly. Installed clutch per manual and when I manually spin the spur both directions the wheels rotate. When I apply power the #*@# spur just spins. WTF!
Giving up on it... Robinson Racing Gen3 Slipper Unit 64T Spur w/Ridged Hub is ordered. Gives me time to recover from surgery anyway.
It’s a no budget project anyway, probably should have gone this route to begin with.
Hopefully someone out there has a solution for this particular problem and will share with the community.

[84yoda]

Good choice.

A few things after you get it installed and go for a spin, tighten the nut down tight, its going to slip and break in, which is good but at the same time, the spur gets stupid hot and could toast the bearing, it gets that hot. So keep the spur cover off, take it for some hard pulls and keep the nut locked down, as it breaks in the nut can be tighten even more. After it stops slipping with the nut tight means its broken in and you can slowly back the nut off a hair while doing some more pulls till you like the slip. Then your good to go.

[Cheez]

I’m a little more focused now...
The RR Gen 3 gave me grief at first but I got it working
Entire drive train is running smoothly in both gears (bench test on stand)
When shifting it’s not engaging every time, I’ve read that is a common problem with 2 speed transmission when new.
I think my end points are good but the Servo is getting pretty hot.
SSD 2 speed transmission owners help me out here.... should the Servo (Tactic TSX55) get hot at all?

[DavidH]

Originally Posted by Cheez

I’m a little more focused now...
The RR Gen 3 gave me grief at first but I got it working
Entire drive train is running smoothly in both gears (bench test on stand)
When shifting it’s not engaging every time, I’ve read that is a common problem with 2 speed transmission when new.

If you are rolling (and you should be) it should engage very time; keep in mind that the transmission is not using a clutch or syncros, so it may be a 'notchy' engagement.

I think my end points are good but the Servo is getting pretty hot.
SSD 2 speed transmission owners help me out here.... should the Servo (Tactic TSX55) get hot at all?

I'm guessing that you have a fairly new radio system.

I don't see this listed as a 'digital' servo, so you should unplug it immediately.

Many of the newer radio receivers will run analog servos but the servo, in trying to keep up with the finer resolution of the new receivers, will overheat and die in short order.

You will want to use a tactic '47 or '57. Or something better than tactic . Something waterproof, at least.

[Cheez]

Originally Posted by DavidH

If you are rolling (and you should be) it should engage very time; keep in mind that the transmission is not using a clutch or syncros, so it may be a 'notchy' engagement.

I'm guessing that you have a fairly new radio system.

I don't see this listed as a 'digital' servo, so you should unplug it immediately.

Many of the newer radio receivers will run analog servos but the servo, in trying to keep up with the finer resolution of the new receivers, will overheat and die in short order.

You will want to use a tactic '47 or '57. Or something better than tactic . Something waterproof, at least.

Great info! Thanks! I’ll use the 55 till it dies then go with the ‘57

[Cheez]

Originally Posted by Lavaheadache

I don't know what you had trouble with using the rpm cage. That is precisely how I have my MMX mounted in my Yeti. Works perfect. Everything lines up without issue. I might have had to shave the corner of it like roach said, can't remember.

I’m gonna give the RPM cage a second chance (hey what’s another 10 bucks)based on your post. My first one the holes didn’t line up at all. Hopefully the one on its way will work.
I should be able to finish up this project within a week or so

[Cheez]

Getting closer...
Still a couple of minor issues, got an off balance/ wobbling right front wheel ....
Waiting on the back order interior and a second body that I’ll paint.
Considering 18/64 ratio
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/attac...1&d=1510622571